Andrew in Austin

<p>That's the rub - these Ukrainian Rembrandt wannabees always seem to need a full service.</p>

<p>With regards to 60 year non-coated filters, this is what can happen when you point the camera into the sun.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/AgfaRec/CO_09_BW002.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="475" /></p>

<p>Curve on Molas Pass, Colorado</p>

<p>Bill, I'm without a film scanner - I have to scan prints instead.<br /> Go to http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/AgfaRec/AgfaRecord.html <br /> The first two that are posted show what is essentially a progressive crop of the same image.<br>

The color images are from a Big Fuji RF.<br /> <img src="http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/AgfaRec/CO_09_BW005.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="478" /></p>

<p>Self portrait in front of the Sangre de Cristo range.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Let's see if I can include an image of a Record III and a Super Speedex.</p><div></div>

<p>Back in the day, one of the main benefits of the never-ready case was to provide a neck strap. Most of those cases and straps are at least 60 years past their prime. I wouldn't trust the stitching or neck strap on one.<br>

<br /> A medium format folder in a belt pouch - provided that it is large enough for a compact kit - is a nice way to keep everything organized in one place.<br>

<br /> It's still a never-ready case - but a setting up a MF folder for that first exposure isn't exactly point and shoot photography. A folder requires a series deliberate steps before obtaining that first exposure.</p>

<p>I've been through a few medium format folders. After about six months of ownership, I sold my Super Ikonta IV. I still have the Perkeo II for hikes, although I like the Zeiss Tessar better. - It's sort of a Rollei 35 for medium format.</p>

<p>Leitz didn't make either a 34mm screw in filter or a lens hood - but Canon certainly did for their 100/3.5.</p>

<p>I'm with Steve Smith on this. If you can, just print directly through the negative onto photographic paper.</p>

<p>I'm limited by my darkroom to an 11" by 14" print, which looks splendid when mounted and framed.</p>

<p>A36 signifies slip-on filter and hoods, with 36mm being the outer diameter of the front filter ring.</p>

<p>The inner diameter of the filter ring is 34mm. Measure it.</p>

<p>Mukul - the old screw mount 9cm that you have takes 34mm screw in hoods and filters - definitely not 39mm.</p>

<p>Nope, the engravings are the worst part of this cobbled together camera. This wasn't put together at Wetzlar.</p>

<p>Below is my Leica II - Note the different shutter speed dial and winder knob. It also doesn't have the middle screw on the top cover - which on your camera is above the lens.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/rff/LeicaII.jpg" alt="" width="590" height="458" /></p>

<p>Upon further research, at least some early FED 1 cameras had a notched surround on the front VF window - just above the access screw for adjusting the rangefinder..</p>

<p>http://www.sovietcams.com/index.php?414372438</p>

<p>The top cover look to be a Zorki 1, as does the shutter speed dial. The front VF window looks to be the real deal for a Leica II.</p>

<p>http://www.russianplaza.com/Zorki%20I%201%202%203%204%205%206%20C%20M%202.htm</p>

<p>Plus, the camera body has lugs to attach a camera strap - which the original Leica II lacked.</p>

<p>Louis - I just had glimpse of your gallery. I must say, it's very impressive.</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/photo/6798114</p>

<p>A wonderful presentation for a very deserving LTM 35mm rangefinder. The innovative variable, 50/100/135 focal length viewfinder developed by Canon deserves another mention.</p>

<p>It's awesome that you have such a full system of lenses and accessories for the IIF2. For example: I used to have a Canon P and was never able to acquire the tripod attachment that centered the lens with the head of the tripod. You have both the tripod attachment and its case.</p>

<p>As for the lens signature when shot wipe open, just go with the flow. My modern AF lens for my digital Nikon aren't that sharp or contrasty in the corners wide open and they vignette by at least an f/stop.</p>

<p>Thanks Joe - I may not post very often, but I do a daily quick read.</p>

<p>I never seen a Taron before much less two - the photography in this post is wonderful. </p>

<p>Thanks for sharing it with us.</p>

<p>If I had to only keep two exposures - they would be number 6 and 8. Both will be cherished in the years to come.</p>

<p>Before I clicked the the title of this thread, I thought this was going to be another thread portraying a camera someone picked up at a thrift store. </p>

<p>Derek - My personal preference would be to send in a replacement shutter and lens for repairs that weren't swimmers.</p>

<p>Although, you may need to change the lens boards as well for different shutter/lens combination - keep eye posted for Xenars, if you happen to be on a budget. </p>

<p>If not, Fujinons, Symmars and Sironars either in Copal or Compur shutters are the next step up. Caltars are another.</p>

<p>Kelly - that's an excellent price for a Speed "23". I just picked up a Crown "23" with a 105mm Xenar, 6x9 back and a Grafmatic for under a $150 shipped.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Dave; the 2x3 Speed with Graphic 22 back and 101mm Ektar here was 65 bucks off of Ebay three months ago ; about 74 with shipping. It shoots a fine image; but is just the 12 shot 6x6cm format. Now I search for a 2x3 roll back that is cheap; they go for twice my combos pric</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The Ektar is a nice Tessar equivalent - but the Flash Synchro shutters are showing there age, as am I. The 2x3 Graflex cameras are a bit cumbersome for travel purposes, especially a two monther.</p>

<p>Tom - looking at your first post, I have to recommend either a manual focusing Mamiya or Pentax 645 SLR. Both have a tempting assortment of lenses to lighten your wallet - if you choose to go that route. You can go the AF route with an SLR - if that is your cup of tea. </p>

<p>Whatever gear you take - do take time to familiarize yourself with your choice long before you head out for two months.</p>

<p>For a custom cut piece of ground glass type into ePay's search field the following -> custom sized dof adapter screen hand ground glass</p>

<p>I also have trouble with one section of the split prism going dark when I'm looking through the viewing camera. You need to adjust your eye. Try turning your head sideways. Also, you may need two desk lamps. Each mounted about 30 degrees from the center line from opposite sides of the film gate.</p>

<p>I place the two lenses within an inch of each other and make sure the front of the two lenses are parallel with each other.</p>

<p>The focus ring with the printed distance scale must be removed from the front cell of the lens when setting the lens to infinity focus. </p>

<p>There should be three retaining screws on the focus ring that need to be backed out, but not totally unscrewed. Try re-installing the focus ring at the 30 foot mark and then rotate the ring so that the infinity mark lines. Be care not to move the lens when doing this.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The next image shows that the lens is not quite focusing at infinity correctly - but it is almost there.</p><div></div>

<p>The State Hospital where I live is on land so valuable that much of it has been redeveloped into a shopping center with condominiums and heart hospital on the old grounds. Some of it is still used as detention center for alcohol rehab. Most of its former tenants now live on our streets.</p>

<p>This photo shows a Voigtlander Bessa having its infinity focus being checked.</p><div></div>

<p>Zeng - When doing a back sighting infinity check, the surface of the target screen has to rest flat against the film plane and the markings on the target screen must face towards the lens of the camera being checked.</p>

<p>With the back sighting method - the target is placed on the camera with lens to be tested - not the viewing camera. Then a light source is placed behind the lens/camera being tested. The viewing camera needs to be an SLR with a long focal length lens that has a fast 2.8 aperture if it is a 135 to 180mm.</p>

<p>For those that are not familiar with the back sighting method, see the following web page: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49683</p>

<p>For a target screen, I take an old, CLEAR, plastic CD jewel case and cut a a rectangular piece to cover the film gate. With the metal point from a drafting compass and the help of metal ruler, I scratch thin lines into the plastic that end up in a grid pattern. - Each etched line need be only be the width of a human hair. -</p>

<p>When you set the camera that is being tested upon a tripod, you will need to angle a desk lamp so that it is about 30 to 45 degrees from target screen. Then set up your viewing camera on another tripod with its long and hopefully fast telephoto. The whole set up is essentially the world's most cumbersome microscope and target is your microscope slide - provided that you have access to a long enough viewing lens on your SLR.</p>

<p>If you have a piece of ground glass already cut to size, use it. Place the shiny side towards the film gate, which is toward the lens being tested. Use a permanent marker to draw your grid pattern onto the shiny side of the glass. I use an ultra fine point marker to draw my grid.</p>

<p>The nice thing about having a cut-to-size piece of ground glass is that you can flip it over, so that the frosted side of the glass faces the lens and with a 4X magnifier loupe, take the camera outside to verify that the infinity focus is set properly. </p>

<p>A second final check can be done indoors with a single filament light bulb in clear glass, which allows you to see how well the camera focuses indoors at 3 meters, which is 10 feet in my workroom. It's essential to have a nice 4x to 6x magnifier.</p>

<p>One final note, a proper ground glass is not the plastic fresnel screens found in most modern cameras. </p>

<p> </p>