blueviews

<p>This is indeed quite lovely, but most of it was not shot while diving but rather in aquaria. <br>

The fluorescence stuff is very nice.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>I think a lot depends on what you shoot and how you want to shoot it. If you are in to older lenses and can manual focus then the Nex-7 might be better for you, the EVF I think is better than the OM-D and the larger sensor is a definite plus. If you need autofocus lenses and a variety of them then MFT is the winner here (and of the mft bodies I think the OM-D is the best IQ). I shoot mostly underwater and had a NEX system but sold it to buy the OM-D since the lenses I need (macro mostly) are not available in NEX yet.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>The underwater mode in most digital P&S cameras doesn't do as much white balancing as removing the apparent extra blue in most photos not taken with strobes.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>Depends on how you are set up. Look at the bullets shooting through the apple. That was shot on B with NO background light. If you have no background light then the strobe duration is what stops motion.</p>

<p>Bill</p>

<p>The inexpensive $10 readers on USB 2.0 are deadly slow compared to the card and compared to the firewire reader. Depends on your computer system. If you have an express card port that is the way to go. If not then firewire. If you have neither then you might be stuck.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>The Selphy printers from Canon are the way to go. Great output, comparable to lab prints. The 20 cents/copy is a bit of a stretch, 36 sheets with ink is $11 plus shipping from B&H so more like 35 cents each. The printers are about $75 but really work well. We use them to make UW photo prints right after a dive, right out of the camera.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>It is a bit hard to tell since the luminance NR in the 3 beta is greyed out, but overall I think the IQ is considerably better. Different than c1 1.4 (I don't use 1.5) but I think a bit nicer.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>While the new iPhoto is OK, I think it is not even in the same league as Lightroom/Aperture. What part of lightroom didn't you like? Most of the underwater guys I know with 10s of thousands of photos love lightroom or aperture, no one is using iPhoto as far as I know. To me, iPhoto is a good way to get a slideshow up and running quickly but in lightroom I can do all the adjustments to any photo I want.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>Why don't you shoot in manual mode. Manual will let you shoot at whatever aperture you want for DOF and the shutter speed can be set as high as Nikon thinks they can make it sync.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>Unfortunately, insane is only one of the adjectives that apply. For the Subal housing the magnifying finder is $1000 or more. I have both the 180 degree and the 45 degree Inon finders and they are quite nice but not cheap. One less expensive option is from<br>

<a href="http://www.plongimage.com/product_info.php?cPath=148&products_id=1081">http://www.plongimage.com/product_info.php?cPath=148&products_id=1081</a><br>

Bill</p>

<p>Yoshio: I often make 16 x 20 inch prints from both 5D and 40D raw files. Upres in either photoshop or genuine fractals and print at 360 ppi. Patrick, while you might not see much difference between 200 and 300 ppi, I think I can see a difference between 200 and 360 printed on an Epson 4800. Of course, I am mostly printing underwater macro subjects so I think it is all about tonal variation in your pic whether or not you can see big differences.<br>

Bill</p>

<p>Every time I have been there lots of folks with tripods. Reflectors and such are gently discouraged but we did a class there with no hassles for the "photographers" as such. I would love to come but the 21st is too late, going diving to Indonesia on the 20th. The 14th would work.<br>

B</p>

<p>Bruce: The short answer is no. Your 16-35 zoom is a canon lens (or sigma or tokina etc) It already mounts to your 5d correct? The shift tilt adapter is for attaching medium format lenses with a different mount, the Pentacon mount. Those lenses ad JDM say are for medium format cameras, so you get just a bit of tilt. That being said, they work fine. I don't believe that you could build an adapter that lets you mount a canon lens in it to convert the canon lens to shift/tilt. By the way, the hartblei adapter I have isn't shift tilt but rather shift only, it moves in only one dimension.<br>

CHeers<br>

Bill</p>

<p>You will have by far better options if you house the 450D. The Sea and Sea is a nice housing as is the Ikelite, and by going that route you have a natural upgrade path since the ports and strobes for the 450 D housing will be useful if you upgrade cameras. Wetpixel is a good recommendation. To see some pics from housed Canon cameras go to<br>

www.blueviews.net<br>

thanks<br>

Bill</p>

<p>You have multiple choices. There are battery powered packs for both the acute and Pro line, however none are 2400 w-s and you can use the battery ones plugged in to keep them charging. The acute battery pack (of course you can use it indoors) is 600 ws. If you need more power than 1200 ws then you need to have the line-powered packs and you can get either acute or pro depending on what you need for other accessories.</p>

<p>While the Nikon's are great, he said he wants them for the web, not for making 20x30 prints. For the web any of the Epson flatbed scanners will be more than OK AFAIK.</p>

<p>We use the 3M PMA 568 and over the last several years (5+) seen no issues with both Epson and Ilford papers. Some of our traditional tissue mounted B&W inkjet prints on the other hand have faded a bit. The 3M material is described by 3M as photo safe and in our hands works great.<br>

Bill</p>

As Ed pointed out, you are capturing the shutter. For macro, I always try to shoot at f16 to f22 with the canon equivalent of

the lens. You were shooting at f4. For macro, you typically want good DOF which means small (high number) f stops. If

you still get blown out highlights at 1/200 and f22 dial down the strobes, or put big thick diffusers (I use milk bottles) on

them. In general though, don't worry too much, stop down and you should be fine.

Bill

If you read the fine print on the lens manual it is 18.8 cm from the subject to the plane of the sensor, not to the front of the

lens.

Bill

Here is a place to get a copy of the manual for a few $. http://www.butkus.org/chinon/minolta/minolta_autometer_iii/minolta_autometer_iii.htm

Be aware that since the III doesn't have a place to plug in a sync cord you have to fire the flash and pray it works. Not the

most reliable flash meter out there, but for ambient it is quite good.

Bjoern:

Go take a look at Wetpixel and at DigiDeep. Wetpixel is probably the most current and gear savvy place to read about

UW photography and they have an extensive section for buying used gear. To really answer your question, you need to

tell us a bit more about what types of photos you want. If for example you are mostly or all macro then housing choices

are a bit broader since almost all macro ports are pretty decent. If you are interested in wide angle however then the

choices become more difficult since the differences between the dome ports can be considerable.

Don't listen to the folks badmouthing Ikelite. Their newer housings are a lot more ergonomic than those from a few years

ago and they have probably the best service in the industry. I have both Subal and Ikelite housings and the newer Ikes

with TTL and the modular port system are indeed very nice. According to Digideep, there are housings for the 5D from

Nexus, Hugyfot, Aquatica, Subal, Sea and Sea (although these are supposedly no longer made), Ikelite, Sealux and

Seacam. I don't know where to buy in Thailand, but I would strongly recommend looking at Reefphoto in the U.S. (ask for

Ryan) and Nautica in Vienna. They are both full service stores.

Take a look at Wetpixel, ask some questions there and you will learn much more there than here for the most part.

Bill

I don't know about shutter sounds, but sharks love the sound of strobes cycling. Most of photos I shoot are underwater and

fish run from non-USM lenses focusing but sharks love to come and see what the strobes are doing.

did the macine restart when you did the paper clip reset? If so then I would call Epson they are quite good about help on

the phone.

Very old link. Try normanlights.com

Seems to be working