fx

I had a chance to fiddle with the pan-adapter on the M7 while in Japan and came to the conclusion that it was essentially a waste of money. With the adapter attached, a small plate protrudes on the bottom of the camera making it awkward to lay down. The adapter is expensive and a little bulky to carry around when not used. Shooting full frame and cropping works just fine, eventhough 35mm film is priced less than 120 film the cost of the adapter offsets this issue. Unless you like to shoot panoramics A LOT, it's not neccesary.

I am interested in getting a flash unit for the Mamiya 7 II and

would like to know:

 

1. Do most Nikon flashes work with the M7? I'm particularly

interested in the SB-50DX or SB-28 or maybe an older model like the

SB-22. The 50DX is high on the list because of it's wide coverage

(14mm) for the 43mm lens.

 

2. What other flash units can I consider for wide angle coverage

with the 43mm lens? I know the Metz 40MZ-3i matches this camera

very well but what's the widest coverage?

 

2. How do I compose with the 43mm lens with a flash unit attached to

the camera hotshoe? Where does the optional viewfinder go? Do I

need to use a flash bracket??

 

I'm not familiar with flash operation on a camera like this and

would like some input. Cheers.

I've had 90% success using the camera's metering. Don't have a light meter and don't intend on getting one. If I feel the composition is critical I just bracket the exposure. Simple enough.

A few photo samples would be helpful if you can provide them. Sounds like a decent solution.

Another question I have is regarding the spirit level. How do I fill it back up since it's dry? What tool(s) do I need?

<img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=2221162&size=lg"></img>

 

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I duplicated the view finder frame in photoshop with markings just to make sure. I gather from the above response that the green frame is used for infinity and the red frame for one meter?

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Just want to make sure. Thanks.

Hi,

 

I just picked up a used 43mm lens for the M7 today. The price was

so good I couldn't resist(~$1100USD). It's in perfect condition,

not even a scratch. After walking out of the shop I immediately

shot 3 rolls of film with it. Can't wait to see the results. BTW,

if you're wondering why the price is so low, well, it's because I'm

in Asia.

 

I have a question regarding the accessory finder. I notice the

bright-line frame have marks for infinity, one meter, and for the

35mm panorama. But I am not 100% sure which markings are for

infinity and which for 1m. It didn't come with a manual and the

salesman didn't know much english so I didn't bother asking. I'm

guessing for infinity it's from the top of the frame line to the

bottom two markings? And for 1m from the two top markings within

the frame to the bottom of the frame line?

 

If there are other tips I should know with regards to the accessory

finder please advice. Cheers and thanks.

I'm interested in taking infrared photos with the Mamiya 7. I'm not

completely new to IR as I've shot IR with 35mm and digital. I'm

looking for resource links, opinions, and tips from people with

experience shooting IR with the M7 however. What filters do you

use? Film? Most importantly the camera settings? I'm interested

in shooting with both B&W and Colour IR film.

 

Thanks for your time and greatly appreciated.

I believe I can use any electronic flash unit on the M7. Right?

However, there is no manual setting on the 420EX itself so getting

the right exposure with the flash firing at full is a bit tricky. I

intend to use flash indoors from time to time and I'm pretty new to

using a flash unit on the M7 in general so any tips/tricks on

technique is greatly appreciated. Suggestions on better flash units

are welcome.

 

Cheers.

Depends what camera you have. When I put the Sigma 15mm on my EOS 30(Elan 7) at the store it wasn't compatible. It didn't have the latest firmware so it kept shutting my camera. I bought the Canon 15mm because I found both built and image quality exceeded the Sigma.

I live down South so I do most of my shopping in Busan, Nampo Dong area where the camera district is. What prices did you get for those lenses in Namdaemun? I picked up the 100 F2.8 Macro USM in April 2003 and the 70-200 F4 in September 2003. Here are the prices I paid:

 

70-200 F4 - paid 900000won (~ 675000 won at B&H)

 

100 F2.8 Macro USM - paid 640000won (~ 550000won at B&H)

 

24 F2.8 - don't have it but got quoted 420000won (~ 325000won at B&H)

 

Quotes from B&H don't include shipping.

 

Generally the prices in Korea are a fair bit higher than US prices, however you have to take into account that US prices are based on internet shopping(no tax). If you consider shipping cost to Korea and duty it's actually not far off. I'm from Canada so I can't complain because prices in Korea are actually a lot lower compared to back home(usually ~ $150-250 less).

 

Buying from the store here will also gurantee good service if you run into problems. A friend of mine bought a mint-used EOS 3 from the US for $650 but ended up paying another $150 to clear customs. Not sure how the duty would apply to lenses alone but on camera bodies they are pretty high.

 

If you save up and buy two lenses at once you can haggle them down even more. Good luck...

Where are you in Korea and which lenses are you interested in buying? I know a handful of reputable camera stores in Korea where the prices are comparable to US prices.

 

Custom duty ranges from 20-40% depending on the price of good so beware.

Recently, I've done numerous 30"x40" prints with my EOS 30(Elan 7) +

24-70 F2.8L + Velvia 100/Kodak E100VS and image quality on the

prints seem excellent, good enough(adequate) for my first photo

exhibition.

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<img src="http://www.bhophoto.com/images/photoexhibition/pe007.jpg">

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<img src="http://www.bhophoto.com/images/photoexhibition/pe008.jpg">

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I might be getting into the digital SLR realm within the next few

months and would like to hear comments on prints you get with the

10D. I am particularly interested in max print sizes with this

camera. How would it compare to 35mm on 30"x40" prints? If you

have done prints this large or slightly smaller could you mention

the lens(es) you were using as well. Any other info related to 10D

prints are welcome...

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In case some of you are wondering why I'm not shooting Medium

Format, the biggest reason being I mainly shoot

action/events/festivals/street photography. I could do away with a

Mamiya 7II, which I'm strongly considering, but generally Medium

format is out of the question because of size, weight, and

portability.

 

Cheers.

If you are a casual photographer you might want to consider getting more primes to compliment your 50. This route will save you some money and you are guaranteed good image quality. When I say save you money I do mean save you money cause 'L' lenses are very addictive once you start.

 

I owned both the 50 F1.4 and 20-35 F3.5-4.5 in the past but ended up trading them in for the 24-70 F2.8 L when it came out. If given the chance again I would've kept the 50/1.4 simply for it's portability and light-weight. The 24-70 will still give you excellent results nonetheless.

 

This review might give you an idea on the difference in image quality: <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/24-70/">CLICK HERE</a>

I bought the 24-70 January 2003, after about 2 months of constant use I encountered electronical/mechanical problems. The lens would shut my camera down when I depress the shutter button. Also when the DOF button was pressed/depressed on the camera the focusing screen would remain dark. The lens seemed like it was stuck. I sent it to Canon and they fixed it in about a week. When I got the lens back I noticed they over-tightened the focus ring which made it impossible to manual focus so I had to send it in again. That took another week. A few other owners encountered the same problem when I made a post about this issue way back when. I believe most of them managed to resolve this same issue as well.

 

I still own the lens and still enjoy using it a lot. It's given me a lot of very good 30"x40" photos- sharp, saturated, and high-contrasted. The lens have worked flawlessly since. The hood mount on mine is still solid and tight after a year of use.

Why did you buy the 50 F1.4 in the first place? That's really a shame and a huge waste since it's an awesome lens with a wide variety of usage, artistically speaking.

 

You've had the 28-105 so you know how it performs.

 

The 28-135 IS is a highly regarded consumer lens but it will overlap your 70-200 quite abit. It may affect the usage of that awesome telephoto lens as well. Not good.

 

I'm not familiar with Tamron lenses so I can't give you feedback. Though my friends who own them have complained regarding softness/lack of contrast.

 

Since you are on a budget you could either re-purchase the 28-105 or consider the 24-85 F3.5-4.5 USM, if you can find one.

If you don't mind getting prime lenses and want the lenses for tele-perspective than the following are also good considerations:

 

EF 135 F2.8 Soft Focus, EF 100 F2.0, and EF 100 F2.8 Macro

 

If you want tele-photo and the two suggestions above (EF 100-300 F4.0-5.6 and EF 70-200 F4L) are good choices.

Thanks guys. At least that will give me a rough idea as to the cost. I'm currently working in Korea and the price of lenses here are pretty decent. I paid ~$350USD for the lens and am thinking about not fixing it cause I could live without AF with this particular lens. Anything over 3 feet I just set to infinity anyways(as Puppy Face pointed out). The other problem is they hardly speak good english and it takes a long time(3 1/2 weeks last time I got the 24-70 F2.8L fixed under warranty).

 

I would've been a lot more choked about this particular incident if I hadn't picked up the 70-200 F4L(new) at the same time.

 

Cheers.

Hey guys

 

I picked up a used Canon 15mm Fisheye and the AF stopped working

after I dropped it. The lens was in a leather poach and took a 2

feet free fall out of my toploader onto the pavement. When I try to

AF there is a tiny click sound coming from the lens, that's it.

 

I'm debating on sending it in and would like to know if any of you

guys had experience with the cost factor.

 

Cheers

Bought my Nov 2002 and it basically lives on my EOS 30(Elan 7e). Optically it's awesome throughout the apertures and zoom range. Built quality is also excellent. I did however encounter a glitch with it two months ago. If I had to guess I would say it was an electronic malfunction. First off, the lens would shut down my camera after I press the shutter button and the low-batt indicator flashes. I have to depress the shutter again for the mirror to pop back up and the camera to turn on again. It did that on random occassions, not every time. Secondly, the depth-of-field preview was completely whacked. Nothing would happen in the view finder when the DOF button was depressed while changing the f-stops. Most of the time it would lock on DOF preview equivalent to F22 where the viewfinder is completely darken. In other words, even when I'm at F2.8 the screen is pitch dark(F22 DOF preview view). To clarify, it's obviously not the camera cause for one, I'm not a dummy and two, once I switch lenses everything was back to normal. So..I brought it to my dealer and he sent it to Canon. Two weeks later I got it back and it's functioning as should be. Didn't bother asking what the problem was cause the guy doesn't really speak any english.

 

Not sure if other owners encoutered this problem, but I just want to say that even the best of the best still have glitches here and there.

 

For the record, the lens is working fine and I'm still very happy with it.

 

Cheers.

This lens is super sharp, well built, and handles well on the body. It's also a versatile lens once you get use to the perspective. I use this lens a lot next to the 24-70 F2.8L.

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<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1521697">Pic #1</a>

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<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1521638">Pic #2</a>

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<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1380763">Pic #3</a>

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The price difference can be attributed to better lens construction, better dust sealing, wider reach, and exotic glass used. Haven't tried the new 17-40mm F4L myself, but the 20-35 F3.5-4.5 I used to own had pretty significant barrel distortion. You'll notice it in this photo:

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<img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1269801&size=md"> </br>

Glad you are enjoying your new purchase. For those who are especially picky, the 24-70 F2.8 L is even better than the 16-35 F2.8 L in terms of optics. Build quality is also superb. I've used this lens in pouring rain and heavy snow/dust without any problems. The huge hood does well protecting the glass. The only drawback for some people is the weight. The 70-200 F2.8 L IS I still have to experience.

The hood for this lens is big but nonetheless I keep it on since I don't use a filter. It's great for rainy days and windy days(dust). I'll put a filter on if I'm shooting by the coast to further protect it from salt sprays.

Chances are the new lens, like the 16-35 L, will have much better distortion correction than the 20-35.