jim_seaman

Ronnie,

"The Koni-Omega rapid looks pretty fun to use, but, again, it seems to be too big and heavy. Also, apparently it needs an external viewfinder for anything under 90mm, which I think is ridiculous."

I have one of these. It is larger and heavier than the Fuji by a good amount. It is about the same size and general shape of my Nikon F4s with a 50mm lens, though the koni is a little lighter. The viewfinder is parallex correcting and fairly easy to use. I have the 90mm and the 58mm lenses and am very happy with the results. I bought it used with both lenses (including the viewfinder), a gossen luna pro F, sunpack flash, nice camera bag and some misc. odds and ends for around $500 if memory serves. The camera, back and lenses had been recently cla'ed before the sale and work perfectly.

The external viewfinder is a bit odd but it works well.

I had a kiev 60 as well but it was long gone before I bought the koni so I can't compare the two side by side.

As you suspected, it will likely fall short of your definition of compact. (though compaired to my RB67 it seems pretty compact ;) )

My advice (so take it for what it's worth) is to buy what you want. Otherwise you will always wonder... And if you are like me you end up buying it later anyway! :)

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Gabriele,

If it were me (and it was a few years ago), I would and did buy a used tlr. I bought a well used Rolleiflex from eBay for about $150 and then had a local shop go through it for another $100. I'm sure prices have risen a bit so maybe do the same with a Yashica or Minolta Autocord.

If you want interchangable lenses its hard to go wrong with the Mamiya C330 or related camera models. This is what I migrated to after the Rollei. Disadvantage here is that its larger and heavier than the non-interchangable lense cameras. Advantage is that it is very heavy duty.

Unless you are a rare exception, you will probably not find the perfect camera on the first try. A lot (if not most) depends on what and how you shoot. The tlr's, for the money, seem to be the most versitile. They are a lot of fun and produce very nice images.

In my opinion, a great way to try out medium format.

Good luck and have fun with what ever you choose.

Regards,

Jim Seaman

The funniest for me, was when someone thought that I was a surveyor! I had a C330 on a tripod at the time... They were trying to point out thier property lines and it took me a little while to figure out what they were talking about. :)

Jim Seaman

Mag,

"but with my F 3 I allways work similar to Mamiya, put irt on tripod, attach proper viewfinder, meter with spotmeter on greycard, focus by DOF table.... its not that fast^^ "

Yes, for this purpose I can definately see the rb taking on the role of the F3. The mechanics of the shot will be the same and you end up with a larger negative.

Didn't see the a/f minolta part in the post. Sorry about that.

Regards,

Jim Seaman

Mag,

I initially stopped using my 35mm nikons. They sat for 6 months. Then I started noticing that I wasn't enjoying shooting too fast a subject (mainly kids). I was missing some shots due to not being able to manipulate the equipment fast enough. Then I started looking back at some of the 35mm negatives from my nikkor (primes and high end zooms) and found that the results were pretty darn good. I picked up the equipment again and found that I use it often for field work that involves moving people or when I want a lighter kit to carry around. 95% of the time, when I'm in the studio, I shoot medium format. If I'm out to take landscape or anything not moving too fast ( people who actually stand still, once in a while :) ) I shoot medium format. For anything else or if I just want a good 'all arounder' with a lighter bag (ie - I'm carrying too many other (non-photo related) things to justify my Koni), I shoot 35mm.

Currently I shoot:

RB67 Pro S - (m/f - usually, in the studio.)

Koni Omega Rapid 100 - (m/f - usually, in the field.)

Nikon F4s - (35mm in the field - usually b&w.)

Nikon F100 - (35mm in the field - usually color.)

Moskva V - (m/f - just for fun on Sunday afternoons.)

Olympus XA - (35mm, small enough to always on my person, just in case...)

Olympus C4040 - (digital, when-ever I want snap shots for web work.)

Maybe, a new-ish af645 could take over a lot of the jobs that I split between the 35mm's and m/f's... I certainly don't need *another* camera... Or maybe I do... "Hello, my name is Jim and I have a camera problem..."

Anyway I *do* use both formats frequently.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

"Nobody still uses these things anymore, do they? The lenses can't really compete with newer stuff, for portraits I mean."

Nobody except some of us misguided photo.net types that try to help out with an answer...

Another vote for the koni omega. Its faster for me than a manual 35mm. [As long as I don't have to meter between shots...] And don't let anyone stand too close to your right side or a fight will ensue with you 'starting it' ;) - (due to the physical mechanics of the advance - for those unfamiliar with the koni)

If I recall correctly, the RB has a motor drive 220 back available to it. That would just leave you with the mirror/shutter reset. I don't have one of these since I typically use my rb in the studio or on a tripod and a little more time to advance the film doesn't trouble me.

Most of the time, when I shoot kids playing I use one of my a/f Nikons in aperature priority. I'll bet one of the 645's with built in motor drive and metering would work well in this situation too.

Regards,

Jim Seaman

Michael,

You'll most likely not notice the weight and bulk if you carry THAT kit around already :) I'm usually carrying lots of other non-photo related gear in addition to camera stuff. Might want to think about at least carrying the F3 or digital body in addition to a couple of primes. Judging by what you are currently carrying, it will still be under weight... Its easier for me to hand hold 35mm than the RB. I typically only hand hold the RB when I've got strobes to work with and shutter speed is 1/250th or better.

I will say that its hard to go back to 35mm in the dark room after doing medium format.

Good luck and have fun!

Jim

Michael,

I have an RB67 Pro S and its a very capable camera. It is also huge and heavy... I bought a used Koni Omega Rapid 100 with the 58mm and 90mm lenses for field work. The (pre-cla'ed before I bought it) camera and both lenses is smaller (and cheaper) than my RB67 with 1 lens - and it shoots a 6x7 negative as well. The Rapid 100 is about the size/weight as my F4s with a 105mm lens on it.

The RB67 is a fine camera and I use it almost exclusively in my studio but is a bit bulky for me to carry around. (This coming from someone who is 6'4" and routinely carries around an F4s with an 80-200 f2.8.) With the left hand grip it sort of resembles a vulcan rotary cannon... Some people do cary them into the field. The camera won't let you down, once you get there.

The RB is handier for closeup work and it is built like a tank... Then again so is the Koni (tanklike, that is...)

My advice would be to try one set up the way you would carry it and see if it would work for you. The safest advice as far as lenses go would be to stick with at least the "C" (coated) lenses and newer. I've had very good luck with my 127mm C and since I rarely venture into the field with it, that's the only lens I use.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Thomas,

First congratulations! Twins are great fun and I'm sure you will enjoy them.

I have twin boys (now 19 month olds) and what I can tell you is that the problems in photographing one baby go up exponentially when photographing two... One is never looking with the expression you want when the other is. When you are taking pictures you need a baby wrangler for each baby. Go over what you will need from them before the shoot. When they are not mobile the situation is much easier. Once they are mobile its chaos theory in motion... Try to get them engaged in something that captures their interest. I won't post the tired old photo (yet again) of my two standing with the chair but

its in my profile if you don't remember it. Patience and many frames of film on a couple of shoots will get some keepers. Try to take the photo's early in the day, right after breakfast. They seem to be at their best, most often, at that time of day. Make sure you stop when either you or they become frustrated because it only deteriorates further after that.

Hopefully this was helpful.

Good luck and have fun!

Jim Seaman

Gabriele,

What Oliver said. :) I have: the afd 85mm /1.8, the 105 /2.5 ais and the 80-200 /2.8.

Best bargain for least money from his list, in my opinion, is the 105/2.5 ai or ais. I bought mine used for about $95, including shipping and it performs very well.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Christian,

You could go to a fabric store and buy muslin. You could then hang it via clips or push pins in the wall. Wait for a sale if you do this. Also check out ebay for backdrops. I bought a black one through ebay from http://www.backdropoutlet.com and it was fairly inexpensive.

There's also inexpensive paper backdrops that can work for this as well but I have no experience with them.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Joe,

I have an F4s and an F100. I enjoy using the F4 more than the F100 even though it has slightly slower and less acurate autofocus than the F100. I like the user interface of the F4. It has a window for viewing the current aperature built into the viewfinder. With the F100 I have to remember by the number of clicks or flip the camera up to see what its set at (with m/f and non-chipped lenses).

The F4 is heavier (even with the mb-20 battery pack) than the F100. It has a built to last kind of feel. I'm sure the F100 will last as well and is technologically superior with many of its features. Unfortunately, the older I get the more of the features I turn off. Seems like the camera's are trying to make too many of the 'creative' decisions for me. For me, to use many of the features effectively, there is a steep learning curve in order to make them second nature. I typically set everything to manual or aperature priority and go.

I bought the F100 before the F4s. I have wanted an F4 since they came out and now after having one, it is truly as good as I imagined it would be. One of the very few things in life, at my income level, that has delivered to my expectations. If that's not an endorsment, I don't know what is... :)

So, to my mind the choices are: F5, F100, F4 and N90s. None of them are bad choices. Pick the one that fits: your useage (do you *need* mlu then F4 and F5 are the only choices, etc.), your wallet and your hand. If you buy one used, make sure you get a warrenty and either pay more for one that has been recently cla'd or budget enough to have it done if necessary.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Mark,

For what its worth, I use both all the time. These are only my observations based on how I shoot and what I shoot with.

- Fast moving subjects in less controlled environments are better suited to my 35mms than my medium formats. (more spontaneous portraits)

- When I have the time and its in a more controlled environment I use medium format. (more posed portraits)

My 35mm's just seem to be 'faster on their feet' than my medium format. Admittedly that has a lot to do with the cameras that I use most often (Nikon: F4s and F100, Mamiya RB67, Koni Omega Rapid 100). Sometimes I shoot 35mm in the studio and medum format in the street but its usually the other way around. 90% of the time if I'm on a tripod the camera is a medium format.

You'll have to make the choice for yourself and it may not be an easy one.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Edward,

Could be: film speed set to a different rating, matrix metering covering a different field of view than the incident or reflected meter(likely) or one of them is off. Print film has a wide exposure ability compared to slide film. If you use slide film using both of them, of the same subject, do both produce properly exposed slides?

If you can change to center weighted metering on your n80 (assuming that this is possible), you will be closer to a reflected meter reading from your hand held. Both my F4 and F100 are close to my gossen meter when they are set to center-weighted and I meter off of a blank wall. They are also pretty close when I use spot metering and my spot meter attachement for my Gossen.

Also, make sure the batteries in your meter are fresh. I have an older gossen that had a battery conversion kit and it meters well until the batteries get 'tired' and then, even though they test fine in the meter, they under expose by up to 3 stops.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Michel,

Medium format probably wouldn't replace your need for 35mm. I thought that it would for me and it hasn't. I suspect you would regret selling the Leica for many years. You could always try some used gear first to make sure you like medium format. I found that I did not like the square (though many do!) and prefered 6x7 instead. I'm glad I didn't invest a lot in my first mf cameras...

Regards,

Jim Seaman

I liked the dedication to past users via the non-changing lens mount. I had an Olympus OM10 in high school and wanted to step up to a more sophisticated camera. At the time the N8008 had just come out and it was either that or the F4. I didn't have the money for the F4 at the time so I went with the N8008. The camera functioned flawlessly and worked well for what I was using it for. When it came time to replace it with another body 15 years later I looked to Nikon again. I walked out with an F100 and later with a used F4s as a second body.

I like the interfaces and general dependability that the Nikon's have delivered. Maybe I would have had a similar experience with Cannon but I felt 'safer' with Nikon and its backwards compatibility with regards to lenses.

Regards,

Jim Seaman

Patrick,

I have to disagree, regarding the rb67 being hard to opperate. Safety's are nice to have. The camera won't fire unless the dark slide is out or at a specific mark on the dark slide (for releasing the shutter without exposing the film.). I, for one, might sometimes forget to pull the darkslide and have a completely blank roll of film at the end of the roll if not for this safety. The rotating back is wonderful! 6x7 or 7x6 just by turning the back not the whole camera. It: is robust, has a leaf shutter that will flash sync at all speeds, has mirror lockup, built in bellows for close work, and has a HUGE amount of reasonably priced used lenses and accessories available.

Good luck and have fun with what ever you choose.

Regards,

Jim Seaman

Use involves cocking two handles instead of one but it really isn't that much of a big deal. Once the film is loaded and darkslide is out you are pretty much ready to go. Its very user friendly in my opinion. Studio work what it was made for.

David,

"If a person picks an N80 over an F100 on the basis of weight and they are not disabled or doing some kind of expedition photography what can explain? Perhaps saving for a DSLR? Otherwise there is little commitment and a P&S would probably make a better choice. To top it all off many buy a cheap, slow zoom lens and get photographs that are indistinguishable from a point and shoot."

I suspect that many of the great photographer's of the world could take a better shot with a decent point and shoot than I could with an F5. Then again, by your definition, I AM one of those you would find better off with a point and shoot since I often don't carry my RB67 around with me (due to weight constraints), even though it will produce a larger and sharper result than any of my Nikons. The horror! - To add insult to injury I DO often carry my Olympus XA in a coat pocket!

Everyone needs to start somewhere. I've found that with proper technique someone can produce a pretty decent photo with a really cheap body and a really cheap 3rd party lens. Are they shooting sports or some sort of fast action? Likely not. Would it be easier for them with better equipment? Most likely. Is an F80 a cheap body? I don't think so. The F100 (which I do own) seems more sturdy than the F80 but not as sturdy as my F4s.

I don't think a person has to necessarily have the more expensive, the "best" or heavier equipment to have a commitment to taking decent photos and I think your comments may discourage those people without sufficient resources or those that have a need (or desire) to have a light kit.

Regards,

Jim Seaman

Both are good cameras. I've seen excellent shots taken with each.

Here is my opionion:

The F100 is heavier and seems much more robust when comparing the two, side by side. The F80 is lighter and has a good reputation for being robust from many users.

How will you use the camera? (if you plan to carry it around all day around your neck on a vacation, the F80 might be the way to go - and its got a small, built in flash.) How big are your hands? (the N80 (as its called here) is a little too small to fit well in my hands.) Do you have or do you plan to have Nikkor manual focus lenses? (if so go F100 as the F80 doesn't support them)

Bear in mind, a film body really boils down to: a light tight box with metering and film transport built into it. (Typically, an F80 with a Nikkor 50mm af-d f1.8 lens on it will deliver better shots, with the same photographer, with the same subject, from the same point of view: than an F5 with a Vivitar AF 28-80 f3.5-5.6)

Pick the one that works best for you! (Best: is suited to your needs, fits your hand and your budget.)

Whichever body you choose you cannot go wrong with the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 af-d lens as a starting point! Its cheap, fast and sharp!

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Robert,

Before buying anything check to make sure you are able to obtain critical focus at all with what you have. One of the previous posters made an excellent point that if the focus screen isn't in alignment, maybe you are focusing correctly and the equipment is letting you down. You could use a sacraficial roll of film to determine this. I'd set up perfect lighting and a set of objects with different distances from the lens. Focus on one of them in particular with your lens fully open and take a picture. (low f/stop) When you develop it, if the 'subject' on the film isn't in focus on the negative then you have a mechanical issue. If it is, then any of the previously mentioned items should help. I have a bright-screen (think its a beattie) that I bought used. My camera was able to focus before but it was difficult for me to do so quickly. The new screen made a huge difference for me.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman

Robert,

I agree with the last post. I put in a brighter screen and it made a huge difference.

Regards,

Jim Seaman

Nathan,

I have both an F100 and an F4 so I can compare a bit.

The F100: is faster and more accurate focusing, has better fill flash capabilities, faster fill flash sync, lcd panel (actually a con for me), newer - two control wheel interface, ability to use VR lenses

The F4: slightly slower and less accurate focus (than the F100 - though it really isn't that bad), more robust feeling - almost 'industrial', traditional control layout, WONDERFUL usability for older manual focus lenses - including matrix metering on ai and ai-s lenses, replacable finders, mirror lockup.

I use the F100 when ever I need a faster, lower light, auto focus capability or when I want better automatic fill flash. I use the F4 just about any other time... Mind you, the F4 isn't really bad at either of those two areas, its just that the F100 is a little better.

Hard to choose but if you've got an F100 already a good, used F4 is hard to beat.

Good luck with your decision,

Jim Seaman

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Adnan,

Here's my opinion only:

While I really like folders, it would be hard to find one in the $200-$300 range that would deliver as good of a result as a decent used Rollei or other TLR. With folding camera's its really hard to get a consistent focus across the film plane since the lens board is not static. The Rollei's are quite small and can deliver outstanding performance. I have a Moskva 5 (folding 6x9) with a 6x6 mask that I paid FAR less than $100 for and while it is a fun camera, it can't hold a candle to the first Rollei that I had. I use it for fun and my expectations are not high.

Good luck,

Jim Seaman