neelphoto
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Posts posted by neelphoto
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<p>I downloaded LR3 yesterday and worked on a couple of scanned tiff files and a few Nikon nef files. The new noise reduction is very good. Also it's quite a bit faster. Haven't tried out the Lens Correction tool yet. Going by your volume, the improvement in processing speed may help you. You can always download it and try it out for a few days.</p>
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<p>I have the HP2475W and I use EyeOne Display2 for calibration. It works fine. Just remember to keep the monitor on for at least 1 hr before you start calibrating.</p>
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<p>Cliched shot of the arches.</p><div>
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<p>Another monitor you should consider is the HP LP2475w. It has an IPS panel and is in the same price range as the 2408. I own one and I'm very satisfied with it.</p>
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<p>I have noticed that using ICE at the Normal setting works quite well. There is seldom any need to use ICE at the Fine setting. Using ICE at the Fine setting reduces the sharpness further.</p>
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<p>Thanks to Hamish Gray, Lil Judd, Joseph Leotta, Dave Greenidge, Chris Court, Shawn McFarlane and John Conway for your kind comments on the Fisher Towers shot. John, you are right, I was using Velvia 50. Cheers...</p>
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<p>Fisher Tower near Moab, UT. Scanned this week. Nikon FM3a, Nikkor 17-35 f2.8 AF-S.</p><div></div>
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<p>I mostly use Lightroom 2 and a few of the Nik Software modules for post processing. After all the processing (except for output sharpening) I export the unsharpened image to the specific master folder. Then I use Nik Sharpener 3 for output sharpening for Display and create a 16-bit tiff file for the sharpened image. Then I export it as a 100% JPEG to the specific folder for the Web images (using sRGB colorspace). The idea is that I can post this jpeg image wherever I want after resizing and downgrading the quality to 80% or so. I'm uncertain as to how this degrades the image quality. In other words, does the image quality suffers more than it should, when a jpeg, saved at original size at 100% quality, gets dowsized at reduced quality? Is it better to resize and burn as a jpeg at reduced quality directly from the sharpened tiff? Thanks...</p>
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<p>My first HDR image...</p><div></div>
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<p>Eric, Lil and Simon, thanks a lot for your kind comments. Looking forward to next Wednesday for some more great shots.</p>
<p>Indranil</p>
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<p>This is the first photo I'm posting on photo.net. It was shot a long time back but I scanned it last week. The camera in use was FM3A. The lens was 80-200 f2.8 AF-S. The film was Velvia 50.</p>
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<p>16x20 is 4 times bigger than 8x10, not 2 times. So, going by Patrick's numbers, you'll get 60 color prints, not 120.</p>
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<p>I recently bought the HP LP2475 for $561 from amazon. The panel is IPS. EyeOne recommends the brightness to be set at 120cd/m^2. The monitor brightness setting on the OSD needs to be reduced to 10 or thereabouts to get 120cd/m^2. I'm completely satisfied with this monitor but YMMV.</p>
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<p>I had contacted Nik Software this morning regarding the above issue and I just heard back from them. They acknowledge that this is a known issue and their development team is working on a fix. They did not specify whether the issue is related to the LR plug-in or the software in general.</p>
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<p>I use Viveza from within LR2.3. I'm noticing that there is a distinct color shift when the image opens in Viveza. Yes, I have chosen ProPhoto RGB as the color space in Viveza and I copy the file with the LR adjustments. My monitor is properly calibrated. I'm seeing this in images captured with D700 as well as scanned images from LS5000. Any pointers? Thanks...</p>
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<p>I use Nikon Scan and I have Color Management <i>turned off</i>. That is why I used to convert to the working colorspace, which is DCAM3 in my case, after assigning the scanner profile. This used to be workflow in Photoshop before I started using Lightroom. </p>
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<p>Well, profiling scanners is hardly as critical as profiling displays or printers. I decided to profile my scanner to get more accurate colors right out of the box once the profile is assigned in Photoshop so that I have to muck around less in Photoshop. So question for Godfrey and Patrick. Do you have color management turned on in your scanner software and if so, what color space do you use?</p>
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<p>I have a large number of scanned images. They have all been scanned from slides using the Nikon LS5000. I have calibrated the scanner using Profile Mechanic and IT8 targets. Typically I go into CS3 and assign the scanner profile and then convert the color space to DCAM3 (one of the Holmes color spaces). I recently started using Lightroom and it works great for digital capture. However, I'm not too sure how it will work with my scanned images. I know that Lightroom uses ProPhoto color space. So what is the best way of assigning the scanner profile? Should I first import the images into Lightroom and then edit them in Photoshop and assign the scanner profile. I should probably skip the step where I convert the images to DCAM3 in CS3. Then, when I come back to Lightroom, the color space should get converted to ProPhoto, right? Thanks...</p>
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<p>I wonder why people don't want cameras with automatic features. They can go completely manual if they wish to with bodies like the D3 or the new D3x. I would always go with a superset of features even if I just need a subset of them.</p>
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<p>This is depressing.</p>
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You may also consider the NexTo eXtreme ND-2700. They are available at mydigitaldiscount.com. I am also currently looking for a storage solution and the hyperdrive and the NexTo are the ones I'm seriously considering. The new Hyperdrive Colorspace UDMA (has a 3.2" display) and the NexTo have OTG backup. So you can hookup a portable hard drive like the Seagate FreeAgent Go and make a second copy. Not sure if the ND-2700 or the ColorSpace UDMA can power the second hard drive. Another solution is to go for a netbook like the ASUS with enough storage and a portable hard drive, though this is hardly ideal if you going to be out in the wilderness for a considerable period of time. Let us know what you decide.
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I use two 1TB Seagate FreeAgent Pro drives. The drives have USB 2.0, Firewire 400 and eSATA connection. It comes with the USB and Firewire cable. I have been using them for almost a year and so far so good. The backup software is easy to use and does what it is supposed to do. I have no complaints.
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The format is called NRW. Nikon offers. ViewNX supports it, but not CaptureNX2. Adobe ACR 4.6 and
ACR 5 support it.
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The Seagate FreeAgent Pro drives are quite good. I use two 1TB drives. The auto-backup software is
easy to use and does what it is supposed to do. You can use Firewire 400, USB 2.0 or eSATA.
Nikon Wednesday 2012: #18
in Nikon
Posted