paulus

I have seen the same issue on the D70. In less than 30 minutes the battery was drained when connected with the USB to the PC. This is the reason why I bought a card reader. Still I find this unacceptable.

 

I never had the possibility to do any measurements, but a >1000mA/h battery drained in say 15 minutes means that >4 Amperes must run somewhere, this should not happen and is possible dangerous (overheating!). Or am I overlooking something here? Is there any electrical engineer around that has looked into this issue?

<div></div>

Photoshop only converts images to jpeg files at the moment when you save them to disk. If you use "save as" you can tell photoshop to use an other format than jpeg. So I do not understand why there is a difference between horizontal and vertical shots.

 

hope this helps.

Paul

Notmy wrote:<br>

>I downloaded it just in the event that updates aren't cumulative<br>

>(i.e., v102 does not include what's patched in v101).<br>

<p>

Normally firmwares have all software in one piece so it is extermly unlikely that the patches are cumulative. So do not worry about it.

<p>

Besides that, some improvements are not always listed. For example with the v2.00 firmware of the D200, some Sigma lenses are better supported. But Nikon did not tell us that...

Maybe the scripts can not find dcraw. Try adding the full path to dcraw, like "c:\bin\dcraw" or wherever you have put dcraw.

No disk space means that you do not have any storage space on your computer left. You need to clean up (=deleted) some files you will not need anymore. Or you need to buy a larger hard disk.

 

What do you mean by 'trashing' your lessons? If you mean that you put the files in the trash bin, than it might help by emptying the trash bin. The trash bin does not really delete any files, and your disk is still getting full. How to empty your trash bin depends on which operating system you are using.

First I could not see your purple spot on my monitor, only when I increased the gamma (within the level tools in the Gimp) I started seeing the purple spot. So my first question, do you have your monitor calibrated correclty (at least brightness and contrast)?

 

Second question, are you sure there is no light leaking in via the eyepiece viewfinder? This could maybe cause these kinds of spots.

 

I did take the same photo on my D200 at H1.0 (iso3200) f22, 1s. And I got a nice black photo. Increasing the "exposure" during the raw conversion (EV=+3) I saw only randon pixels<div></div>

The D70 has a default ISO setting of 200 and the D200 of 100. Maybe you should try setting the D200 at 200 iso and check if your photos improve.

Steve: you can download the firmware from, for example, the <a href="http://www.europe-nikon.com/flashmap/support.html">the EU nikon site</a>

<p>

<i>Now I can use the back AF button with the Sigma 70-200 f2.8 EX HSM</i><br>I can confirm this! Thanks for pointing this out. This button is one of the (many) reasons I upgrade fron D70 to D200. So I am very happy it is working now for this lens.

smaller version<div></div>

Nikon F70<div></div>

I have no answer to your question, but I have the same problem. I have set certain options to extend batery life. On page 207 in the manual you can find that the folowing list will reduce batery life:<p>

1) using the moniotor (LCD)<br>

2) keeping the shutter release button pressed half way<br>

3) repeated auto focus<br>

4) taking NEF/RAW photos<br>

5) slow shutter speeds<br>

<p>What I did was:<p>

ad 1) switch off automatic Image review (P141)<br>

ad 1) set monitor of delay to 10s (P157)<br>

ad 1) keep lcd-illumination off (P159)<br>

ad 2) this is mainly exposure meter so I set Auto meter off delay (P157) to shortest time (4s)<br>

ad 3) use single and not continues auto focus whenever possible.<br>

<p>For point 4 and 5 there is not much to do about, unless you like jpg's and high ISO.<p>

other 1) switch of AF-Assist illiuminator (P152)<br>

other 2) switch off beep (p158) (probably does not safe much battery but every thing does help)<br>

<p>I hope this helps everyone to safe on batery life. If I missed something, please let me know.

Interesting, I just downloaded and compiled it, but I find it not as mature as ufraw (current version 0.81). Which is based on the same engine (dcraw)

You might want to shoot some shots in RAW mode. In Raw you can do all the WB adjustment later on your computer. I am not saying you should go to RAW only, but this might help you to learn about different WB settings. You can install Nikon Capture trial version to play (and learn) with it.

For info the enclosed exif tags:<p>

Equipment Make: NIKON CORPORATION<br>

Camera Model: NIKON D200<br>

Camera Software: Adobe Photoshop CS Macintosh<br>

Maximum Lens Aperture: f/4.4<br>

Sensing Method: One-Chip Color Area<br>

Color Filter Array Pattern: 982<br>

Focal Length (35mm Equiv): 105 mm<br>

<br>

Image-Specific Properties:<br>

<br>

Image Orientation: Top, Left-Hand<br>

Horizontal Resolution: 72 dpi<br>

Vertical Resolution: 72 dpi<br>

Image Created: 2006:02:05 02:49:41<br>

White Point Chromaticity: 0.3<br>

Exposure Time: 1/30 sec<br>

F-Number: f/4.5<br>

Exposure Program: Normal Program<br>

ISO Speed Rating: 140<br>

Exposure Bias: 0 EV<br>

Metering Mode: Pattern<br>

Light Source: Unknown<br>

Flash: No Flash<br>

Focal Length: 70.00 mm<br>

Color Space Information: Uncalibrated<br>

Image Width: 180<br>

Image Height: 169<br>

Rendering: Normal<br>

Exposure Mode: Auto<br>

White Balance: Auto<br>

Scene Capture Type: Standard<br>

Gain Control: None<br>

Contrast: Normal<br>

Saturation: Normal<br>

Sharpness: Soft<br>

Subject Distance Range: Unknown<br>

<p>

So no exposure compensation applied.

<p>

Did you try to correct the levels in photoshop? Looking at the histogram you can see that there are almost no pixels in the dark part (169..255) only in the bright part. This also shows that basically the image is correctly exposed.

<p>

Paul

John and Jeff,<br>

I did found some screen shots from Chris Breeze which helps, thanks for the name. Do you think this software is easy to use? What are the strong and weak points?

<p>

Jerry,<br>Nikon capture might have this functionalty, But I can not run Nikon Capture there I do not own MS-windows so I can not try it out. Have you use it? Is it easy to use? Or do you think it can be made easier?

oops, sorry Alex, I did not read your question correclty. You are already using PTP mode...

I am planning to write an open sources GUI to control your camera from

a PC using the PTP protocol over a USB connection. From the PC you

should be able to set all the major settings, like aperture,

shutterspeed, white balance etc. After taking the photo, a preview

will be shown and the final version downloaded.

 

Now I am thinking how to setup the user interface (GUI) in a user

friendly way and would appreciate some feedback on how to best setup

such a GUI. After the basic functionality has been build other

features like time loops etc could be added.

 

The initial software will only be tested on Linux with a D70 camera,

but it should not be to difficult to get it working with other cameras

as well. There is no schedule yet, so please do not ask when it will

be done, there I do not know yet. I know that it can be done, but

thats all I can say for the moment.

 

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

 

Paul

Alex,

 

Yes it is defenitely possible! I have used gphoto2 for this with success on my D70. For Gphoto2 the camera must be in PTP mode.

 

I am using gphoto2 with kernel 2.6.13 on a gentoo system

 

Paul

oh boy, am I glad I saved some money! when can I actually buy it?

have a look at <a href=http://www.k-i-s.net/article.php?article=22>Photo Organizer</a>

and <a href=http://gallery.menalto.com/>Gallery</a>

both are free...

Frank,

Sorry for my not perfect english, I ment a deeper lens hood. I think Ocean Physics explained quite well what I was saying. On top of that the photo from Shun Cheung gives us the proof.

 

I will try to explain. The lens hood is there to prevent (not usable) light to enter the glass. When we have a smaller sensor (film) size the angle field is smaller when using the same lens. Therefore we could use a much deeper (longer, larger) lens hood to keep unwanted light out, while not blocking the image on the sensor.

 

When unwanted light enters the glass we could get glare due to reflections between the different elements of the lens.

 

Ian,

Is this what you where talking about?

Actually you could put on a larger hood, and prevent flare even better!

www.photo.net/photos/Rik%20Pennartz should work too. "%20" instead of " ".

Indeed a mistery! The only way I can get my photos to look like this is using a very strong curve correction. Did you load any curves in your camera? Or does Nikon viewer has any curve or gamma correction switched on? How do the photos look like in other viewig software?