philip_roberts1

<p>Fit a dust removal system that is as effective as the Olympus system. Particularly on full frame!</p>

 

<p>As a mac user can I say to all who have contributed the 'get a mac' answers - the man is already a mac user - read the thread!<br>

For PC's I use Dell, they are not perfect but consistent results and good customer service (in UK anyway) in my experience.<br>

For image editing - get as much RAM & Video RAM as you can hold, don't fret about graphics cards or processors, they are mostly all adequate (unless you deliberately buy the stripped down budget model).<br>

If you want portability or space saving - Laptop<br>

Bang for buck - Desktop</p>

 

<p>For those who think that primes are no good for wedding work, enjoy your opinions, I am convinced you don't know what you are talking about. Probably you have never had to shoot film with a Hassy have you? I did for many years and shot weddings on TWO prime lenses (50mm distagon & 80mm planar) - worked for me! Any photographer worth his salt can make a lens work, it just comes down to your personal style and working practice as to your choice of glass.<br>

Regarding the lens choice, if you are lashing out on a lens like the 85/1.4 Nikkor, why not consider the 105/2 DC Nikkor? Fabulous lens that will give your pictures a unique 'look' that not many others will achieve, plus your DOF control is much more in your hands. Assuming you use a DX DSLR this means an equivalent lens around 150mm FOV, nice for good headshots.</p>

 

<p>Check out the dpreview.com lens tests - put up the comparison charts for the 1.8D & the 1.4D and you will see that the 1.8D holds the high ground all the way to f4. However, both lens will knock any kit zoom into a cocked hat in terms of sharpness - my tuppennyworth? get the 1.8D. save the money for something more exciting.</p>

<p>If you can live with only one focal length lens, a TLR is the most rewarding way to shot MF. I left film a little while ago to go digital, but if I ever go back I will bankrupt myself for a Rollei FX 2.8. It has to be the best picture taking machine ever. No vibration, no viewfinder blackout, waist level composition forces you to compose the whole frame in a way that squinting down an SLR prism never does, and the lenses are the sharpest, most contrasty and completely stunning I have ever seen. You cradle it close to your torso, the most stable place to hold a camera, you squeeze the shutter release gently, you hear the whisper of the leaf shutter, and the shot is in the bag. In case you hadn't guessed - I'm in love.</p>

<p>Bruce, welcome to the UK and I hope you get a great few days with the camera. I second David Bell's comments. Train travel isn't the cheapest, but it is good, (particularly mainline connections) realistically, if you are not comfortable driving on the Left, don't even consider a car. Plus if you want to visit London, a car is the worst way to do it (no-where to park, congestion charge on weekdays, murderous traffic). Simply put, If you haven't been to London before it really is a must do. The buses and tube trains are comprehensive, and a One day travelcard gives you unlimited travel all day.<br>

Gray's of Westminster is definitely worth a visit! Quaint, but fantastic, and with the exchange rate in your favour at the moment you could spend some serious money! (Worth it for the second hand lenses alone).<br>

My next choice would be Cambridge. It's a city I love, and the college architecture is fantastic. You probably won't see more bicycles in any other European city outside of Holland! Students are great for candid photography, although please don't assume all us Brits have this dress sense!<br>

I live just north of London and south of Cambridge on the main railway route between the two. If I can be of any help in planning your trip around those two cities, please mail me via photo.net and I'll do my best to help you out. If you want some suggestions I can do just that as I have toured and photographed these cities many times.<br>

My one word of caution, our weather isn't brilliant at this time of year so plan for lots of damp days, with flat lighting, ISO400 most of the time! This also means that some of the scenic stuff can look pretty miserable (there is nothing more bleak than Stonehenge in the rain - but on a summers day - wow).<br>

Some of the other suggestions are great, but bear in mind you don't want to be traveling more than picture taking. plan just 5-6 places and spend the whole day there. <br>

Of course, if you pluck up the courage to drive a car (don't panic - I find when I drive in Europe, the unfamiliarity makes me more alert, not less, and I tend to be a more law abiding driver!) Just explore the south of England, little towns, country pubs, back lanes - always something for your lens, but get a good map or hire a SatNav with the car. Salisbury cathedral is impressive and not a huge distance. Beaulieu Motor Museum - a MUST. Drive to Shaftesbury in Dorset to photograph the ultimate cliched 'chocolate box' english scene - Gold Hill.<br>

In some ways I envy you having 6 days to just spend on photography!!!!<br>

All the best and be sure to post you results on photo.net, once again any help wanted, just email.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have 4 CF cards ranging from 256MB to 2GB, never had one problem, first used in Canon, then in Olympus, now in a Fuji S5 Pro (Nikon guts) as well - never had a single problem, just reformated card when moved to different make of SLR, seemless, no issues. Two are Lexar, two are nondescript makes I've never heard of. All are solid as a rock.</p>

<p>Since my last post (yesterday) when I recommended you lot to get out and take more photos, I have shot over 150 frames, retouched about 15, printed 5 and am on to the next project. Yes, the work was done on a MacBook Pro running Bibble 4.10.1, with the odd bit of work on a Dell PC running Photoshop.<br>

Want to know my heretical solution for a happy life in the digital darkroom? Good composition, good focus, correct aperture and shutter speed, decent white balance - presto! Result = Not so many hours in front of an LCD screen!<br>

Please folks, dry this thread up now so we can see a few more threads on the homepage that are fresh.</p>

<p>I have to say this has turned into a totally pointless thread and I am sure the original question remains unanswered to the questioners satisfaction. Seems to me that we are all spending far to much time on computers and not out taking pictures (after all this is photo.net , not computeruser.net).<br>

SWITCH OFF THE COMPUTER AND GET OUT THERE WITH YOUR CAMERAS!</p>

 

<p>For me its simple. Buy the Mac. I have no bad words for PC's, I'm not an Apple 'Fanboy' but it simply is the case that Mac OS X crashes less, is faster and easier to use and much less complicated than Vista. I know as I use both (Vista laptop for work). I've had macs for my home computer for the last 9 years now - NO regrets. As regards the specification/price thing, sometimes you will see PC deals that appear to give you much more spec for your money, but once you investigate, you find that they give you no more performance. Simple - Mac OS X uses less processor power and RAM resources than XP or Vista, so the illusion of a faster processor on the PC is just that. Also, processor speed is not the only factor, cache sizes and bus rates are probably just as important. Macs generally have very generous specs in this area, hence their stellar performance for size of processor. Its a bit like having a Ferrari - all that power doesn't help if you are in a traffic jam, whilst the Ford station wagon zooms down the freeway!</p>

<p>I CANT WAIT - Although I will, so that market forces determine a more competitive price, perhaps in 6-12 months when hopefully supply will be better as well. (why do Nikon & others insist on launching products they can't deliver relative to demand?). Anyway, I am happy that Nikon is at last improving their prime offering, people are at last recognizing the superior optical and visual qualities of prime photography (something Pentax understands) over the plethora of zoom lenses that all offer quality compromises unless you are prepared to spend megabucks! This lens is a welcome addition, I will certainly be looking for one in the near future. </p>

<p>I don't know why people call the G series "Rangefinders' It would be far more accurate to refer to "Interchangeable lens AF Compact". The Leica M series does have classic status, but the system is VASTLY overpriced for what you get. They are a satisfying camera to hold and use. But the acid test of any camera is - can it take a good photograph? Undoubtably - but only as good as the photographer pressing the shutter release!!!!! - which goes for any camera you care to mention. Bottom line, use the tool you find personally best for you and get out, take some great pictures! Oh and just to add to the controversy, if Konica had taken up the Hexar range in anger, I personally believe it would have flattened the Leica. I owned one and sold it - and I now wish I hadn't, it was undoubtably one of the best 35mm cameras I have ever owned.</p>

Wow, I didnt think I would generate this many replies! It is refreshing to realize that it basically depends on your favorite subject matter. I read them all

guys and girls - fabulous (if slightly pointless) discussion - good innit?

 

I've decided on my 90 f2.8 macro for my favorite subjects: Portraits, low light concerts, the Red Arrows at air displays, macro and

still life, and studio photography. Fast, tack sharp, great contrast, nice bokeh. Zoom with your legs!

 

Assuming the thought police allow two cameras then a compact for the wide angles and the wife & kids!

I have often mused on this question. Seems it stems back to the days of my Praktica MTL5 + 50mm lens as a teenager. It was my only lens! And I took

some surprisingly good photos on it. I believe it was because the limitations made me work for every shot.

 

So, in the nightmarish future, the thought police have moved in, Big Brother IS watching you, and the Totalitarian State of Photographica decrees that

from this day forth everyone will only be allowed ONE lens for their camera, irrespective of the make.

 

What would be your choice?

 

On balance, I think a 50mm f1.8 or a 90mm f2.8 macro.

 

Lets have some ideas!

Nikon & Canon both make great cameras. Who is ahead at any one time is basically a matter of point scoring. I don't understand pros who dump swathes of perfectly good equipment to jump on the next manuafacturers band-wagon. Just because the latest camera has super high ISO performance or a zillion megapixels, doesn't consign the excellent camera you already own to the bin! I take weddings - recently after showing a prospective client some samples of my work they commented on how vibrant and film-like the pictures were. The bride -to-be said 'you must have the latest cameras' (You notice its never how good a photographer you are!). I smilled sweetly. These shots were taken on the Olympus E-1. On paper its a jurassic 5 megapixel dinosaur of a camera (as used by David Bailey & Lord Lichfield). Fine, if you are a sports photgrapher wanting ISO 64000 and the fastest AF in the world I understand you might want to keep pace, but for the rest of us its just not that critical. The law of diminishing returns applies here.

 

Oh, and watch Sony - they are probably the only company with the clout to take on Nikon & Canon, and with the new 24 MP 'full frame' Alpha 900 about to hit the shelves, plus their close association with Carl Zeiss, I predict in 3-5 years they will be one of the top 3 if not the top. All that excellent Minolta & Konica DNA shines through.

 

Oh, and for those interested I shoot with Olympus E-1 & E-3 & Zuiko glass, Fuji S5 Pro & Nikon glass. Not feeling the need to upgrade either, as this kit suits me fine just at the moment. Takes a damn fine photo too!

Wow - thanks guys, this just goes to show the value of photo.net! I will be following up all

your suggestions and will look into your websites as well.

I have been fascinated since childhood by the work of Harold (Doc) Edgerton, and the history of the high

speed strobe to achieve multiple image and incredibly fast exposure. The milk drop coronet, the golf

swing, the compressed rugby ball, the bullet through the apple/playingcard/balloon/you name it! I would

like to try some of these effects but finding strobscopic flash units to achieve this or very high speed flash

units (1/50,000 sec plus) with different triggering systems, seems impossible! <p>Does anyone know

where i can get (reasonable priced) equipment to suit (in the UK), and do you have experience and advice

for this kind of specialist photography?<p>My equipment is Olympus (OM for film, E1 for digital).

I have the Contax i4r. The images are not as good as those from my EOS300D with Canon L

lenses. And why on earth should they be? Bottom line - for a very compact, carry anywere

digital camera it is without equal. Yes, the imaging performance is not much better than any

other 4 MP compact, but it is on average half the physical size of its rivals, build is

sumptuous, and note that the 2.8 aperture lens can actually create visible shallow DOF!

Almost unheard of on compact digitals. As long as you dont have it as your only digital

camera, you will love it. And the design is the nearest thing to the Minox 'Spy camera' you'll

currently see. Looks great in top pocket of the tuxedo - just dont drop it in the Martini -

shaken, not stirred.

I've owned both. The Pentax is still with me. Medium Format's best kept secret is the

Pentax 645N & NII. No question in my mind, the Pentax beats the Mamiya hands

down. Period.

Not having the money for a MF film scanner, I am using my Epson flatbed for

scanning 8x10 prints hand printed from the negatives. Most of the negs

are Fuji NPS160/NPH400.

<p>

For best results, is it best to produce the photo print on gloss paper or a matte or

satin finish paper? Will this affect the accuracy of the scan? Do you use unsharp

masking when scanning or work with this later in Photoshop?

<p>

All helps and suggestions for wringing the very last bit of colour and detail out of a

print scan gratefully recieved.

<p>

Please do not (A) keep telling me to get a dedicated scanner - I can't afford it, and (B)

do not recommend drum scans of film etc - I know this is the best solution but I want

us to keep totally focused on the issues above.

To close this one - I have invested in 645. A Pentax 645N to be precise. I am just

bowled over by this camera, which appears to be the best kept secret in medium

format. Despite the lack of waist level finder, It has to be the lightest (with prism) and

best specified 645 SLR out there. It's small point admittedly, but even after taking in

the multi-pattern metering, the fast autofocus, the superb balance in the hand and

the compact prism, the thing that really did it for me was the TRIPOD BUSH ON THE

SIDE! I can't begin to think how much better it is with my manfrotto quick release

plates fitted NOT to have a heavy 645 hanging over the side of my tripod! Somone at

Pentax really thought about this camera. Oh well, sun's out, spring is here, time for

some Velvia...

<p>

I note in all this nobody came back to me about MF slide projectors...If anyone can

answer this part of the question I'd be grateful...

Oh and I forgot to mention I already have a Minolta Autometer V - thats my metering

requirement taken care of.

Lets narrow it down. I want:

 

SLR type with standard lens to start off with. All speeds flash synch (leaf

shutter). Waist level viewing (eg Pentax 645/Fuji etc is out). Compact and lightweight

(can be slung round my neck all day without permanent injury!). 99% Outdoor

landscape photos, 1% occasional wedding when asked (Mainly do digital - MF for a

few shots).

I am a long time amateur photographer who has a very well specified EOS digital kit,

which I am very satisfied with, and seems to cover most of my needs. However for

quality I would like to invest in medium format, but there are two very important

points to consider, it must be a system camera, and it must be small and comfortable

to hand hold. I love the anonymity of the waist level finder (and my waist is the best

anti-shake device (!) for a camera of this type).

 

I once owned a Bronica ETRS, and liked it very much. I also used to own an elderly but

very tidy Hasselblad 500CM that I loved (well, the body and lens - the backs were

troublesome b******s who leaked like sieves - before and after repair).

 

Basically do I buy a late ETRSi and put up with the pain of permanent landscape

format (note this is likely to be 99% of my pictures) or get an SQAi and enjoy 66

again? The ETRSi is super to handhold at waist height, but is the SQAi a lot bulkier?

how good is it to handhold like a 'Blad, left hand under camera and on shutter

release, right hand focus and wind?

 

I could go for another elderly 'Blad, but my past experience says no...

 

Second question, where could I get a reasonably priced MF projector to project slides

(in the UK)? Are any makes particularly good? I dont have a massive budget...

We visited my ageing but fit and spritely uncle Roy in August. My wife took her little

2MP digital camera. A couple of snaps of our six-month old daughter were taken

sitting on my uncle's lap. Two days later uncle Roy was dead after a sudden,

devastating heart attack.

 

The pictures are low resolution digital and of no particular photographic merit. To the

family they are some of the most precious we have taken.

 

The power of the Photograph lies in its ability to preserve for all time a precious

moment and memories of that which is dear to us, whether that be a relative, a

celebrity, an event or a landscape feature.

 

A Photograph has the power to move, to awe, to revulse, to inspire.

 

Digital, 35mm, MF, 5x4, Glass plate ets. - all are legitimate mediums of photographic

expression, and the march of time and technological innovation only serves to offer

different ways of arriving at the same point - the still image and its silent power.