bryn_price

The streets of Paris are wonderful to shoot. Just keep your camera out all the time. You never know when a nice shot will present itself. Plus with the city so full of toursits its very easy to get candids without anyone getting annoyed.<div></div>

Ok, tigger arrived on the weekend. And as Julian found it fires once then doesn't fire without being switched off, and on again. Covering the 4 pins got me no where, so It looks like I might have to rig up this high pass filter.

 

If anyone knows any that a pre-built (my soldering skills are not that great.) then please let me know...

Its not a huge amount of money so I'll grab one and see how I go. Thanks for all the advise. I'll post back to this thread once I've tried it.

I know this subject has been approached a number of times, and that

the nice freindly E-TTL pre-flash causes some issue. But hear me out

on this one.

 

I've currently got a main studio light fired from my Canon 10D via

sync cable, and have a slave that fires via its optical trigger. I'm

hoping to do some high key work and have a nice collabsible white

backgound with train on order. Therefore I'd like to get another flash

into my setup for a background light. So i was hoping to use my 420EX

on a tripod as a slave. And buy an optical trigger like this on on

ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3865695756&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

That would fire the 420EX when my main lights fire.

 

Will this work? Can the 420EX be triggered like this? I've heard that

the 420EX has extra prongs on the hotshoe base for data transfer

between camera and flash. Should I tape over these to just give the

flash a fire signal?

Swap the background/foreground colours, that way the difuse glow will go towards white rather than black ;)

You can get that effect on models skin in Photoshop. Play around with the Difuse Glow filter and a slight g.blur. Always do the filters on a duplicate layer, then you can tone down the effect through the opacity slider.

 

Bryn

They are great. Heres on of mine on a similar topic http://www.photo.net/photo/1632850

In Paris captured this nice couple. Only a shame it wasn't from the front, but I like her hand in his back pocket.

<img src="http://www.jroo.com/photoblog/archives/images/couple.jpg"/>

As mentioned above, its easy in photoshop. Dup the layer and do a gaussian blur, then use the history brush or eraser to remove the blur around the face. Then i think you'll find they have also done a diffuse glow to blow the highlights slightly.

I visited it last night and found it offered someone of my level the information that i wanted. Technical details. I've often seen awards, and photo comps, and wondered 'how did they do that' Or 'i wonder what exposure they used'. The listing of equipment and exposure on most images was great. I also strongly agree with Mikes comments above about the junior entries. The equipment they were using was very expensive. EOS 3's with 600mm lens etc.

I've got a 10D, and due to the <35mm sensor, my 28mm becomes 1.6x

longer. Therefore i'm looking for a cheap way to get a wide angle or

fish eye lens. I simply can't afford a nice 17mm. Can any of you

suggest a cheaper brand with Canon thread, another option, eg are

their filters like in video photography that create a fisheye / wide

angle effect?

I've not got a suggestion to overcome the problem, other than the ones you've already mentioned. But i would like to add that LCD screens (I've got one myself) unfortunatly have problems with darker colours, hense the higher brightness. They can't deferenciate between really dark colours and black, and hence a large number of low light photos will loose the colur definition in the darker areas, and it will appear black.

I've had my 10D for 5 weeks now, and noticed a large number of black

dots when shooting a f16-f22. I've come to belive that this is due to

dust on the CCD (its going to Canon tomorrow to be cleaned.. 3 weeks

without my camera). Now i suspect this has come from the store demoing

the camera, and changing lenses often. but could also have been myself

changing lenses trackside (at motorsport events). How do you avoid

dust getting into the CCD. I've never had a problem with my film based

EOS's. I always have the camera off, and facing down during changes.

Any other tips for keeping my CCD clean and clear.<div></div>