bob dubois

<p>Hi Steve,<br>

As I understand it, there are two types of "problems" with the M8. The first being actual defects related to the electronics of cameras produced early in th M8's production run. These included electronics failures such as cameras which suddenly stopped working and sensor problems such as "green blobs" and lines of hot pixels across the sensor. <br>

The second category of what many people have complained of as problems; the need to use IR Cut filters to avoid color casts and the need to code lenses to avoid cyan drift caused by the filters are, in my opinion, characteristics of the camera. I don't consider them to be defects any more than I do the weight of a pro level DSLR or the relatively high level of vignetting of the Nikon 70-200 f:2.8 V.R. They are what they are.<br>

If you think the M8's strong points; "knock your socks off " image quality, compact size and light weight are worth it, buy the camera and work around these issues. Is the M8 all that it should be for the price? Not for me at the price it was when it was first introduced. Used, at current prices? Not really, but its strong points make up for the high price and character flaws. <br>

If you can find a used M8 that the seller claims works, I wouldn't be too concerned about the former. ( I own two used M8s. both perform flawlessly and unless I need telephoto, macro or high ISO sensitivity, I greatly prefer them to my Nikon D 700). <br>

As far as the second category is concerned, if you're going to shoot color, you'll need to buy IR cut filters for your lenses. However, it's not necessary to buy new, coded Leica lenses. (In fact, the only Leica item I've bought new are a couple of extra batteries.) I own a total of nine Voigtlander, Zeiss and Leica lenses ranging from 15 to 135mm all of which I've durably hand coded using an M-Coder kit and a Dremel tool. All of the lenses are recognized by both bodies. However, It did take a lot of fine tuning to get those little dots in the right place to work on both (I'm more a get it done quickly rather than precisely kind of mechanic). Also, many users claim that there's no practical need to code 35mm and longer lenses. Although I did code all my lenses, from my experience, I'm inclined t agree with that.<br>

I hope this admittedly limited information helps with your decision.<br>

Regards,<br>

Bob</p>

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<p>Hi Neil,<br>

I use a Kenessis telephoto bag for my 500, f:4. with the sling attached at the top on one side and at the bottom on the other. I sling the bag diagonally. My tripod is on a sling going the opposite direction over the lens bag. It seems like they would get in the way of each other but for me (6'1" tall) they don't. This lets me unsling the tripod first then the lens, all without needing to remove the lens case from my back. This is much faster than my previous practice of using a backpack.<br>

Regards,<br>

Bob</p>

<p>Hi Robert,<br />I have the earlier version with the heavily scalloped focus ring and the Series VII filter. The outside diameter of the lens hood is 64mm. The filter retaining ring is not threaded on the outside so if you have that version a screw on or push on cap is not an option. If you can't find an original, you may want to consider: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=search&A=search&Q=&sb=bs%2Cupper%28ds%29&sq=asc&sortDrop=Brand%3A+A+to+Z&ac=&bsi=&bhs=t&shs=&ci=297&at=Type_Push-On&at=Diameter_64mm&basicSubmit=Submit+Query">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=search&A=search&Q=&sb=bs%2Cupper%28ds%29&sq=asc&sortDrop=Brand%3A+A+to+Z&ac=&bsi=&bhs=t&shs=&ci=297&at=Type_Push-On&at=Diameter_64mm&basicSubmit=Submit+Query</a> from B&H. Not as nice as the original but should be functional.<br />Regards,<br />Bob</p>

<p>Hi Mark,<br>

1. I don't have a 28 but I have a 35 Summilux and a 35 CV f:2.5. Neither have any particular problems or quirks on either my M8 or Epson R-D1. The 35 is closer to the field of view of a 50mm lens on 35mm. You may also want to consider the CV 40mm 1.4.<br>

2. The filters are needed to correct for color shift observed in certain synthetic fabrics. Unfortunately, they cause another problem, a cyan color shift at the periphery of the frame. The amount of this varies from lens to lens and is more prevalent in wide angle lenses. This is sometimes referred to as cyan drift. If you have coded lenses, the camera firmware will correct for this. Otherwise there are post processing techniques which I haven't used but understand work quite well.<br>

3. Lenses can be hand coded with a black marker pen. There are a couple of template kits commercially available and some you can download from the net and print on card stock. I've used the M-Coder to hand code five lenses successfully. The problem with hand coding is that the ink will rub off over time. My solution was to use a Dremel tool with a diamond bit to mill indentions in the spaces where the black code marks are and then fill in the indentations with black acrylic paint. Not difficult if you have a relatively steady hand. I have one more lens to do I'll post a step by step tutorial on my web site in a few weeks.<br>

4. Sorry, no experience with R-lens<br>

Hope this is helpful.<br>

Regards<br>

Bob</p>

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Hi Andrew,

You should be able to get a nice M series with a lens and meter within your $1500 budget. I got a very nice M-3 on e-Bay from Henry's in Toronto for under $450. It was better than described ( a few nicks in the chrome on the base plate but otherwise very clean, bright finder and the shutter seems accurate with transparencies). I also picked up a 50mm Dual Range Summicron (without the goggles which allow it to focus closer than the normal 0.7m) on e-Bay for $445. It is absolutely pristine, and I am very pleased with the its rendering. Finally, I bought an MR meter from KEH for about $90. (Either it is still spot on or the M's shutter is equally off. I also bought a current generation 50 Chron which I use on my R-D1 on e-Bay for around $600. (I bought the DR because i wanted a vintage lens for the M-3 event though the current lens renders with a tiny bit more contrast.) I also previously owned the CV 50mm 1.5 which was part of a Bessa R kit I sold when i converted to digital some years ago. I agree strongly with Christopher; it is probably the best value in leica compatable lenses on the market.

 

This is my second M-3. I owned one years ago as a PJ student but had to sell it when the post graduation realities of rent, car payments and low wages forced a choice of selling the Leica or bank robbery. I agree with you that the Leica Ms (except for the M-5) are design perfection.

 

My advice: be patient, look at e-Bay and the reputable on-line stores.

 

Good luck

 

Bob

Not anymore. My M3 arrived on Monday. It will join my venerable Nikon FTn as an occassional shooter. Like you I had previously owned a Leica. In my experience, rangefinder cameras encourage a different style of shooting than SLRs. I regretting selling my modest Bessa R kit when I switched to digital a few years back and recently picked up a used Epson R-D1. This led to the purchase of some used Leica glass, and coming full circle to an M3 similar to the one I owned in the mid 70's. I think the M series Leicas are among the most beautifully designed cameras ever made. There's probably more emotion than logic in that purchase but It pleases me. My wife doesn't understand but hopes this will help speed the disappearence of the last of the outdated Provia from the shelf in the freezer door.

Regards

Bob

Hi Chris,

If you can find a good one used, I recommend the Summilux, I recently picked up a used one (circa 1969) for a little under a grand. I think it's a fantastic lens. It's pretty sharp even wide open and very much so by f:2. It's my second recent 35mm. I bought a new C-V 35mm f:2.5 P2 to make sure the used R-D1 I had just bought was working. Then I made the tragic mistake of buying a used but recent 50mm 'cron. The Leica glass is just a little bit better than anything else I've ever used. The CV is sitting in my cabinet and I only expect for it to come out of the box if the 'lux goes into the shop for a CLA. Now, I'm spoiled and to the detrement of my bank account, more Leica glass has followed.

That said, I don't think you can go wrong with either C-V (I once owned the 35.classic, the 50 Nokton and the 75 for use on a Bessa) or the Zeiss ( I currently have the Biogon 21mm f:2.8 and I suspect the 35 is equally good).

Best of luck with your search.

Bob

Hi Lou,

I use this lens on a D-70 and D-200 with a Bogen/Manfrotto 488 ballhead with a RRS clamp on Bogen 3021 legs. Given the crop factor of the digital cameras, any weakness in the support system would be more obvious than with a 35mm set up. I get good results but the set- up does require good long lens technique. I'm not sure how much the RRS clamp and lens plate contribute but the head can be had at B&H for under $90.

I'm sure you'll find the lens is great.

Bob

Hi Nathan,

The depth rating isn't really the issue. The "G" is fine for recreational depths. My wife uses one on her S-75 with a Canon housing and has gotten some nice diver portraits and reef fish shots. The biggest limitations are its limited output and the fixed bracket/handle. In many situations, to avoid backscatter (reflections off minute particles suspended in the water) you need to get the flash off the camera and feather the cone of light across the subject. To do that, you can jury-rig some kind of quick-release or if you expect to get in deeper, buy an articulated arm (which will cost as much as the "G" itself). Unfortunately, UW shooting is expensive and addictive. But what the heck, you can always use the arm on one of the twin strobes you'll ultimately buy for the dome- port housed DSLR that you will just have to buy:-) That said, the "G" is a good match for a small housed digicam and a great way for you to get your feet wet. Not to mention, it makes a great strobe for sea kayaking and other potentially wet shooting situations.

I hope your trip to Coz isn't too soon. From what I've seen on the TV news it looks like they really got hammered down there.

Good luck.

Bob

I did a similar trip in 2001.

 

I agree with the advice to get a second body if you can.

 

On Kili, I carried a large Lowe backpack with an N8008, an F100, a 35-70, a 20 and an 80-200 a mini tripod, a full-size tripod, some close-up lenses and (polarizer and grad ND) filters along with other odds and ends. For the summit day, I left the pack in camp and carried the two bodies, one with the 20 and the other with the 35-70, slung across my chest. It is cold, so you should be prepared to shoot wearing gloves. If your camera will take them, lithium batteries have better cold weather performance.

 

On Safari, I was fortunate to have the whole bench seat at the rear of the Range Rover to myself. I was able to lash my tripod to the seats so that I had a stable camera support sticking through the roof hatch. QR plates allowed me to pull the camera inside while on the road and switch bodies easily. My advice is to bring the longest lens that you can afford to buy, rent or borrow. I had a 1000mm Reflex, a 300mm f:4 w/1.4 and 2X TCs. along with the lenses above. There are a few shots in the landscape and wildlife galleries on my web site.

 

Feel free to e-mail me if you'd like more info.

 

Bob

The Amish country around Lancaster has some really unique photo opps.

You can't go wrong (unless-and I'm speaking from experience here, you don't get the film leader into the take-up spool)

I found the Nikon wireless remote trigger awkward to use from behind the camera. So, I bought the VG-D70 to enable use of a wired remote without modifying the camera. It works great. Since I tend to use manual focus on the tripod, I don't miss the lack of the half-press function through the remote. (I think you can still focus and meter using the half press function on the camera body and engage EL and Focus lock if you choose to) I thought that I'd only use it for tripod work. However, once I began to shoot with it on the camera I found it made a substantial improvement in the way the camera fits my hands and in its balance with bigger lenses like the 80-200 f:2.8. I haven't taken it off since I got it.

 

Once my D-70s are out of warrenty I plan to send them both to Harbortronics for the body modification. Not sure if I'll purchase another grip or not.

Hi John,

The TC-16A has excellent optical quality. It allows auto-focus within a limited range. You manually achieve course focus and the TC-16A will allow the camera's AF system to finish the job. It's really less cumbersome in use than it sounds and works just fine. I used it with good results on an N8008s and an F-100 with a 135mm f:2.8 and a 300mm f:4.

Regards,

Bob

As a result of your post I pulled out my entire collection of AF lenses which consists of: a 12-24 f:4; an 18-70 f:3.5-4.5;a 60mm f:2.8 micro; an 80-200 f:2.8 and a 300mm f:4, along with 1.4 and 2X Tamron SP 300 TCs, two D-70's my tripod and my grand daughter's trusted teddy bear. I focused on teddy's left eye and shot wide open, at f:11 and fully stopped down for each of the lenses. I shot the zooms at shortest, middle and longest focal length. I also shot the 300 with the TCs. In each case I was at or close to, the minimum focus distance for the lens. In every case, teddy's eye was in best focus. Surprisingly though, the 80-200 seemed to be the softest overall. Since I don't have a remote release, camera shake may have been an issue, especially at the longer exposures. (I was shooting by north light on a rainy November afternoon in the northeast)That notwithstanding, I don't see any focus problem across the range of lenses I own on either body.

If it will be the only lens he has (at least for now) I'd also recommend the kit lens. It really is very impressive. It's quite sharp, even wide open and at close focusing distance, has a wide zoom range, a close minimum focus, and being AF-S, is very quick to focus.

I've owned the 300 mm f4 AF (not S) and a pair of Kenko SP 300 converters (1.4X and 2X) for some time. The 1.4x is excellent. The 2x is very, very good. (my experience is similar to reviews of Nikon TCs that I've seen.)Both of my converters transmit all info necessary for AF and exposure control. I've used them extensively on an N8008s and an F-100.

 

I just bought a couple of D-70s. The first thing I did was set up my tripod and do some test shots with all my lenses. Everything worked just fine, so I think you can be comfortable with either the Kenko or the higher end Tamron which I understand is the same.

 

Good luck,

 

Bob

You may want to consider either the Umax Powerlook series or the equivalent models from Microtek. Both are professional level in terms of build and optical quality and have a relatively high dynamic range. In either case I recommend alternative scanning software. Buy the scanner and compare demos. I got better results from my Powerlook with Viewscan than with one of the more expensive programs I demoed. However either was better than the Umax software. YMMV.