melvin_bressler

Hi: I notice you don't mention price. I got a flyer from Tamarkin saying it would be ready in November, and would cost about US $5,000.

Happy snaps

I'm not trying to be the grammar police, but many posters use the

word "discrete" which means separate or individual, when I think they

mean "discreet" which means prudent or circumspect, and sometimes

confidential (read "street shooter").

Is it different in other english speaking countries?

Sorry, I can't help myself.

OK Nemo, here's my take:

Calm: when you think about the wonderful shot you are about to take

Agitate: when you see the actual result

Calm: when you decide to get that piece of equipment you "really" need.

agitate: when you find out the cost

calm: when you finally get it 'right' on your exposure time and development etc.

agitate: when that pertucular film is "improved" or discontinued.

calm: when your with other leicaphiles taking shots

agitate: when you think all their shots are better than all of yours

calm: when you're getting ready to go out and shoot, and you are gettting all your equipment ready.

agitate: when you get there and find you forgot film

calm: when you finally get that one camera, lens, gadget, whatever, that you have always wanted.

agitate: when you realize your pictures are still the same.

and finally, calm: when you realize everyone else (almost) makes the same dumb mistakes listed above, + a few you haven't yet experienced, and you learn to live with it.

Happy snaps.

Bob:

I have the 28/35, and its pretty much as advertised. Small, apparently well built, bright image. I use it for my screw mount Leica and my Bessa L.

But, if you wear glasses, its a little fussy. Composing using the whole frame is sometimes difficult. And, the 35 mm bright lines are very close to the 28 mm bright line and sometimes disappear. If you use it mostly for a 28 mm, and only occasionally for 35 mm you'll have no trouble.

Happy snaps

Marcus:

I think Ronald Moravec just about nailed it. I was with a friend shooting with my M4, he with an M6. Then for kicks, we switched. I could feel the difference after the first shot. Not a whole lot to do with quality of the pictures you take, but a difference nevertheless.

The difference bewtween an M4 and M7 is even greater not only because of the film advance, but because the shutter release works a little stiffer to accomodate the meter and auto exposure.

Happy snaps.

Help:

I am changing both computers (MAC for PC) and internet providers. As

a member (1) how do I change my 'address' on this forum?

(2) Can I keep my 'old' address on the old (PC) machine and use the

new one?

Thanks, MB

Grant:

I have the 90 mm AA, and it blows me away. Yes its sharp, but I have no trouble focussing or carrying it. Of course, hand holding at anything less that 1/125 for me is a risk, but that is generally true of all longer lenses. Besides I like to shoot at 2.0 or 2.8, and I love the slightly OOF backgrounds (Bokeh?) with that lens.

Happy snaps

Fred:

Here are two methods that work for me: (1) Get a grey card, cut it half and half again, you will have four cards, each 4x5. Put one in your bag or pocket. Aim the camera at the subject, and stick the card in front of the lens ( a few inches in front)to get a general reading by slightly depressing the release button, and extrapolate from that with the "zone method"

(2) Meter the darkest and lightest parts of the scene using the camera as a meter, as above (i.e., get close). If the ratio is 8:1 or less (three stops)don't worry about it, bracket a stop or half stop in each direction starting with whatever the camera reads when you are ready to shoot and you'll almost never fail.

But, if the light-dark ratio is over 8:1, you've got a problem. Try starting with the camera reading as a base, and bracket UP one and two stops (more light -- over expose the "normal" reading) The rest is trial and error and experience.

Happy snaps.

Dan:

Thanks, useful guide, BUT, prices change rapidly, and especially when dealing with Leica glass, condition can be everything.

You list two versions of the Elmar 50/2.8. What is the difference between the two??

Happy snaps.

John:

Bummer. Does the seller live anywhere near you, I mean like within a few hundred miles?

I too got stuck with a "near mint" camera. After I got it, and recovered from my heart palpitations, contacted the seller, and like you got zilch. I sent it to DAG who gave me a $425 estimate. The seller lived in another state, about 550 miles away.

I was royally ticked, so I sued him, by mail in small claims court in his home town. It cost $50, filing fee, and they serve the papers on him. Fortunately I had his home address. That got his attention. He finally coughed up $200. and I took it and dropped the suit.

I figured I was out about $275,(425 + 50 - 200 = 275) but I now really had a near mint camera. That was about 2 yeara ago, the last time I used e- ***, and the camera still works fine.

BTW, I took pictures before sending it to DAG for proof.

Happy snaps.

Nicolas:

The collapsible Summicron is a fine lens. Be prepared to have it cleaned though.

I use a Canon EOS 3, a 7e, and an M3, M4 and M7. There are serious differences in the use of SLRs and Leicas. First, as to the M3, film loading is a pain, and it has no view frame for 35 mm lenses (50, 90 & 135, only). On the other hand, if you like longer lenses, the M3 VF is superb. Here too, budget a CLA.

Leicas have major advantages over SLRs. They are smaller, lighter, and less obtrusive. Focussing in low light is not a problem; the lenses are superb, even the older ones; there is no vibration from the mirror (sometimes referred to as 'mirror slap').

SLRs of course are easier to load and unload, and more flexible (i.e., zoom lenses, fully automatic everything, etc.)

If you enjoy the act of picture taking, you will quickly learn to love your Leica. Go for it, and enjoy.

Happy snaps.

Hi:

I previously asked why my Vivitar 285 flash wouldn't work on my M7

off camera. Thanks to everyone for their helpful comments.

Solution was simple: the cord didn't work. Never heard of that

before. Went into the shop, and he put a new one on, and it worked

fine. He tested the cord on one of their cameras, and it didn't work

there either. He gave me the new one. Wish everything was that

simple.

Meanwhile, based on some of the earlier responses, I'm going to get a

Stroboframe with an extension cord, more for my SLRs, but probably

for the Leicas also.

Happy snaps.

Hi all:

Bought a Minolta CLE. Really like it, but it is tiny.

I: Does anyone know where I can get some sort of ever ready case that

will fit. Needn't be expressly for that camera.

II: The strap lugs do not have those clip thingies that take a

strap. Are they avaiable, or some reasonable substitute. Would I be

crazy to just use paper clips and attach the strap to the clips ??

III: I have a 90 cron AA. Is there any reason not to use it. It

blocks a portion of the VF, but I can live with that, and it fits and

focuses fine.

IV: Has anyone used the metal shades and cap that Camerquest sells

for this camera? Any comments?

Thanks.

Marc:

The H in LHSA stands for 'historical' and that's what originally was the driving force behind the organization.

But, most (not all) of the members are avid photographers, and usually go through a few rolls of film every week. The magazine still has a bias for 'historical' articles, but the orgainzation is in a state of flux, and is starting to emphasize technique and "how to" more frequently.

You should join, at least for a year. Its $60., which includes the quarterly magazine, and you are just in time for the annual meeting at Williamsburgh, Va. on Oct. 28-30.

That's quite a trip from LA, but they alternate meetings between the coasts; the last meeting was in Seattle. All the meetings that I have attended have been very well organized, and usually informative too. When the MP was introduced, a Leica factory rep came to the meeting and showed us the camera and gave a demonstration and analysis of its use, new parts, etc.

As for this group, from the other posts over time, it appears to be very sociable, but you may have hit a 'dead time' or maybe there just aren't that many members in and around LA who like picnics. Try a no spouse 'shoot' to Catalina or Tiajuana and see what kind of response you get. But give me a month's notice, its a long trip for me (2700 mi.).

Happy snaps.

Eric:

I don't do weddings but I do a lot of theater work, usually with low lighting, which is why I like Leica & the fast lenses. I'm no kid, and this works for me.

1) Get a grip or a Luigi half case with built in grip.

2) Use a "softie" from Tom Abrahamsson. this is controversial, because some users don't like it, but it works for me.

3) Get a lens holder, the type that attaches to the tripod screw and has a bayonet mount for holding a lens. Use the "other" lens as a grip.

4) Learn to brace yourself. when I shoot below 1/250, I keep my elbows in, particularly my right elbow, I keep my back straight, and my weight as much over my hips as possible, with one leg slightly behind the other. I know this sounds weird, but it isn't, and no one notices anyway.

5) Learn to press the camera with your left hand against your forehead and use the ball of your finger and press straight down on the center of the softie.

FWIW, I took four shots of my wife and grandson with a 90 mm, 2.0 at 1/30, at about 6-8 feet. Two were OK, and the other two blew up to almost 8x10 and are still sharp.

Finally, you probably figured this out yourself, grab several

"candid" shots early on with the SLR as insurance, then switch to the Leica.

Happy snaps.

Thanks, everyone for the help. Ben, yes I have an M3, but never used it for flash. DAG offered to convert it last time it was cleaned, but I declined.

Rolf: Two good suggestions, I may go that route, BUT the M4 hs no hot shoe. Will the Vivitar SC work? Same for the Contax cord.

I noticed that both the flash cord, as it is now, and the cameras' sockets seem to be female connectors. I may have lost a part of my flash cord. I will check out a new one at the retailers.

Happy snaps.

I own a Vivatar 285, recent version. I never used it with my M7

until today. After a few shots, I wanted to hold the flash off the

camera, instead of using the accessory shoe, and found that the cord

supplied with the 285 does not fit the M7 nor my M4, although the M4

has two flash outlets.

Is there another cord I'm supposed to use with a different

connector? Where do I get such an animal? What do I ask for.

As long as we are on this subject, are longer cords available?

where, etc. Thanks.

Happy snaps.

Stuart:

WElcome to the forum, and to the weird world of Leicaphiles. I'll let you in on a secret: when you shoot pictires, you can't see the camera, only the subjects can, so ask them what they think. I bet you get wome intersting answers.

More seriously, I found that when I shoot indoors, a 35 mm works best, but outdoors, even with street photography, a 50 mm or even 90 works for me.

Happy snaps.

Charles:

Follow up to the take up spool problem. There are different 'sizes' of spool, but the diffferences are very minor, and apparently all spools will fit all "Barnack" cameras, except perhaps the IIIg. The numbers I gave you are accurate.

I endorse the later advice you got to use it and enjoy it

Happy snaps.

Charles:

If it is a Leica, then its not a III, they all had top speed of 1/1000. Look at the back: are the VF and RF windows together or separated by about 1/4 inch. If separate, its probably a IIa or earlier. If together, then its probably a IIb.

Take a look at the accessory shoe: are there three screws or four? If four, it could be a IIc, rare and not a bad "user."

As to the take up spool, good luck. They are impossible to find. Worse, there are two sizes, one for IIIb and earlier, and one for later models, which were slightly wider.

Send it to DAG, in the US [dagcam@chorus.net]. He may also be able to get you the proper spool. BTW, if you can get to Solms or perhaps a large camera store in Germany, the PN for the spool for the earlier models is 14021. No idea what the later model PN is, but maybe 14022 or 14192. They are expensive, maybe $40. US.

I have a IIIa, and my serial no. is higher than yours, so who knows.

Happy snaps.

Marc:

One other thing: take a good look at what was done in prior years to see what works and what doesn't. Get a feel for what the director likes.

Happy snaps.

Marc

1. Got to rehearsals, especially a dress rehersal. Shoot test shots for color, film choice, etc. You also have more flexibility at rehearsals as to where you can stand shoot, etc.

2. Shoot mucho 'head' shots even at rehearsals. But, understand that by 'head shots' I mean waist up, as close as you can get, composed so that the action of the play is clear.

3. Cameras? Probably an SLR with at least one zoom lens, and if Leica, 50 and 90 mm because you won't be too close.

4. Ask the Director if you can shoot some posed shots at a dress rehearsal, and get as many as you can, probably with the Leicas. For these shots,think about a 35 mm also.

5. Take shots of the Director, directing (i.e., with the kids, during rehearsal). Also take shots of the other workers or volunteers, and give them prints.

6. Find out where you will be permitted to shoot during the actual show, and familiarize yourself with the possibilities.

7. If they have a full production rehearsal, with full lighting, get up there and take meter readings everywhere, and record them. Don't be afraid to talk to the lighting guys before the show, but don't get in their way.

8. If the parents show up for the rehearsals, shoot them with their kids in costume.

9. This is NOT a photo contest. If the parents can recognize their kids, you are successful.

10. During the show, take some shots from the rear of the theater, probably with a tripod, showing the full stage, preferably with a lot of kids on the stage. You can crop if necessary later.

Good luck.

Happy snaps.

I just became a grandfather. All four grandparents and the parents

are camera buffs, five are film and one is digital. We film types

promise to personally make Kodak profitable for at least the next six

months. The digital rebel (no pun intended) promises to help by

using Ophoto.

Happy snaps

I don't want to get in to this dispute concerning the photograph of the woman looking at the flowers. It's an interesting street shot, but, the caption of the thread is another matter. What if the woman sues for libel, which is holding someone up to undeserved ridicule? It wouldn't be a laughing matter.

Happy snaps.