Rich_Phelan

<p>I managed to get 132,400 snaps on a 20D before the shutter gave out (it was rated at 50-60,000). I sent it in to Canon for repair (they gave me the actuation number) and the cost to repair was the same as a Rebel XT - so I bought the Rebel that now has about 100,000 snaps. I also have a Rebel XTi that has over 60,000 actuations that I've handed down to my daughter. I'm now using a 50D and hope to get over 200k with it.</p>

<p>One more thing to check - is the head tilted down from it's normal position?</p>

<p>White balance?</p>

<p>If you can stand looking at yet some more examples:<br>

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=879100<br>

and my favorite:<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/8315276<br>

All done with Photoshop CS2 or higher and between four to seven shots. What comes out of the processing when converting from 32 to 16 bit usually looks very flat but has all of the exposure range that I want. Then with proper curve modifications and some (or a LOT of) dodging and burning I can achieve the looks that you see in the gallery. I've started to play with Photomatix and while it's easier and quicker I'm not to the point where I can get the look that I want that I could with PS.<br>

As for the cartoon look - I think that you could get that with any image in Photoshop. It doesn't necessarily have to start out as an HDR.</p>

<p>I have Vista and this is what worked for my 4800:<br>

Start Menu / Settings / Printers / right click on 4800 / properties / Printing Preferences / Utility tab / Monitoring Preferences / Select Shortcut Icon - check the box for Shortcut Icon<br>

This placed the icon in my system tray and allowes me to bring up the status monitor.</p>

<p>I've installed the update and both Lightroom 2.2 and CS4 read the new raw files just fine. No problems.</p>

It is now possible to calibrate multiple monitors with Windows! There is a Professional

Photography section of Windows XP that has a new control panel applet. Click <a href="http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/digitalphotography/prophoto/colorcontrol.mspx" target="_blank">here</a>

for the information.

Consider this: If everyone only purchased from online stores then all of the local shops would disappear. Where would be be then? I support a couple of local shops that come very close to online prices. The additional cost I feel that I make up in customer service and the ability to actually try out the gear before parting with all of that money. I also have an actual person to engage in (gasp) conversation and a meaningful exchange of opinions about equipment and techniques. Try that with www...?

The screws holding the plate down on my OCSC2 loosen up after a while and I have to tighten them down. The article you mention is correct in how to slide off the covering plate to get to the 4 screws to tighten them down. Here's a quick shot of the exposed screws.

This happened to me a few months ago. Even with the camera turned off it would randomly fire and then start firing 'like a machine gun'. I sent it in and they replaced the shutter.

I have both and like the performance of the Canon much better. I shoot a lot of outdoor panoramics and the lack of flare with the Canon is wonderful. I'll keep the Sigma to use on my film bodies, however. Another plus for the Canon is the faster focusing speed.

No one (except Canon) knows for sure. There have been threads on the count for the 10D and 20D but the methods that they use never work for either of my cameras. Canon knows but isn't telling.

To be fair, there are several threads over somewhere else where the success/failure has been tracked. So far, the failures are very few. Decide for yourself.<br>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=10545408" target="_blank">part 1</a><br>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=10550955" target="_blank">part 2</a><br>

I'll stick my head out here as I think I'm a fairly savvy user. I've had Elan's and a 10D and now the 20D. Yes I've had the 20D lock up, but then I've <i>also had the 10D lock up</i>. You reboot the computer - er that's camera - by removing the battery (yes even for the 10D) and life goes on.<p>What's getting me is that I'm getting the impression that some people expect everything to be absolutely perfect and nothing ever is. Everything has it warts. Either you learn to deal with them and move on or you make yourself (and occasionally others) crazy.<p>Overall I'm loving the 20D. Far better camera than the 10D. I won't pick up a 1D of any flavor - just too tempting if I did. The 20D does everything that I want and I put 10,000 images through my camera every month (real estate photography).<p>As to the topic at hand, yes the 20D is smaller and lighter and I like the smaller size. I don't have the biggest hands and the 20D fits well. I also will use the grip when needed and like it as well. No, it doesn't fit as well as the grip for the 10D, but it works.<p>While I do appreciate all of the 'noise' that has created a speedy update from Canon, I wish they would get on with it and get back to taking pictures.

Look at the reflection in her eye - a softbox to the left.

And another satisfied upgrade here as well.<p>

Just in case you don't remember it or can't find the link:<br>

 

<a href="http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/eos20d/eos20d_firmware-e.html" target="_blank">http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/eos20d/eos20d_firmware-e.html</a>

<p>

As usual, check the BeBit site for future updates:<br>

<a href="http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/BeBit-e.html" target="_blank">http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/BeBit-e.html</a>

Right / Right, with both eyes open. I find that if I close my left eye, after a while it doesn't focus as well as the right one and things get a little fuzzy.

You can find it here: <a /href="http://www.powershot.com/powershot2/customer/manual.html" target="_blank">http://www.powershot.com/powershot2/customer/manual.html</a>

According to the <a href="http://www.canoneos.com/syschart081103.pdf" target="_blank">EOS system chart</a> the LC-4 will work. <a href="http://www.adorama.com/CALC4.html?searchinfo=canon%20lc-4&item_no=1" target="_blank">Here it is</a> on Adorama.

Kevin - To get to the embedded jpg files, you can use ZoomBrowser that came with your camera. From within ZB, select a file, then View & Modify, Process RAW Images, then under File / Save File / Extract Save JPEG. I prefer to use <a href="http://www.breezesys.com">BreezeBrowser</a> to view, convert, and extract and generate html pages for my images.

The best resolution 3D images are taken with normal images taken a few inches appart, printed at about 3"x5" then viewed with a special viewer. I've see the attachments that go on the front of the camera and the images just aren't as sharp. Check out <a href="http://www.berezin.com/3d">Berezin</a> for lots of viewers and other 3D accessories. They do have an <a href="http://www.berezin.com/3d/3d_lens.htm">attachment for a 10D</a> if you want one.

Tom - I'm also an owner of a 10D and for months I was manualy downloading and sorting my files on disk. Then I tried another of Breeze Systems products - <a href="http://www.breezesys.com/Downloader/index.htm">Downloader Pro</a>. This program has the ability to automatically file and rename the files as it copies the files from your flash. This is the first program I use after I shoot with BB the second for reviewing the images. I also use C1LE for RAW processing as I like the colors better than CS.<p>As for the practical difference between SE and LE I do occasionally run up against the 20 image limit of LE so SE would be nice. I'll usually just let it crank on the images and do something else until there's room for more conversions. There's always something else to be done!

<em>"WB settings don't do very well with a mix of tungsten, daylight and built-in fill flash."</em><br>Very true! You have three different color temperatures present. If you set your camera for one then the parts of your shot that are covered by the other light sources will look off color - it's a no win situation. I shoot 95% of my shots in RAW with auto white balance and then correct when processing the RAW if I don't like the imbedded jpeg. Shooting in mixed light is a really tough problem. Good luck!

Depending on just how much you want it to act like a studio strobe you may want to disable the E-TTL pre-flash by setting custom function #3 on the flash.

I've a 10D and have the same problem with the back LCD. It's pretty much only good to check the composition of the shot. What is really useful is the histogram that you can display (preview with info) that will show you if you got the exposure right. Luminous Landscape has a very good tutorial on <a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml">understanding histograms</a>.