lyle_waisman

Click on the destination layer.

Drag the mask from the source layer to the 'Add layer mask' icon at the bottom of the layers pallete.

For a complement, select the mask you just added, Image>Adjustments>Invert.

I have the Topload Zoom Pro AW. My F100 was a bit tight with the grip and an 80-200 AF-S, but it did fit. I have not tried it with the 70-200 AF-S VR yet. I love Lowe bags, but they tend to really exaggerate what their bags can hold, so I wouldn't take their word for it without trying to fit your gear in person.

I use a Magnum Pro AW for my standard kit. Their website says it will hold "2 pro SLRs with attached lenses, 4-5 additional lenses, pro flash and accessories." Mine currently fits two bodies (without lenses), two lenses, a TC, and a flash, and it's FULL.

I came across a case recently, made specifically to hold larger

reflectors for strobe heads. It was roughly 15" square by about 5

inches deep.

<BR><BR>

Now that I am looking to buy some larger reflectors, I cannot find

this information again. I've looked at the Tenba/Lightware/etc. sites,

and cannot locate this case to save my life.

<BR><BR>

Does anyone know who makes this??

<BR><BR>

Thanks

I don't think you can do this in LE...

The proper way:

<BR><BR>

If you simply want to have an elliptical image area, select the round marquee tool, draw your selection, click on the 'add layer mask' in the layers palette.

<BR><BR>

The above will only give you an elliptical image, but it will still in a square (or rect.) bounding box, so it will not be able to be overlaid on other images. If you need to export the image to actually be in an elliptical frame:

<BR>

<OL>

<LI>Draw the selection as before.</LI>

<LI>Select 'make work path' in paths palette.</LI>

<LI>Select 'save path' in paths palette.</LI>

<LI>Go to 'clipping path' and select the path you just saved.</LI>

<LI>Save as EPS format.</LI>

</OL>

<BR>

When you do this, the image data is now only what is contained within the clipping path, and although it is still bound by a square, non-image areas are transparent instead of white (or black, as above answer suggests).

<BR><BR>

Hope this helps.

My settings (that differ from default):<BR>

<BR>

<B> #1</B>: Auto rewind on<BR>

<B> #2</B>: Exposure steps - set to 1/2 instead of 1/3<BR>

<B> #3</B>: Bracketing order - set from -/correct/+, instead of correct/-/+<BR>

<B> #4</B>: AF with shutter button - need to press AF button to auto focus<BR>

<B> #6</B>: Focus select pad adjustment<BR>

<B> #8</B>: Auto film loading<BR>

<B>#13</B>: Secondary dial is exposure compensation<BR>

<BR>

These are the ones I can remember without the camera in front of me.

I do a lot of tight framing of shots within the viewfinder.

I'm starting to find that I'm cutting my images too close. When I'm

burning thru lot of film, I sometimes clip something important. Also

while enlarging images, I often can't get a good 8x10 to include all

the elements of the picture I want, because there isn't enough extra

border.

I'm hoping to upgrade soon to an F5, with 100% coverage, and I think

that will make the problem even more serious.

Is there a way to not have 100% coverage, so that stuff I'm not seeing

might make up for my tight framing? Is there a focus screen that can be

'masked' or maybe have rectangles etched to show me standard 8x10

ratios on the screen (like TV cameras have 'viewing area' marks)?

Or do I just need to learn step my zoom back before every shot?