pierre_bize

By the way mine seems to still creep...

I returned mine in may this year as it had the problem and it was quite bad. I had to wait 5 months (!) to get it back... Now the problem with image quality is fixed but the AF/MF selector remains stuck on the MF position, even though the AF still works correctly, but the problem is I just can't change the focussing mode to MF... This is very weird and I am p...ed off.

When I have to shoot in heavy rainpour I make a rain cover out of a garbage bag: Just put your camera in the bag, lens first. Make a hole in the bottom of the bag just smaller than the lens your using, force the lens WITH A LENS HOOD through the hole. fasten the plastic of the bag to the lens hood with duct tape. When you have to shoot, put your head and hand in the bag and look through the view finder... that's it!

Another way is to roll the camera and lens WITH LENSHOOD in plastic film (same used to preserve food). Once it is fully covered, make a hole to let the lens hood through and fasten with duct tape. You should be able to use your camera's control through the plastic film without any problem. Just make sure not to roll the plastic film around the focussing/zooming ring of your lens, but rather leave some space between the plastic and lens by stretching the plastic film from the camera to the lens hood.

I have been taking pictures in the worst condition with these cheapo tricks without any problem.

thanks guys

Does any on know if the lens hood for the EF 50mm f/1.4 can be used on

the EF 28mm f/1.8 when mounted on a small sensor (x1.6) DSLR?

... the 24-85 and the 75-300IS (shooting slides). I was on a 6 months trip in South America and had to restrain my kit as much as possible.

I'd say that the 16-35 f/2.8 has to come for landscapes and some animal close ups. As for the 50 f/1.4, I am not sure it would see much use... same about the 28-70 f/2.8 but it all depends on your shooting style. For the tele, I remind that we were able to get pretty close to any walking or crawling animal, so the 70-200 f/4 would be enough... unless you plan to shoot birds. I had a hard time shooting birds with my 75-300IS because it was too short and focussing too slowly. For birds you must have someting in the 400mm range: the 100-400 would be ideal as the 100mm end allows you to spot birds in flight more easily and you can then zoom in and shoot at 400mm.http://homepage.mac.com/pbize1/Travel/AlbumGalapagos.html

I was just wondering if I should sell my 85 f/1.2 to get both the 70-200 f/4 and 85 f/1.8....

No one else?

Hi every one. I just got back my SCA module from Upgrading to M3

version (as to function with my EOS 20D). Surprisingly I cannot have

the flash to fire on the second curtain anymore... I have tried in E-

TTL or Auto mode, "REAR" is set on the flash and the camera is also

set to fire the strobe with 2nd curtain (which works well when using

the built in unit). The people at Metz told me there was no problem

with the flash, however I have read a few threads on other forum from

people who had the same problem. Are we doing something wrong or is

there definitely a problem with the upgrede SCA module?

Thanks for your help

I currenly use the 85 1.2 for concerts were musicians are snot moving around a lot. For dance performance it depends... The AF in this lens leaves some to be desired. I have tried to shoot a martial art contest but with the fighters jumping all around the place I had a hard time getting a single infocus shot. If the dancing style implies a lot of moving around on the the stage I would definitely recommand the 85mm 1.8 over the 1.2 for more info read this: http://www.wlcastleman.com/equip/reviews/85mm/

I actually have the same problem with my 50mm 1.4 when mounted on my EOS 20D... Sometimes it focuses in front of the subject, sometimes way in the back. Even whe it is on the spot the image is really soft...It gave me a cold sweat as I thought it came from the body but every other lens did focus just fine, included my 85mm 1.2 which is one difficult lens to focus due to its razor thin depth of field at 1.2 and sort of slow focusing motor.

I have mounted my 10D on my Durst enlarger (with a special repro thing made for it). Then I put my light table on the enlarger's plate with a little black homemade cardboard frame on it in which the slides are placed. I use a sigma 50mm macro to duplicate the slides with the camera on M mode and manual focus, using the remote control. It is very quick and convenient and I have duplicated hundreds of scan like that. Ususally a little retouching is needed in PS as the contrast tends to be a little too harsch (set contrast on -1 or -2 on you 10D)

http://www.e-fotografija.com/artman/publish/article_306.shtml

I am in the same situation. I currently have the 70-300 APO Macro from Sigma which is regarded as a decent consumer lens for its price. I am shooting wildlife during my hikes in the Alps so max aperture isn't really a problem but I need the 300mm reach. I'm actually considering the EF 70-300 DO IS. What do you guys thin of this lens.

I have read Michael Reichmann's review too but it does not respond to my questions... I know that the 24mm f/2.8 is really good, light and compact but I was wondering if 2.8 is enough for the kind of pictures I would like to take: I d'like to take indoor pictures of people at work or during parties, without flash. This link to the NG article is a very good example of what the 24mm 1.4 can do and I'd be happy to share some more with people who have used it and can compare to the 2.8.

Hi everyone. I'm looking for a fast wide prime to mount on my EOS 10D.

I already have the 24mm f/2.8 and many poeple are telling me to keep

it, arguing that 2.8 is fast enough for a 24mm. What do you think

about that? Who has been using the 24mm f/1.4 on a digital body and

what is it really worth? Has anyone done side by side comparison of

these 2 lenes.

Thanx, Pierre.

I have bought a cheap second hand EOS 600 body for IR shooting. All EOS bodie from the 600 serie included the RT are IR compatible. The other will slightly fog the border of the frame.

The 17-40mm focal length equivalent on a 10D being 27.2-64mm has any

one tried to mount the lens hood of the EF 24-70 f/2.8 L or EF 28-70

f/2.8 L on this lens. Wouldn't it be more appropriate?

Who is using smartdisk's flashtrax (innoplus phototainer in Europe)? and what is it

worth? How does it compare to apple's iPod plus Belkin's Media Reader. I need a

portable hard drive which could also function as an mp3 player and data storage

deviace. I've read mixed review on the net. Any experience with these products?

Holà Nestor!

I've been spending some time putting together some Photoshop action to emulate cross-processing, E6/C41 as well as C41/E6. If you let me know your e-mail adresse I'll be happy to send them to you.

Amanda, You might want to try some ready made photoshop action such as Fred Miranda's web presenter (www.fredmiranda.com). It resizes pictures to whatever size, preserving color saturation and sharpness.

Thanks for the above answers. I used a mirror to level the camera (trying to see my eye though the lens in the reflection) before I placed the news paper on top of it. The results seem to be always the same after a few trials (i.e: blurry on the left side at f/2.5 and f/4). no problem at smaller apertures. Would you return the lens on this basis if you were in my situation or would you just live with it?

After taking a few macros with my new EF 50mm Macro I noticed some

severe drop in quality on the left side when open between f/2,5-4.

I know that lenses usually performe better when "screwed" down 1 or 2

stops. But is THIS normal?<div></div>

Answer is: it depend on the type of reflex you're using. With film camera and full size DSLR all of the above are correct. If you're using a 10D or similar as I am, you will not get vignetting with normal (i.e. thick) filters. I use a Galen Rowell NG on a Cokin holder without problem. As said above, the 17-40mm is great glass, so don't spare money on low quality filters.

Manually set the quality to the max, it will solve the problem. I don't think you will need to align the nozzle.