yong_shin1

I was greeted by a receptionist at a hotel in Australia. She was wearing a name tag with "Leica" engraved on it. I was so intrigued and took a snapshot (of course with her permission). She pronounced her name "Lisa" contrary to my preconception.

 

As for the "Leica" leica, you can ask anyone who have some basic knowledge about German language, to read it (don't forget to tell him/her that it is a German word.)

You can find pretty much anything that is in production except for some odd ball items like gigabit film. One that was missing was Kodakchrome but I understand that that one also went out of production. There are many professional photo shops, labs dispersed around Seoul area. When the worst comes, you can always mail order items from overseas anyway.

I used one on an M6 TTL body, and it threw off the shutter release point to a point where I had to press the release button all the way down to trip the shutter. I am not absolutely sure if it was caused by the motor but that was the first time that happened during my some 20 Ms' experience. I consulted a repair manual and did the adjustment DIY way. Such job does require a gauge but I relied on my finger sens(ation)e.

If you do a lot of portrait work with, say, 75/1.4 and above(e.g. when focusing work needs to be quick and critical) , I think it is a very good accessory. Doing such work, you can easily run down several rolls in no time. You, though, need to get used to that strange feeling propagating to your right hand index finger if you know what I mean.

I know there are several variations of the named lens, namely,

50/1.8, 50/1.8 Macro and 50/1.9 Macro. I am wondering if there are

some good references on- or off- line (or in your own words) as to

how they compare with each other, lens formulae, coating types and of

course performance.

Mine is coming off, too. How does a new one stick to the barrel? Double sided tape?

Go for the f/2 one if you don't mind the cost and weight. I have one and it is very contrasty. Very bests in the Oly stable. If you want a compact 28, go for the f/3.5. It is known to be more reputable than the f/2.8 even though it is of earlier vintage. Actually I have both lenses and you can never be satisfied with just one 28s.

 

As for the 35s, again f/2 version is one to go for. Have you visited any Oly lens test sites?

 

http://members.aol.com/olympusom/lenstests/default.htm

 

is a very good starter.

 

Happy shopping.

Nice works. Can someone with perspective control, redo the jobs above so that they look standing up rather than leaning back? Is there a function (or combination of several) in Photoshop that I can use to eract the stones, woods, steel, what have you?

Does anyone know how center filters are made? Does it have to be mass

produced or can an individual attempt to fit a particular lens with a

custome-made center filter? I want ceter filters made, one for

Notilux, GR28, etc. I hope I am making sense. Thanks in advance.

So Roland, any luck with your new charms? I would be very interested to know how those lenses faired.

Hi! Tom. So which one did you decide to use? I recently got a hold of a Focotar-2 50mm and am hoping to be able to locate a factory cam to use with 50mm for my V35, but without much success. Do you think you can lend me your cam so that I can make a copy of it and return it back to you? When using 50mm lens with V35, is there a need for an extension ring between the lens and the lens board? In any event, let me know how you ended up your darkroom set up. Please excuse my being too forward.

Does any forum member think it is a fair price? $3,000 or $1,000? I am trying to sell mine at $4,800 (Mine includes Ilford MG500 System) and would like to know what is fair market(or one the forum) values for these beasts. Thanks in advance.

To Dave:

 

I am also contemplating on getting one of those CV 28mm Metal VFs. I am very much sold on their looks.

 

I am disappointed to hear that its eye relief is not good. According to CV's website, it is of high-eye point design and brags about excellent compatibility with eye glass wearers. I am rather confused here. I wear glasses and also would like to know if the CV version has rubber rim on the viewing end. Have you had chance to compare its eye relief (or for that matter, optical quality, distortion, bright line projection quality, etc.) with Leica's, new and old(metal)? In their website(CV), I also noticed that its magnification factor is x0.43. Does anybody know what magnification factor that of Leca has? I can imagine that, one with x0.58, one has to roll their eye ball to examine the whole seen. Amature astronomers call it space walk, the quality I personally enjoy (maybe not good for compositional purpose).

I came across a similar set. Mine is with IIc. I haven't actually tried to do any work yet but planning to add the Splitgrade controller, one that is specifically designed for the Ilford 500 system. I used the Splitgrade for my V35 and there have only been successes. Does yours come with many light mixing boxes or just one for 35mm negative?

What lenses were used to take the above pictures? F value as well, please. Interested to know if the edge darkenings were due to lens vignetting or by some Photoshop effect.

I see a TA's Rapidwinder, chrome strap lugs, different covering material, non-TTL height and others. Nicely done except the vit and lug parts(IMHO). I hear it is to be priced around 380,000 ~ 420,000 Yen. I think Leica has no intention to recreate the vit. Without the original vit design, what is so special about it? Sad.

Thank you very much for all the kind advices and especially to Doug who went his way out to find suitable center filters for me and apparently for others as well. One caveat emptor. With a center filter, hood might not fit or extentable.

 

This might sound like a bumer but I am out of Noctilux at the moment. I had two samples in the past and the both had hics of some sort. One had very uneven focusing stiffness and the other a finger print on a surface of one of the internal elements (don't know how it got there. bad resale value). So I traded them for other equipement. Now, I am looking for a Noctilux owner who is interested in a trade. Or another thread with 'WTT' heading might be in order.

I am very pleased to find out my new identity. Thanks.

Doug: I am no expert in this field but what I know about color film is that its exposure latitude is much smaller, something like 3 to 5 stops in case of ASA 64~100. For BW it is more like 5 and up, and for films like TX, it is 7+. So, photos taken with low to medium speed color films @ f1.0, have very dark edges to the point where you can almost see a circle encased by the 24mm x 36mm frame. I guess what I am saying is that the effect is much more pronounced in color photography. Some use that effect to their advantage in aiding isolating the main features in their photos on top of utilizing the DOF.

 

What I am hoping to achieve is:

1. Wider coverage using 50mm. Longer lenses cut more atmospheres surrounding the main subject.

2. Scene with enough (or ample) light but I want to use f1.0 for that distortions (coma, spherical, etc.) peculiar to Nocs.

3. To use low to medium speed color film. So people are not distracted by film grains AND by edge darkening.

4. And, the very shallow DOF.

 

You know film grain is more pronounced when exposure is not correct. In this case 'under' exposure in corners. Finer grains also help discern fine gradation of colors (or distortions?). 'Strange,' one might say but I am in love with Noctiluxlry distortion.

 

I hope I am making sense here. By the way, I am no mechanisexual.

 

Thanks.

I think 50mm perspective @ f1.0 DOF is a unique combination. With this combination, one can effectively isolate the subject against background. You also get that special look (pleasing distortion, one might say) only Nocs at f1.0 can provide. B/W is fine but when using color, light falloff can really drive people away. Nowadays you can do this kind of effect using Photoshop but I am too lazy to do that kind of work. I'd rather go with neck strain and shallower pocket.

For those who enjoy 50mm perspective @ f1.0 DOF, anyone knows of

suitable center filter which closely matches Noc's light falloff

curve? Nocs appear to have a smooth(almost linear) fall off curve

down to almost about 3 stops at the corners at f1.0.

 

Thanks.

Thanks a lot, guys. I guess what I need is a new cam and a roller for the 50mm lens. I contacted Leica Germany and was told that they no longer provide conversion service for the such. I am hoping that Leica USA might have parts left for the work but it seems it is very difficult for me to contact them for the moment. Someone with a good tie with Leica NJ people might want to lend me some help in getting inside information as to how one can get those parts. Any volunteer?

Does any one know what steps are required to convert V35 to accept

50mm lens and still retain auto focusing capability? I am not sure if

the NJ people still offer this conversion service or retain parts

needed to do such conversion (Actually, can someone find this out for

me for I am located oversea at the moment. Sorry for being too

forward.). If parts are available, is this process DIYable?

I have the same combination and the same problem. Blurring is readily noticeable even on an 8x10 upon a close inspection. I have an Omega Peak focuser and the blurring near the edges is easily seen. To mediate the situation, some recommend to focus at 1/3 way out from the center of the image (Only if you can bear this compromise.). Some time ago, I saw a lens called "Schneider Focotar APO 40mm f/3.4" on the ebay. Does anyone heard or know about this lens? I would like to get my hands on one of those. Hmm

This is my second post on same topic. The first, it appears, got lost

in maze. So here we go again.

 

Does anyone know exact process used for putting vulcanite coat during

pre-M6 era by Leica? Why isn't anyone providing re-coat service other

than by non-original way? Is it becase such process is too difficult

or way to expensive to implement, or material no longer available, or

because Leica is keeping it a secret? Can someone provide me with a

blue print of the process?

 

Best regards,

Yong C. Shin