glenroy

<p>Sorry guys.... Looks like I just stepped into a scene from the TV show "Big Bang Theory"..... Sheldon didn't spill his coffee... It just fell out of the cup.</p>

<p>Henry, I sincerely hope that you had your questions answered. There are many things in Photography that some people get to understand at different times and distances into their journey.<br>

As was mentioned the optical results should be determined by the images' final goal. ie the print or web image that you were desiring to get in the first place.<br>

There are 4 things to be placed into the matrix of taking a photo. Hardware, software, technique and environment. Somewhere, sometime, one of those might let you down. Posting images on here (your own space) can be a teriffic way to receive feedback, both positive and negative. Accept the positive and sift through the negative. Then for discussion, you can link to your own uploaded photos.<br>

Onwards and upwards,</p>

<p>Glen</p>

<p>I purchased the Sigma over the Canon initially (in 2004) due to price. It served me extramely well for weddings, portraits and indoor and outdoor sport. It was fast to focus and was quite sharp. 18 months ago I purchased the Canon 70-200 IS. I needed it for the IS for shooting weddings in lower light, as well as the other situations that i mentioned above. At the time, the Sigma was about $600 cheaper (in Australia) and was the better choice for me.<br>

Now, I use the Canon all the time on the 5D, 7D and the 50D. It responds a little faster than the Sigma, and is a little sharper. The IS was what I needed and the other features are a bonus.<br>

If you don't need IS and cost is a factor, go with the Sigma, it is a great lens. If you can afford it, go for the Canon.</p>

<p>Good Luck, Glen</p>

<p>I was wondering if someone can enlighten me as to why the hotshoe doesn't work whilst in live view mode.<br>

I have a 50D and all works normally without live view. I just tried to take a shot in the studio, but the radio

transmitter didn't fire the strobes.<br>

Any thoughts?</p>

<p>The flash is the principal controller.<br>

For better lighting technique, set camera on manual, And 2nd curtain on the flash. This gives the best of both light, absorbing ambient light and mixing flash.<br>

Cheers<br>

Glen</p>

<p>I used the Sigma 70-200 2.8 EX. it is very good and a fair bit less than the Canon, but only marginally behind in image quality.</p>

<p>OR you ould look at the Canon non IS version.</p>

Thanks Guys,

I guess that there was a difference in software betwen the 3 cameras mentioned then? the 40D is the only one that I am having issues with.

Glen

Sorry Chris, not really a help at all. can you tell me what you have dome to get the port ones to rotate to port after downloading?

Cheers

Glen

Hi all,

I have just started using my new 40d and I have an issue with viewing the

images in Windows Explorer. I download them using Zoom Browser and the portrait

images are left in portrait mode. However when I view the same images in Win

Expl the portrait images are turned back to landscape orientation.

Have I missed something here or have you guys experienced that same thing?

I have no such issues using the 10d and 20d in the same mannor.

Thanks

Glen

Hi there Bob,

Is the lens being used on a new camera body? It may be the body that has the issues and not the lens.

I have a canon 24-70mm 2.8 that works well on the 10D but back focuses on the 20D.

have you tried the lens on different bodies?

Cheers

Glen

Or... another option is to set the camera on Manual with the parameters that you can use by hand holding, take the shutter speed down one or two stops more and then set the flash to second curtain sync. This has worked for me in the past with very little loss in quality.

Thanks

Glen

Interesting.....It was only one supplier that I approached about buying. I guess I'll just have to wait and find a distributer that can put my order on the waiting list.

Cheers

Glen

Hi All,

I went in to ask about a new body and I was told that Canon are holding back

releasing them in Australia as the new MK III was having focusing issues and

won't be released till they can sort it out. Has any one else heard of this or

any other stories?

Cheers

Glen

You could try the Canon 28-235mm IS lens.Very good glass and a very versatile lens.

Good luck.

Glen

Hi Amy,

I have had my DSLRS cleaned at the Canon Service in Sydney. They did it on the spot and it was free.

It is at Nth Ryde, west of the CBD about 30 mins. Can't say about Melbourne, but I think that Sydney is the service centre for Australia.

Cheers

Glen

Hi there all,

I was wondering if anyone has had an EOS Digital body "expire" on them.

I have the 10D and the 20D, and the recomemded shutter cycle is stated at

15000 cycles.

I have shot about 100000 on each camera and there seems to be little damage

done.

So my question is, has anyone had a Prosumer EOS Digital body give up on them

mechanically, and if so, what were the first or main symptoms.

Thanks

GlenRoy.

Michael, have you tried to shoot at a faster shutter speed? I am assuming you have the sync speed at 1/200th, which to me should be fast enough for most people NOT to react. If you are shooting at slower speeds say 1/60th then there is the chance of blinking.

Just trying to help....

Cheers

Glen

Hi all,

I have a 10D and a 20D and I am using 550ex and 580ex speedlites. I am having

issues with the flash not always working properly with the camera (in all

settings). However, if I apply a little saliva (sorry) to the hotshoe, I get

good conections and good results. Seems to me that I have a little corrosion

(due to surf and beach photography) on the hotshoe and it is hampering the

conection.

So can anyone suggest a safe cleaning method?

Cheers

Glen

Thanks all for the contributions.

I might lash out on the 85mm F1.8 as I feel that the 100mm, 135mm might be too long for what I'm after. It is mostly court side action thatI want to capture. I find that the Sigma 70-200 is almost perfect for other distances from around the court.

And yes the 24-70 F2.8L is the canon.

Cheers,

Glen

Thanks Rainer.

On which body are you using it on?

I herad it was reasonably fast in focusing.

GD

Hi all,

I am interested to know about the focusing speed of the 85mm 1.8 lens for

indoor volleyball.

I currently use the Sigma 70-200 2.8, and a 50mm 1.4, as well as the 300mm 4.0

(in good light).

I will be using it on the 10D and 20D at this stage.

Also I have been trying the 24-70 2.8 and found it a little slow in focusing.

Has anyone else tried this lens and found it slow to focus in action sports?

Thanks

Glen.

Ken,

I will ask what you are shooting. That will determine what you need in the 20D. The ISO noise is better in the 20D, the shooting FPS is better in the 20D, the buffer is higher in the 20D and something that hasn't been mentioned is the neutral polarity sync socket for Studio lights. Using the 10D with Strobes was a nightmare with the old lights I used.

But you need to assess what you are shooting. I apperciate the FPS of the 20D for sport, but the 10D has much bigger and therefore better focusing points for my work. The resolution difference is not really that great, to be honest, unless you are blowing up over 16 x 12 in. I believe that my 10D is a great camera and I favour it over the 20D apart for the FPS and the much larger buffer and ISO noise.

For outdoor weddings and portrait work they are quite similar.

Hope this helps.

Glenroy.

I have the 10D and 20D and EOS 3. My 24-70mm overfocuses on the 20D. Spoke to Canon Australia and I have to get the lens re-calobrated to that camera. They also need 2 other canon lenses at the same time to check with them. It should be done free of charge.

Good Luck,

Glen