bob_bell

take a picture, download it to your pc and see if it works

I am not sure the answer is to strobe everyone in the face with flashguns :)

 

What lenses are you using and what apertures are you using?

 

A F1.8 can do wonders in a dark room.

Couldnt you just get a 30-32 inch umbrella and put the lightsource really close to the umbrella? I would think a shoot through or soft bounce would do the same effect.

I am not sure you can make clear deliniations between pro and consumer bodies anymore. I am sure there are many working pro's using 20D and D70's and I know of a few amatuers that shoot with 1Ds's.

 

I would be more inclined to believe that the maximum aperture limit is a function of support and competition.

 

I don't think canon has ever marketed an EF lens that is slower than 5.6, so why put support for it on consumer grade bodies. I think it reduces a lot of calls, plus locks out competitors F.8 and slower lenses.

 

The F.8 on 1 bodies gives flexibility on stacking TC's L zooms and primes and gives a supposedly more experienced photographer options to keep them from going to competitors. I think Bill Goldman makes a good point as well with F4 and F5.6 L zooms that with 1 or 2 stop TC's would be unfocusable.

Just a bit of additional help, because of a project, I have had to photograph 10 relatively new models in the last couple months and there is a huge difference in experience where a new model will take 20-30-40 pictures to loosen up to be themselves where as a pro is read to go as soon as you are. So when you set up times, be patient, have larger blocks of time available and I would recommend talking about what you both want out of it. I think it must be a lot scarier to be in front of the lens than behind.

Brad, I think you should recommend some lubriderm for your models :)

I would guess condensation before something else. Put it in a warm dry place with good circulation and maybe some of those packets for removing humidity. It should go away in time. I would avoid putting it in directly sunlight as you might cause warping or something else bad.

Don't you love those reviews greg :) Personally I would like to see Bob review it and then see if it will work on a D60/10D body with the little plastic donut cut off, but im not sure anyone wants to do that to a $700 lens though.

I have a 28-70/2.8 and I recommend that or the 24-70. I know they are expensive, but they are amazing at times.

i wouldnt worry about dust, I carry a 50mm and sometimes a 85mm when using my L zoom and change as needed for for the extra stops, you just have to learn to not shoot over F.16 or how to clean a sensor well (The XT is the 350D right?. I take about 5000 images a year and only clean my sensor 1-3 times a year and I live in dusty phoenix.

You can get russian made wide angles for canon in 8mm and 16mm that are good quality and really cheap.

 

I'm not up to speed on where you get a good price on these, I just remember this site / ebay company from last year: http://www.kievcamera.com/cameras.php?cat=14

Does your camera insurance cover this incident?

 

 

I spoke to Canon about a year ago about the possibility of replacing the AF motor when it finally dies on mine and they said that the part isnt in stock anymore and that they could attempt to fix it but with no promises. I would put a good effort in and try to remove the glue and at worst case try to salvage the AF motor. I bet you could get a couple hundred for one in good order from someone with a dead motor.

 

I think the 80-200 is a tremendous lens, but at the same time, you could buy a new 70-200, have a warrenty and not have to worry about someone elses mess.

I think I have the only D60 that works in low light and doens't have an AF issue. I will trade it for a brand new 1D Mk 2 :)

 

any takers?

 

:)

nice information on replacing flash tubes

If you are that worried about it, buy one of those lens wraps that are available for canon lenses now. Then you will never scratch it :)

Not to be technical but Canon uses CMOS for the sensors over 6MP not CCD. I think the original 1D uses a CCD and there is not argument over how good that body was.

 

As to your question Fife, there is a seach button on the top left side where you can search for all of the similar questions. Lately, I have seen 4-5 a day, so there are a lot of people with your question :)

Personally, i think it is silly to put a cheap filter in front of a $1300 lens cause that filter will bring the whole lens down to its level.

 

With that said, I wont buy filters that arent in brass. It's not worth having to stop shooting cause you cant get a filter on your lens which happens a ton with aluminum. I have 77mm tiffen UV that will never go on a lens because its way to hard to take off.

 

Spend the money on B+W or Helipoan and get the multicoated.

If are you going to shoot in RAW then why do you convert to JPG? One of the benefits of shoowing RAW is to not use JPG and not introduce compression junk.

 

Just convert them all ot 8 big tiff with exif and then edit away and save.

 

Also, pickup a dvd burner, they are less than a 100 bux and you can store your images on DVD instead of losing everything.

I love the mk1's in fact have one that came with my first 600 series in the 80's and have another that I picked up a year ago for $100.

 

The motor is not USM and it is not silent. Focusing speed is usually fast on my D60, it does tend to hunt in low contrast on the D60 but that is related to the D60 and not the lens.

 

If you have 300 get the 1.4 if you have 150 get the 1.8 mk1, if you have 75 bux get the mk 2. This isnt a choice between a crappy lens and an L, its a choice between very nice, very nice better build quality, and even nicer and same build quality. They are very close and I am not sure the 1.4 has an advantage over the 1.8.

I use them on my 550ex and I think it makes a significant difference. The big thing is that it makes your flash bigger, kind of work like a softbox where the light source is wider so it wraps around more. Its enough to soften shadows but not that you can get rid of them.

 

Also, I use it when taking shots of my 2 year old niece. It acts as a nice catch light and softly fills her face.

 

Its not a replacement for a softbox or soft fill lights but for 15 bucks its a pretty good deal and if you dont like it, i bet you could resell it pretty easily.

I think the smallest canon is the 200EX. Its like a 100 bux and it doesnt swivel or bounce or anything if I remember right.

I still use my D60 for paid projects. I don't think there is enough of an advantage to buy a drebel or 10D over one so you are better off with a low actuation D60 or a 20D.

 

if you really want to buy a brand new body on a budget, the Drevel is a good buy and about $775 with a 18-55.

 

All EF lenses work on EOS bodies. Canon has come out with EF-s and those only work on the Digital Rebel and 20D.

 

Canon makes over 50 lenses and some of them are outstanding, some are very good, and a few are dissapointing. Just search on a lens and you will find a lot of posts on it.

India has a lot of educated IT folks with a lot of technology. We just installed an E1 going there and it was like working with MCI here in the US. Shouldnt be any concerns.

 

As far as your battery and CF levels. I carry twice that many batteries for location shoots here in town. Go pick up another pair from mydigitaldiscount.com just in case you need them and their cheap and work with canon chargers.

 

If you chimped while you took your images, I think 2 cards will work for ya. That is over 300 images and if you delete the bad ones that is a lot for a few days.

 

Look at getting a monopod instead of a tripod unless you wanted timed shots, they are easiser to carry and use.

 

ditch the lens cleaning clothe, buy a 100 pack of pec pads and a bottle or eclipse or ror and you will be able to do a lot more without scratching anything.

Canon makes a 10,000 of each lense I assume and if you rely on 4-5 complaints (which could be completely valid) and 1 review site, that is way less than than 1 percent of the lenses sold which really bears no statistical relevance.

 

I am sure you could find a place to rent the lens for a week or borrow it and try it out.

Can anyone recommend a strong plastic/nylon cold shoe with a 1/4-20

hole for mounting on a tripod or light stand? The ones I have come

across seem really flimsey and B&H isn't very descriptive on 20

dollar items.

 

Thx

-Bob

im using a Tamrac N-45 with plastic qr's which are rated for 100 pounds each. I have used it on 4 outings (2 shoots and 2 for fun) and its holding up well. It feels really nice.

 

I dont feel as comfortable as I do with the old style straps that came with cameras in the 80's