nelson cotrim

A friend of mine has th MT-24, which has the same problem. He just screwed another filter to the thread in the flash. Whwn he wants to use the flash, he removes the filter from the lens and clip the flash in place.

When I use automatic focusing point selection and spot metering (spot

linked to active focusing point, not just the central point), were is

the spot metering taken? At all the active focus points (if more than

one acquire focus)? What if one of the non-spot focus point is the

only active one?

100 2.8 macro USM. It's a rear focus design, though.

I don't know the 20D finder, but if it looks like ground glass, it just makes it easier because the image just snaps into focus.

I've just traded my Elan 7 for the 1v. The elan had one CF I really

liked for extreme low-light work - I could use an external flash's

assist light, while disabling the flash (CF 7-3). I couldn't find any

CF like that in the 1v. I know there is a Personal Function that

disables the assist beam (PFn 15), but I want to disable the flash

while enabling the assit beam. Is there any way to do this?

If you can't find it, mail me and I'll send you the file.

I use a 550 and a 420, also on the sides, for macro work, both with bouncers. Of course, I need someone to help me with the second flash as I don't have a bracket.

It can't be done. Th main flash would have to to fire the pre-flash during the exposure telling the slaves to fire as they have no way of knowing when that would be.

It's not listed on Canon website anymore.

 

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=148

Thanks guys for your opinions. Steve, I agree with the "if". As I said, it's more of a probability than a certainty. Like you, I'm still holding back the digital because of the lack of ECF and my love of wide-angles - and I just can't afford a 1D II or even less a 1Ds. But on the issue of 3 vs 1v, I think you've nailed it. 3 is the best one to go for, at least for me. Now to my other dilemma, 3 or 20D... But that's for me to decide :^)

Dan, actually this is the going price for the 1v HS over here. Which is good, considering it is almost 2000 at BH. And this one is pretty unused either.

 

One other question: is FEL linked to the active focus point (like int he Elans) or only to the central (like in the 20D)?

I have a Elan 7e, and I'm realy happy with the camera. I have the

opportunity to buy a mint 1v and PB-E2 (and the battery grip) for some

1300 US, courtesy of the many digital cameras causing film bodies

prices to drop. I know I can get a mint (but harder to find) EOS 3 and

PB-E2 for even a little less. I just don't know which would be the

best deal. I really like ECF, and use it all the time with my Elan 7e.

I think I'll miss ECF on the 1v, and I could use the difference to get

the cable release (and similar to the digitals), since it's different

from that of my Elan. I'm just looking for a tougher body, to be my

last ever film body (probably). They don't get any tougher than the

1v, but then my Elan II lasted 7 years before I sold it last month. To

a friend. Which would you say would be the best deal?

JJ has the best answer. I saw a Pentax lens hood which had a hole with a sliding cover in the base of the hood. Perfect solution. I may be wrong but I think some Sigmas have holes cut in their hoods as well.

FEL is also linked to the active focus point in the Elans (II and 7) but only to the central point in the 10D. Maybe the partial metering is linked to the central too. Hope the 20D will give us this back.

It will still work as normal. E-TTL does not use information from the lens (besides focal length). I use it all the time with my Zenitar Fisheye lens.

I did use a Zenitar and the 550 in E-TTL mode and it worked fine. Used FEL almost all the time, all the exposures were dead on. I was using the Elan 7, but I don't think it wouldn't be the same with the 10D or the DRebel. The flash just doens't "see" the apperture, but it does emit the right amount of light, as long as you don't FEL and then change apperture.

I did see the page a few hours ago, and it's not there anymore. There's also no press release and it was the only page in that folder that did not have a link to the brochure, so no specs, just photos. DPreview specs are probably just guestimates, but I belive the camera is real. It 's probably the same thing that happend with the 1Ds, someone posted the page on the internet, and then pulled it off some time later.

I had the same problem with the Zenitar 16mm fisheye on my Elan 7. The Zenitar (mine was in EOS mount, no adapters) has a rear mounted filter which must be screwed all the way in, but as russian quality goes, sometimes it sticks and you think it has reached the end. With the filter not fully screwed my Elan 7 presents the same problem. But not my Elan II. I believe that the mirror will come slightly back and up, but on returning it will go straight down, and may touch the lens, locking it up. My guess is that the Elan 7 has not as much clearing from the mirror than the others, but it wouldn't make much sense, as the mirrors of better bodies are probably larger due to better coverage.

Or you could get a radio flash and do it without wires. A 550 EX is an expensive flash trigger, set to M mode and 1/32 power, tilted up, but then you'd have a portable flash also.

The great advantage of the Canons over the Tamrons are the FTM, making it possible to use AF in many situations while doing macro work handheld. Of course it doesn't work all the time, but it's been a life saver many a time.

Gee, hope you're abe to restore it. It's great!!!!

It blinks to let you know the flash is in slave mode, charged and ready to fire. If it's still recharging (not ready to fire) the light doesn't blink.

I have Elan 7e and I'm using a friend's 10D. When I use FEL the

exposure lock is on the central focusing point, regardless of the

active. On the Elan, FEL is always on the active point. I searched

through all the CFs but couldn't find any way to set this. Is it

possible to change the FEL point or is it always locked on the

central point?

I've just got a M42 to EOS adapter from Kiev Camera for $5. OK, I also bought the Zenitar Fisheye, but in EOS mount.

My Elan 7 meters 1 stop overexposure at all áppertures and light conditions, so I just dial in -1.5 compesation and I'm good to go. A friend's Elan 7 meters 1.5 stops over, also at all appertures.

Mine fells as it's part of the lens. OK, it's not that perfect a fit, but it fells as tight as my other lenses. And I bought the first hood I came across.