artie_kapell5

<p>Having just recently upgraded to a new Dell running Vista 64 bit, it never occured to me that I would not be able to use the drivers I have for the Sprintscan 120. I've tried searching this site for any information, and only found one entry from 07 that didn't seem hopeful. Do I have any alternatives for using the scanner? I've been using Silverfast for scanning. Thanks.</p>

Michael,

 

Thanks for the response. I had noted that the microtek holder was one notch short of the original polaroid holder, but couldn't be sure that was the problem.

After having used my Sprintscan 120 for a number of years, I've finally gotten a Microtek glass holder to hopefully

increase the sharpness of my scans. A major problem however has been that the scanner rarely allows me to put

the holder in without immediately ejecting it. Last night I had one scan before it would no longer accept the holder.

Turning the machine off and on, rebooting the computer, removing and reinserting the firewire... nothing seemed to

work. I am running an older version of Silverfast (5.5) because of the expense of upgrading (and the fact that I haven't

been able to get good scans with Vuescan) but don't know if that may be the cause or not. Help is appreciated.

 

In addition, if you've got some methods used to keep the holder clean and free from dust, I'd also be happy for your

response.

 

Thanks.

James had it right - you can buy an older version of photoshop quite cheaply, which I did, and then get an upgrade. I did buy the older version on ebay, and the upgrade on Amazon. Amazon gave me $50 for getting a credit card in my company's name, so the entire purchase of a working version of photoshop came to a tad above $100.

Hi there,

 

I will be showing a group of 15 to 20 color photos, from 35mm, of children in

Asia and S. America, to a potential client, who is the head of a large private

school. I've been through the archives here, as well as at a few websites,

notably Light Impressions, but am having trouble with a number of decisions.

I'd be very appreciative of any help and/or suggestions in this regard.

 

What is your preferred image size for photos from 35mm when showing to a

client?

 

Do you display them matted or unmatted? Do you have a particular matte size?

Do you use the same opening for each, and have a favorite color and supplier?

 

If unmatted, do you have loose photos in a box (such as light impressions

display boxes) or in a binder (like their ultra display binders), or some

other method?

 

Thanks for any and all help.

 

Artie Kapell

Ironically, I used to live in Golden, CO. Haven't drunk Coors since. Could we make it a Guinness?

William,

 

Once and once again, thanks for your help. I've found at least part of the problem - I downloaded updated paper profiles from Epson and, voila, I could now choose the paper profiles under Print Space->Profile.

 

My Mode->Custom Settings->Advanced doesn't work as shown in the document provided by epson on their web site for using the profiles, but I did manage to get a good print using your method. Hooray!. So I am now in the lengthy process of downloading an updated printer driver just to make sure everything is okay.

 

Funny, I had downloaded a couple of the updated paper profiles a month or so ago and never installed them. I had also never bothered to download the help document along with it. Live and learn. If you're ever in Richmond, VA I'll buy you a beer. Thanks.

Thanks for the very quick response William. Is there some difference between selecting "Custom" at the top of Edit>Color Settings and "North American Prepress"? (I actually only have European Prepress as a selection). What is this selecting?

 

I did try the following, and got the same very dark photos that I've gotten before when using the Custom>No color adjustment:

 

Towards the bottom of the File>Print with Preview screen, I have the choices of "Output" or "Color Management". I selected the latter (which I assume would be similar to your "let photoshop determine colors". I then have a selection for the source space (for which I chose Adobe RGB) and the print space. For print space, the selections are all the usual profiles, including one "Stylus Photo 2100/2200", and one for Intent (which has relative colorimetric). I tried using the "Stylus Photo...". I then chose the paper type and Custom>No color adjustment. There are also the choice of Custom>Color Controls. Could that be the proper selection under Custom?

 

Any suggestions? I do enjoy assisting with enriching Epson, but our local paper recyclers are feeling overwhelmed.

 

Thanks again.

Hi there!

 

I am running PS7 with an Epson 2200. My monitor and scanner are calibrated,

and I use the paper profiles that come with the printer. I have read before

that in the Print-Properties menu, one should select "Custom" as opposed

to "Automatic", and that under "Advanced" (which appears when I

select "Custom", I should be selecting "No color adjustment" under the color

management section. This doesn't work with my prints at all, and I have been

wondering what selecting custom versus automatic does. What profiles is it

affecting/not affecting? Thanks for your time.

 

Artie K

Thanks for your comments. I will probably save myself the money and go for the cf over either of the others.

Hi! It is time to select a second lens and I have read comparisons

of the 150 and 180 here. I believe I am going to choose the 180.

But I cannot decide whether it is worth spending the extra money to

go from a CF to a CFE. Has anyone had a chance to own/compare the

two and has an opinion? I am shooting with a 503, so the contacts

on the CFE doesn't warrant my purchasing it. Thanks.

Simon - Thanks for the quick response.

 

I am indeed putting the two slots in the back into the hinges on the body. I have tried inserting the dark slide both ways, and it seems to have no effect. I have also tried inserting the back with the shutter cocked and uncocked - again to no effect. The button does move on the top of the back, but the back won't go the last half a millimeter.

 

Does the dark slide actually engage something in the back that allows the button to move its full distance? And does it make a difference if the dark slide's folded metal by the handle face towards the body? How frustrating to have this camera and not even be able to attach a film back! (I do intend to get the book I have heard recommended for operating the camera. I've already gotten the compendium). Thanks again.

I have just bought my first Hasselblad and was eager to put the used

A12 I bought on the camera. I have tried everything I can think of,

but the back won't go on. It is as if the button on top of the back

will not move far enough, and as a result something is blocking the

two projections along the top of the body from being able to go all

the way into the back. Am I missing something or have I gotten a

back with a problem? Thanks for your time.

A great day trip I just took was up to Ventura and across by boat to the Channel Islands, which have been in the national park service for a comparitively short time. Looks strangely like Scotland - barren hills, lots of hiking, ocean scenery. It does involve a full day as you can get a boat out in the morning and return to ventura in the afternoon. Check out the web site if you're interested.

 

Artie Kapell

I've been shooting with the Nikkor SW 4.5 90 and just wanted to mention that if you were to consider this lens, you must also consider the size of the filters that you would be using - 82mm. Other than that, I really enjoy using it and have gotten excellent results.

A slightly different question: I just bought a Jobo expert drum, thinking I would use it with the Unicolor base. I've noticed though that the diameter of the expert drum is so large that it does not seem to make even a full revolution on the Unicolor base before it reverses direction and heads back the other way. Doesn't this mean that some of the film chambers won't receive solution, hence making it useless for processing without some kind of modification?

I have a Master Technika with a 90 Nikkor SW. I found it difficult to use on a flat lensboard as it was too close to the end of the rail. I ended up buying a used recessed board from Robert White in the UK for about $100 US. I could not imagine having held out for long without it. I've also seen them on ebay at much more reasonable prices than the new price. And perhaps Bob Saloman (sorry if I spelled your name wrong) can give some indication of how to tell the difference between one model of recessed board and another.

Thanks to all who responded. I had figured, as Arnold's article pointed out, that it must be a particular problem with the fact that I was viewing ektachromes. But as the mounts gave no clues as to which side was which, and as they were taken long enough ago that I don't remember which is left from right, and as there is generally no lettering to clue me in as to which side was up, I may have to remove the mounts and view the film's lettering. I really haven't been able to determine which side is shinier.

Jim - I realize you should be able to see the emulsion, which I can usually do by holding the slide at arms length and trying to see the reflection of a bright bulb off of it, but with these particular slides I have just not been able to do that.

I had a large number of slides which I think were ektachrome

developed in Asia which were mounted in plain plastic mounts. It has

been very difficult for me to tell which side is the emulsion, and

was only recently told that one of my prints is backwards because a

chinese friend had to look through the back of the print to read some

characters in it. There does not appear to me to be any significant

difference in the reflectivity of either side, and trying to judge

which side the emulsion is on by the film that it is buckled towards

doesn't seem to do it consistently either. I realize I may be

overlooking something quite obvious, but can someone please help me

figure out a consistent way to tell the emulsion side? Many thanks.

Another vote for the radio shack device. They were selling them a week or two ago at my local store on a discount - I think I paid $5 for my second one (stepped on a predecessor) and use it in my darkroom because of the audible aspect. Nonetheless, although I hate to wear watches also, I usually carry a cheap casio wrist watch that I put in my pocket. For $15 it'll count up, down, tell me how much time I have left in the day, and is waterproof to boot.

Bob - Would the color be an indication of which model of Technika the boards would fit on? I know I have a number of black boards which are recent and are for a 2X3. What about other colors or distinguishing marks of boards than black? Thanks again for any answers.

I am looking for used lensboards for a master technika on ebay and

don't know which of the older ones will fit. Can someone tell me

this? Thanks.

 

Artie

I've been shooting with a field 2x3 and am interested in buying a 4x5

monorail. As I would like to do it inexpensively, I have thought of

getting one of the earlier Kardans but haven't been able to find any

side-by-side comparisons of the earlier models. In addition, it has

been suggested to me that I look at one of the new Kardan M's as

another alternative. Can anyone give me a summary of the different

Kardans, or their experience with the current lesser-expensive

models, or direct me to a website with this information. It would be

important for me to be able to carry the camera a few miles, so

portability and weight is an issue. Thanks. Also, I know that I

could also consider 4x5 field cameras, but would like the experience

of shooting monorails. Thanks.

 

Artie Kapell, Richmond VA

A friend and I are in the process of looking at scanners that will

accomodate medium format slides and negatives. Polaroid is currently

offering a $300 rebate on the Sprintscan 120, which makes it a lot

more affordable compared to a coolscan 8000 or a dimage I had thought

about previously. I've searched through the archives and have read

various opinions concerning the difference between software available

with the nikons and with the polaroid without being able to make a

decision as to which scanner may be the best buy. Can those with

experience in both tell me their opinions. In addition, anyone know

about the future of Polaroid and whether they'll be around to offer

support for their products. Thanks.