RvdK

<p>Here is the promised update:<br /><br />NEW: What is the best external microphone for the D800/D800E?<br />NEW: Does the Nikon D800/D800E have an ISO sweet spot with video? With Youtube example.<br /><br />UPDATE: How can I do about the rolling shutter effect on the Nikon D800/D800E?<br />UPDATE: Should I use 30fps or 24fps for recording movies with the D800/D800E?<br />UPDATE: How do I enable index marking on the Nikon D800/D800E?<br>

Please find the link in the post at the top of this page.</p>

<p>The limit of 29 minutes and 59 seconds is actually not a software or hardware limitation at all. Devices that can record 30 minutes or longer at a time qualify as video recorders by European law and are therefore subject to a 5.4% higher import duty. The original idea behind this is aimed at video recorders that can make -possibly illegal- copies of television shows or movies. The 5.4% is used to compensate the theoretical loss of royalties to copyright holders. While this hardly makes sense for cameras, the law does apply to them.<br>

Please read more at <a href="http://photo.vanderkolk.info/photo-nikon-d800-30-minute-limit.php">http://photo.vanderkolk.info/photo-nikon-d800-30-minute-limit.php</a></p>

<p>Craig: I'm working on a separate page about external microphones and address exactly the issue that you are raising. A hot shoe mounted microphone may seem practical but is the worst place for most applications. Thanks for the wedding example, I'll use it in the page if that's ok. <br>

Frank: You're welcome.<br>

Joel: Oops, I mistyped that one. It's omnidirectional. Page is updated, thanks for the heads up.</p>

<p>James: For video I would use the flattened projection of the panoramic image and pan trough that. The image quality will be a lot better than a flash/html animated panorama.</p>

<p>The rotator on my Manfrotto ball head is definitely not good for panning, it has too much play and wobbles a bit. :-)</p>

<p>Hello fellow D800 users,<br /> <br />With over fifteen years of experience in shooting with Nikon equipment, I thought I knew quite a bit. Now video has entered my life and I can start all over again... The D800 is my first DSLR capable of shooting video and I am stunned by the quality it can deliver. Curious as I am, I've gathered lots of info on shooting video with the D800 and decided to share what I've found so far. Enjoy!<br /> <br /><a href="http://photo.vanderkolk.info/photo-article-nikon-d800-video-tricks.php">http://photo.vanderkolk.info/photo-article-nikon-d800-video-tricks.php</a><br /> <br />I'm writing new stuff every day. I'll let you know of major updates by expanding this thread.<br>

Current articles:</p>

<ul>

<li>How do I get a clean full screen hdmi output?</li>

<li>How do I enable 1080p hdmi output on the Nikon D800/D800E?</li>

<li>How do I get rid of flicker or banding in movies recorded with the Nikon D800/D800E?</li>

<li>How do I get rid of aliasing and moiré artifacts shooting video on the Nikon D800/D800E?</li>

<li>How can I do about the rolling shutter effect on the Nikon D800/D800E?</li>

<li>How large is a 20 minute movie from the Nikon D800/D800E?</li>

<li>What memory card type do I need for recording video with the Nikon D800/D800E?</li>

<li>What memory card speed do I need for recording video with the Nikon D800/D800E?</li>

<li>Should I use a stereo or mono microphone with the D800/D800E?</li>

<li>What battery should I get for movie making, the EN-EL15 or the EN-EL18?</li>

<li>Should I use 30fps or 24fps for recording movies with the D800/D800E?</li>

<li>How does the Nikon D800/D800E perform at high iso with video?</li>

<li>How do I prevent autofocus and handling noise to be picked up by the microphone?</li>

<li>How do I reduce preamp noise on the D800/D800E?</li>

</ul>

<p>Questions & suggestions are welcome :-)</p>

<p>If you start shooting video with the D800, you may find my list of D800 video tricks helpful: <a href="http://bit.ly/nikon-d800-video" rel="nofollow">http://bit.ly/nikon-d800-video</a> Enjoy!</p>

<p>Nikon has a 80-200 mm 4,5-5,6 D Macro. The 80-200/2.8 is NOT a macro lens.</p>

Cheapskate solution: use software to batch process the images and cover up the hotpixel. You could create an action in Photoshop but there's also special software for it.

Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod + Manfrotto 488RC4 ballhead.

Check out my picture in this thread: <a href="http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00PItL">http://www.photo.net/nikon-

camera-forum/00PItL</a> and see if you actually need a new part.

Frank writes: "plus, at least one extra stop of ISO."

 

Where did you get that from? It's the first time I read that. Sensor and software for the D3 and D700 are the same, so one would expect exactly the same ISO performance.

Oops, I never closed this thread. Sorry about that. I finally ordered another SB-600 for back up and as soon as it arrived I send the old one to Nikon for repairs. I paid almost the price of a new one to have it fixed. Six weeks later the flash bulb failed and I had to send it again; this time they fixed it for free as it was under the warranty of the previous repair.

 

Never had any problems since. Later on I bought an SB-800 to complete the set. Great trio of lights for strobist style shooting using CLS. Poor old SB-28's, now gathering dust together with those eBay triggers...

Thank you all for your replies. Counting the number of them I seem to have found a point worth discussing.

 

The decision to order that D3 was well pondered over. I'm was certainly not going to buy it just because it's the best thing available. I seriously needed more wide angle and better performance (in terms of auto focus and image quality) in low light conditions for professional reasons. Some other features (studio live view, to name one) were very welcome as an addition just for the fun of it.

 

That the camera is made by Nikon and designed by Italian top consultants is a theoretical advantage but does not change my personal practical experience. (That said, ergonomics are still a lot better than any other brand imho!)

 

A wrist or neck strap will prevent damage when it slips, but will not prevent the camera of slipping out of my hand itself. Attaching an L-bracket or quick release plate may make it a little better, I would have to try that to see if it helps.

 

I'm glad most of you do not experience this backdraw, but Iﾒm also relieved that I'm not completely alone in this (thanks Jose, we're not that different when it comes to the D3).

 

Even with the size and weight, I do not hesitate to bring a DSLR to the first day at school for one of my kids (been there, done that). (BTW: the extra weights compensates for shutter/mirror vibration, making the pictures sharper, especially at lower shutter speeds).

The D3 is a great camera with unprecedented results. Period.

 

But every rose has it's thorn. What things about your D3 would you like to see

improved?

 

Only yesterday I discovered a big disadvantage myself. I even cancelled my order

for the D3, placed three weeks ago. My order was based on all the raving reviews

and my trust in Nikon. A fellow photographer just got his D3 and let me have a try.

I noticed the problem, how subjective it may be, even before turning the camera on.

 

The vertical grip is too shallow for my big hands. Certainly in comparison with my

D200+MB-D200. Underneath the lens mount is this bulge, probably to stuff all that

technology somewhere.

 

I use my left hand to hold speedlights, wave at my subjects, hold reflection panels

and so on. Therefore good a vertical grip is essential to hold the camera only with

my right hand, without the risk of dropping this heavy and expensive piece of

equipment.

 

My trusty D200+MB-D200 allows me to shoot like this, but the D3 falls miserably

short. Such a shame, I really wanted that technological miracle so bad for all itﾒs

other great features and superior image qualityﾅ

 

 

I havenﾒt read any complaints anywhere about this issue so far, so I guess Iﾒm the

only one. Still dreaming about a D3x though, to be released this summer, with this

problem solvedﾅ

I shoot a lot of concerts and know the fog problems.

 

The fog machines are usually not constantly on, so I only use flash when the fog clears up. For the rest just try without. And yes, it's difficult to get enough light.

 

Use a monopod if you can, that really helps. I've got no VR lenses.

 

And make lots of pictures, I mean lots, because most pics wil be out of focus or blurred due to forementioned problems.

 

Play along with the spotlights. If they are not constantly on they are likely to follow a pattern with the music. Try to foresee when they will be on and shoot quickly.

 

I use tungsten WB and a orange CTO filter on the flash to balance it.

 

It's 800 to 1600 ISO and aperture priority on a D200. I can't wait to get my D3 and use 6400...

Robert,

 

That sounds like a big disappointment.

 

Please try it with constant light outside from a tripod. Take a lot of pictures from the same object all without changing settings but shaking the camera a bit between frames, zooming in and out, that kind of stuf.

 

All the pictures should come out with the same brightness (assuming the weather didn't change). If not, there must be a mechanical problem somewhere.

 

And please post some pics to illustrate the story, so we can examine the EXIF info.

"I'm planning to use my D300 for at least 10 years."

 

That's what I thought when I bought my D200 a year ago. Now, after 15.000 shots, I'm selling it for a D3!

With the naked eye it sure looks like it is simply a round hole. Only after I took this picture I discovered the hexagon bolt. You might try a small flashlight to see it.

 

I think the next thing to do is check if the position of de rectangle shaped hole above the hexagon bolt is the same as in the picture. Otherwise, it needs to be adjusted so the hook can snap around the bottom rim of the rectangle shaped hole, locking the flash into place.

<p>Inside the slot is a small part that locks the hook. It can be adjusted using the screw so it seems. Take a look at my picture (of a D70, not a D70s) and compare it to your camera please.</p>

 

<img src="http://i30.tinypic.com/6fukar.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic">

Please post an unedited JPG so we can have a look at the EXIF info.

My old D70 (firmware 2.00, used as a back up camera) has developed a problem.

It starts formatting by itself...

 

Lately, sometimes when I get the camera out of the bag it shows 'FOR' in the

display while the camera is still turned off. When I turn it on the number of

available images is shown again. This had happened around 5 times in the last

month or so and never happened before.

 

There is no chance both format buttons were pressed togehter by accident.

Neither one of the buttons seems stuck, so that's not the cause either.

 

Anyone?

Most of them will work fine. I'm using some E-series lenses myself. Check the manual for the compatible types of lenses from the old days.

I bet you measured this with the lens cap on. In that case there is no TTL feedback and the flash will always fire at full power.

I'm using two SB-28's in manual mode and radio triggers with my D200 as portable studio flashes. So don't throw them away once you enter the digital era! But for P&S TTL stuff, get the SB-600 or SB-800.