chandos_michael_brown

<p>Youxin Ye is a treasure. He did some major work for me on a modified M-4P (replacing an already converted M3 vf with a better one, which I supplied). I wouldn't think twice about sending him a camera. Wonderfully communicative, too.</p>

 

<p>I've got a set of ring wrenches designed for the M3 that I can sell you. They'll take the top plate off lickety split.<br>

My guess is that somebody's already opened up this body--which might otherwise be a good thing if it were CLA'd. They didn't tend to ship from Leica that way. It would drive me insane, or, perhaps, more insane.</p>

 

<p>Looks like a custom job. Someone fabbed up a Bundeswehr M8.</p>

<p>Sounds like an old Omnica case.</p>

<p>Chandos</p>

<p>Yee is great. I can't speak highly enough. He's absolutely honest and a very good tech. You'll be pleased.</p>

<p>CHandos</p>

<p>I second the recommendation for Youxin Ye. He overhauled an M4P for me, including the replacement of the M3 finder already installed it in. This is difficult work, and he did a brilliant job at a reasonable cost.</p>

<p>Leica IIIF; 50/2 Summarit; Kodachrome 64</p>

<p>You need to fabricate a special tool to remove the retaining ring around the rewind shaft. See:<br>

http://pentax-manuals.com/manuals/service/leica%20basic%20repair.pdf<br>

Good luck.<br>

Chandos</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The lens and hood in the Omnica case in the first image are a Summarit 50/1.5 and its fairly rare hood.</p>

<p>Seconding Jerry: the Summarit hood is a big boxy affair with a wonderful black krinkle finish and a finely knurled screw clamp. Mounted on the lens, the hood gives lie to the "compactness" of the Leica system; it's damn near as bulky as the 90 Tele-Elmarit, and weighs about as much as a Nikon F, but the coolness factor is stratospheric.</p>

<p>Mr Plumpton,</p>

<p>I don't know what academic world that you inhabit, but the $6000 cost of an M7 or MP would exceed 10% of the annual salary that we're offering new hires in a relatively elite college, and this is calculated at gross. Modern Leica gear is the provenance of the wealthy, the feckless, and professionals (perhaps). To paraphrase one of my colleagues in comparative literature: it's not a discipline; it's a fashion statement. I fear that this is true of the contemporary Leica brand as well.</p>

<p>The LX-3 is the closest I've come to the serviceability of a Barnack Leica in the digital world. For several years my favorite pocket camera was a IIIF with a Russar 21mm lens and finder. The LX-3 produces better images (the Russar can be good, at least mine was, but it is not an excellent lens). I miss the VF, but have been too lazy/cheap to buy one. I hate chimping the digital display.<br>

I never used filters on my Leica lenses unless to was to purposeful effect. A hood's nice protection though. PS can duplicate a lot of what filters used to do.</p>

 

<p><img src="http://cmbrow.people.wm.edu/photography/PAW/tonyandbill.jpg" alt="" width="850" height="567" /></p>

<p>Love it, spot on! Though I've never had a Leica with a meter.</p>

<p>I owned both a Noctilux and a 75 'lux for many years. I know how to drive them and I am hardly awed by their expense (and funny that *you* should mention it). Your image is not sharp. If you can't see this, then no amount of "enlightening" on my part can be useful. I found the essay silly, frankly, and perfectly epitomized by this little exchange:<br>

<strong>JE:</strong> How about a Leica M9 a la carte instead?<br>

<strong>ST:</strong> Of course, that would be nice, but mind you there are not so many elements of the camera that can be varied, unlike with the film Leicas. We made a very small run of Leica M8 with silver elements and purple leather coverings, they were very popular. Another even more popular special was the <a onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','en.leica-camera.com']);" href="http://en.leica-camera.com/photography/special_editions/leica_M8-2_safari/" target="_blank">Leica M8 Safari</a>, which was sold out even before launch. The White lasted a little longer, even though white is a very popular color in Japan.<br>

Ah, yes, the future of Leica . . .</p>

 

<p>Your sense of focus and mine are quite different, I think.</p>

<p>Yet another out of focus Noctilux image: the lens that everyone covets and that no one actually knows how to use.</p>

<p>Sounds like loose screws to me. I've adjusted these many times on several Summicrons. Jeweler's screwdrivers are commonly available at Radio Shacks and the big-box stores (though you may have to ask someone where they are). Also buy a small file. Depending on the set, you may need to narrow a given blade so not as to mar the finish of the countersunk screw hole. Quality will vary considerably, but for a one off, who cares? Maybe a $10 or $15 investment. I bought a large set of Wiha screwdrivers for precisely this sort of thing several years ago. Fairly expensive, but great quality. Lots of camera repair tools and materials at Micro-Tools, which is a great site whether you want to dismantle your Leica or not.</p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

<p>Chandos</p>

<p> </p>

<p><img src="http://cmbrow.people.wm.edu/photography/New/tonyandbill.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="534" /></p>

<p>In general, I avoid such questions, but 30 years ago, I simply purchased a 1/4 -20 bolt (tripod thread) from the local hardware store, ground the head down a bit, drilled a hole through it, and affixed a split ring and short, home-made strap between it and the most comfortable strap eyelet on the body. Had the added benefit of taking care of the bottom plate when changing film.<br /> But, then, I couldn't pose a fetishistic question to the interweb about how best to carry my Leica. I simply made do.<br /> BTW, never again felt the need for such an arrangement.<br /> YMMV.<br /> <br /> Cheers!</p>

<p>Chandos</p>

<p>One should also note that the Nocti at full aperture is an exceedingly difficult lens to focus correctly, especially in the low light situations for which it was designed. I used mine on an M4P that was modified with an M3 viewfinder, which made it comparatively easier given the M3s 1:1 VF.<br>

The proportion of near misses was just astronomical, so I ended up selling both it and the 75 'lux. Very specialized lenses that require considerable practice to use effectively. The DOF at f1 is paper thin.<br>

Pushing film is good (and cheap) by comparison.</p>

<p>Cheers!<br>

Chandos</p>

<p> </p>

The winder goes on exactly as though it were an ordinary baseplate. Be sure that the latch is in the open position or it won't seat. There's a switch that turns it on, once mounted, that should be self explanatory. Leica cautions against using the winder speed at slow shutter speeds (below 1/30, if I recollect), but I never had any issues with "dry" firing the shutter at speeds above this, which was necessary when I replaced the actuator reed switch on one of mine and needed to test and adjust its operation.

 

Cheers!

 

Chandos

And another:

 

<align="center"><img src="http://cmbrow.people.wm.edu/photography/New/john_elenore.jpg">

<align="left">

<p>I'm not much for 35mm landscapes--or landscapes at all, for that matter--but I made these with the Voigtlander Heliar 15 mounted on a IIIF. Can't recall the exposure data or the film stock (probably Portra 160VC) and offer them solely as an example of the quality of the CV lenses. The 21 on the G2 is a spectacular package, though I sold on my G system stuff years ago.</p>

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<p><img src="http://cmbrow.people.wm.edu/photography/New/dam01.jpg" width="800" height="539"></p>

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<p><img src="http://cmbrow.people.wm.edu/photography/New/dam2.jpg" width="800" height="547"></p>

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<p><img src="http://cmbrow.people.wm.edu/photography/New/dam03.jpg" width="800" height="538"></p>

Youxin Ye--fast, reasonable, an excellent craftsman, and a nice guy.