terence1

C. i sold my M3, MP, M7 and all my M-lenses. now i shoot with Nikon D-SLR.

Mark, if you search through the site you'll probably find more info here than you can digest in a day or two. i'm sure you'll

get the answers you want from the collected wisdom here in photo,net.

Totally agree with Jeff Spirer here.

Wing Shing Camera Co in Mongkok, Kowloon gives you the best deal in town. The salesmen

there don't speak English that well though. Anyway, this lens is so popular that it frequently

runs out of stock. You may get it elsewhere (eg the camera stores in Tsimshatsui) if you're

willing to pay a premium.

Chairs instead of a chair.

Trevor, I love your image a lot.

"I'm curious for what applications the 10mpix vs 6mpix difference will make a real

difference? It must make a difference, because the digital SLR companies are locked in a

megapixel race it seems."

 

As far as I understand, pixel count, expressed as megapixels, is just the multiplication

product of the number of horizontal and the vertical pixels. Your RD-1 has a 6.1

megapixel APS C-size CCD sensor with 3,008 (horizontal) x 2,000 pixels (vertical), and

should be able to give you decent 16ﾡﾨ x 20ﾡﾨ prints.

 

In fact, a 10MP camera only have 40% more linear resolution than that of a 5MP camera.

And this kind of difference is almost invisible to most, if not all, people. For any visible

improvement in resolution, you need at least a doubling of linear resolution. This means

you need to quadruple your megapixels to get any visible results.

 

I believe the ﾡﾥmegapixel warﾡﾦ is pretty much a marketing war that could quickly replace the

ﾡﾥmegahertz warﾡﾦ. I just bought my Casio EX-Z850 (8.1MB) the day EX-Z1000 (10MB) was

released, with a bargain of course.

 

So, to answer your question Frederick, the difference between a 6MB and a 10MB, when

you blow up to 16" x 20", should be minimal, if at all visible.

i bought and sold a leica o-series last year. but as a previous user i can tell you it's no fun at all to use. it's more a toy than a camera. a screw mount leica in good condition is probably what you should look for.

(1) carry-on baggage: no problems at all even for high speed film.

(2) checked luggage: may be CT scanned, and if that's the case, your films are

useless.

 

the above apply to both exposed and unexposed films.

i have a rapidwinder and a mtor, and i use the former a lot more. the motor has a

built-in handgrip, which is an advantage to some people. rapidwinder becomes silky

smooth after some use, and is much less expensive than the leicavit.

interesting...negatives (type?) + professional film camera + amateur film scanner VS

consumer grade digital camera...what meaningful results will this exercise produce?

nw..just smile<div></div>

go get one. it's accurate; it's compact; it's easy to use; it's just great. i use it on my

M3.

here we go.

another slip-up! please accept my apology.

sorry everyone. a resized photo here.

Kids are beautiful. Like this one.

I use all kinds of cheap bags with Billingham inserts.

That's what I call black & white.

Nice work Damian!

rangefinder whiteout flare - "shade" from lutz.

 

smooth transition from leica m6 to 6x6 medium format - mamiya 6.

 

hope the above help.

Thanks everyone for their valuable input. Special thanks to Kaj, who uncover this

hidden command for me.

Does anyone know how to get multiple exposures with Hexar AF, the fixed lens

Hexar?

you may buy from tom's representative in hong kong, dr joseph yao (joseph@yao.com). he's a wonderful person to deal with. i bought all my softies, rapidgrip and rapidwinder from joseph, and i'm pleased with both the products and the services i received.

Thanks Joel and John. I appreciate it.

Can anyone tell me where I can get a copy of the instruction manual

for CL? Many thanks!