allan_melnyk

As has been discussed else where... FD's were better "builds". As for trying to hold the focus ring while trying to dismount/mount the hood... it is very difficult since it is only a very small "sliver" and the hood makes it that much harder to get at.

Of course, it would be nice to replace all my FD stuff with a complete EOS system but my FD system is pretty good (includes canon 100mm macro, and an 85-300 zoom - almost L lens) plus a couple of bodies and other lens and flash. I am hoping to augment things with a 100-400 USM IS when I get some money... it appears that I will be in "split mode" for a few years to come...:-( but ultimately I do like canon stuff as it gives good service and pictures. I like the auto focus stuff now because my eye sight is not as good as it use to be including a "vision" hole in my master eye... so I now use my left instead. The 7e give me great pictures that I wouldn't necessarily get with my FD stuff although with a bit more setup time, both are great.

Thanks for the responses... I guess the "hood habit" came from my FD days and needs to be broken from what you are telling me. It would appear that any of the "cheaper" EOS lenses that don't have FTM will be a problem with hoods. Again thanks.

Help...I sometimes use a EW-60D hood on my 28-90 USM with an ELAN7e

but when I try to take it off, I hear this "awful racheting sound" as

the front of the lens (focus) turns "under strain" to dismount the

hood. The sound is the same as if you try to turn the focus ring when

the lens M/F switch is not set to manual. Of course, this lens does

not have the full time manual focus. My question is... have I or will

I ruin the lens if I continue to use this technique for taking the

hood off. Secondaryly, it appears that the only way around this is to

put the lens in "M" mode and let the focus ring go to the end of the

"scale" which then allows the force to detach the hood... is this the

"proper" method perhaps?

 

Thanks

"ok without my polarizer on the camera reads 350/11-13 but when I put on my polarizer it reads 180/9.5 is this correct or should I be under exposing the sky to get back in line with my original readings of 350/11-13 which again is what the ttl meter says with just the skylight filter on"

 

I think what Desmond was after here was clarification on whether additional "underexposure" compensation is needed to get a "better" sky. As was pointed out, the exposure with the polarizer is compensated / calculated for the reduced lighting but if I am not mistaken, the result will still be the same... with may be some slightly better detail but the reading still needs some further adjustment either thru reducing the aperture or increasing the speed by maybe a stop.

If I was going to build all the stuff that you have listed, I would save some initial anguish and buy the cheapest canon release (sorry I don't know what that is for the EOS3... I have Elan 7e) either new or used. Then, I would "gently" hack it to see how it was done and add sockets/connectors to it at the "do it you self" price to get the rest of your planned accessories. This way you get a "good" socket to start with along with functional understanding but still have the future savings associated with your other plans. I did this for my Elan 7e albeit a simpler connector, I adapted it for use my LC-1 remote.