javed_shakoor

I’m using a Nikon D850 and trying to fire a couple of strobes with a Nikon SU-800. I’ve turned the pre-flashes off on the SU-800. The strobes fire but there is no picture. Can you tell me what I’m doing wrong. 
Thanks in advance
 Javed Shakoor

I did and, actually, I did much better when I used a 60/2.8 lens. When set to life-size this lens gave me better working

distance and excellent sharpness.

Having said all this, and after spending all that money on it, I must confess I don't see much use for a PB-6M! Can't think

of many situations where I'd use it, especially with those clips on each side. If you're photographing a coin, you would

need to stick it on to a cardboard or something to keep those clips out of the image.

I think you may be mixing up a PB-6M with a PB-6E, Richard. The PB-6M is just a copy stand and does not add any

extension. The PB-6E is the extension bellows which fits on to the PB-6.

<p>I am trying to take photos of coins with a D700 and a 55/2.8 macro lens with the above equipment. The problem I am having is that the pb-6m attaches to the end of the pb-6 and there is not enough distance to focus. What am I doing wrong and, basically, how does one use a pb-6m with a pb-6?<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>I have a HP7960 Photosmart printer and, inexplicably, two of the plastic clips holding the ink cartridges in place have broken. Can someone please point me to a place where I can get replacements for these parts? I have looked all over the internet and cannot find them.<br>

Would be very grateful for a response because I would hate to throw away this otherwise excellent printer.<br>

Thank you in advance<br>

Javed</p>

<p>Just thought I'd put on the forum how I managed to solve the problem by another method. May come in useful for someone else.</p>

<ol>

<li>Make a rectangular marquee selection of the top half of the circular dome.</li>

<li>Copy this to another layer (Ctl-J). Select this new layer</li>

<li>Go into Free Transform (Ctl-T) and do a Flip Vertically</li>

<li>Use the Warp tool in Free Transform to align the pattern with the underlying layer. Helps if you keep the opacity of the layer at a level where you can see the underlying layer.</li>

</ol>

<p>The above method works because you have repeating patterns all round the circle. A copy of the corrected image is attached. It is mostly OK except for a slight misalignment of lines on the left side. This could also have been easily corrected, if I had noticed it at the time.<br>

Thanks to everyone for their help.<br>

Javed</p><div></div>

<p>Would be grateful if someone could show me how to use the red channel to correct the problem. My PS skills are too limited for me to figure it out myself.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Sorry, I should have posted the photo in the first place. Here it is now. The blue blob is at the bottom.<br>

Would be most grateful for pointers on how to correct this.</p><div></div>

<p>I took a photo of the dome of an old Mughal period mosque recently. This mosque is a beautiful example of Mughal architecture, and this dome is quite amazing for the intricate inscriptions and lacquer work on it. Unfortunately, I was using the Nikon 15mm 3.5 lens, which is notorious for its tendency towards flare and ghosting and, unnoticed by me at the time, there was a small window on one side of the dome letting in bright sunlight. This has resulted in a very unsightly blue blob on the opposite side from the window. The rest of the photo is reasonably well exposed. I would be very grateful if somebody on the forum could guide me as to how I could get rid of this problem. I am reasonably familiar with Photoshop, although by no means an expert. Tried to clone the blob out but that didn't work too well because of the inscriptions in the area.<br>

Thanks in advance<br>

Javed</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for all the responses. The links provided were full of very useful information. Can't help wishing, however, that Nikon had clarified this point in the User Manual. They clearly state that the built-in flash, or any of the other groups, will not fire if they are set to '--'.<br>

Thanks again for all the help.</p>

<p>I have a setup with an SB900 and a SB800 used as remote flashes in a wireless setup. Both these are set as remote flashes. Custom function e3 (Commander mode) on the D700 has been set up so that both these flashes are in TTL mode and the built-in flash has been set to 'Flash cancelled' (--). The channel has been set to 1 in all three flashes. The problem is that, while the SB900 and SB800 fire as they should, the built-in flash also fires when I take the shot. Somehow I can't get the built-in flash to not fire. Would be grateful if someone can tell me what I am doing wrong.<br>

Thanks in advance for the help<br>

Javed Shakoor</p>

I have just bought a Nikon PG-2 focusing stage and realized, after I

had bought it, that it is impossible to attach it to the tripod

collar provided on my PN-11 extension tube when using it with the

105mm macro lens. Can't understand why Nikon did this, since one

often uses a combination of lens, extension tube/s, teleconverters,

etc when doing close-up work; and having to attach the whole assembly

to the tripod socket in the camera would obviously result in all the

unbalanced load falling on the camera lens mount. Can anyone suggest

a way around this?

Javed Shakoor