nanasousadias

<p>There are not many 4x5 field cameras with so many movements as the Shen Hao TZ45-IIB and HZX45IIA. Both are great cameras for their cost.<br>

I had a Cherrywood Wista 45 DXII and I sold it, after buying the Shen Hao HZX 45 IIA, wich is a great camera with a lot of movements, good bellows extension and has a very important feature to me, wich is the possibility to move the back forward, very important to use with extreme wide angle lens like the 47mm.</p>

WT

 

Thank you WT for your post!!!! ;-) Lolololol

Thank you, Neal, that's a good idea!

I think I didn't made myself understood. What I would need is some more tilt movement on the back standard. The angle of tilt movement on the back is very short, on this camera.

I recently bought an old 8x10 Kodak 2D, I would like to know if

someone knows about a simple modification wich could give a little

bit extra tilt movement on the back standard? I know there is a

simple way of adding tilt to the front standard, but I'm using a lens

that barely cover the negative. Thank you.

Go to a camera repairman and ask him to loose the ring! Ask him to sell you a lens wrench tool, or to tell you where you can buy one, for future operations like this! I bought one on Ebay, it's cheap! Regards.

With those 90mm lens, you don't need nothing special, in horizontal view! However, if you want to shoot in vertical view, you must drop the front bed.You don't need a recessed lens board for those lenses. For wider lenses, there is a special Linhof focus device wich is tremendously expensive, yet, very effective.

I've done 2 8x10 GG, myself, with grinding valve paste. It works, but it's a bit grainy. You can do it in 30m. Use the thinest paste you can find. Fix a bigger (14x20) piece of glass, with tape, to a table, or other surface. This piece of glass, will be worthless, after you finish your work! You can keep it to do other GG, in the future. Then, you put the paste in the middle of the glass base, put your future GG on top and, with your hand, do circular movements, untill the frosted surface is homogen. This will hapen about 30m work. If you do this, everyday, your right arm will be similar to that of the California Governor!!!

Just look at john Sexton material (photos). He uses Tmax 100 and 400. If you like it (I think you will), try the films. That's what I did.

I think you should wait for the release of the new 4800 dpi Epson scanner, wich is announced for February, 2004. I think it'll be a winner!

I have a Schneider 360/6.8 Symmar-S, can anybody tell me if I can use

this lens with a 11x14 camera? Thanks

Ron:

 

The best (and probably the only one!) place where you can find Fuji quickloads it's Colorfoto, at Praça de Alvalade,2-D , in Lisbon. Their email is: colorfoto@alvalade.pt , you can talk to Mr.Jose Manuel or Mr. Joao Afonso, you can mention my name, I think it will simplify things, I'm one of few guys still shooting large format, nowadays, I think, in Portugal, and I always buy film in that store.I just shoot Tmax 100 Readyloads, I don't know about Fuji's price, but a box of 20 Tmax 100 Readyloads (single), costs about 30 Euros.Perhaps this can give you an idea of the correspondence of prices. I hope this helps. If you need to know somwthing more about Portugal, email me: ousadias@netcabo.pt

I have the 8x10 Legend, and a Shneider 360/6.8 Symmar-S. It's a huge lens! It's a huge camera! 3 feet from the car will be ok! More than that is pure madness! ;-)

Bob, I live in Lisbon, Portugal, anyway I have solved the problem, I just wanted to tell people to check their cameras!

After reading about some misalignment of ground glasses, with film

plane, I checked my Wista DXII 4x5 (Cherrywood version), to see how

it was aligned and found out that there was a diference between

ground glass and film plane of around 2mm!!! I checked it several

times, because I didn't believe it was possible such a diference! I

checked it with Toyo, Lisco and Kodak Readyload film holders and the

result was the same with all of it! Circa 2mm diference. I checked a

cheap 4x5 camera I have, a Bender, and it's perfectly aligned. I

don't know if it was bad luck, but if some of you have a camera like

this, (Wista DXII)you should check it! I solved the problem very

easy, with strips of tape, to increase the distance between lens and

GG. Excuse me for the bad English!

Gene, I have that lens, and the filter diameter is definitely 82mm, 85 mm is the diameter of the lens cap, as happens with some Nikkor lenses, the diameter of the cap is engraved on it. For example the Nikkor's W 210/5.6 cap says 70mm, but the filter diameter is 67mm. That Fuji 90mm is a great lens, it's the one I use most time!

Well, sometimes, it take about 30 minutes to NOT take any picture at all! Usually, I use a Wista DXII with a reflex viewfinder, wich can reduce the preparation time a bit, but, even when I use it, sometimes, it will take 15 m or so, othertimes, I can take the picture within 1 to 5 minutes, it depends a lot on the movements you need to correct what you are "seeing". I use also a digital camera, as a Polaroid, to have some guide about exposure and composition.

1 - Durst 139 G 5x7 enlarger, with 5 condensers, 210/5.6, 150/5.6 and 75/4.5 Schneider Componon lenses, vacuum easel, copy stand, all for 500 Euros (+/- 500 USD), last summer.

 

2 - Ricoh GR1s, superb camera, for the price!

 

3 - Pentax 67 and my 3 favourite lenses, 35mm Semi-fisheye, 45mm and 135mm Macro.

A polarizing filter can reduce light by 2 1/2 stops, at its maximum polarizing effect, on a surface that reacts to polarization (ex. water or glass)within a 90º angle to the sun. Some materials doesn´t react at all to polarization, ex metallic surfaces, so, this can be hard to manage, the best way is to use the filter in a spot meter, as it has been told.

I think you will like HP5, on 8x10 things are a bit diferent! You don't see grain at all in a contact print and the tones are much more than you see in 35mm. I've shoot only once with 8x10, with a HP5 and made a single contact print, wich hapened to be ok at first attempt. You can see it here:

http://www.photo.net/photo/876926&size=lg

I use a Fuji 90/5.6 SWD, I like it a lot, you don't need any filter and the image circle is 235mm. It's a very sharp lens, but heavy.

Jorge: I've made a lot of 4x5 enlargements, and just one 8x10 contact print. I have no doubts, you will never have the same quality with an enlargement! Just try it! Michael Smith and Paula Chamlee, for example, do contact prints, only. That's why they carry heavy cameras all over the world!

I've done very consistent A3+ prints (13x19")with an Epson Stylus Photo 2000 of 4x5 negatives, scanned on Epson 1640, at 1000 dpi. I think you can have much better results with the 2450.

Marshall: Clap, clap, clap! You explained in a very simple simple way, something many people have to search a lot in Ansel Adams books! Everything is in the book, of course, but the "Man" had so much things to write on that book, that, sometimes, it's hard to find what we really need to know! When I travel, I always carry some books with me, "The negative" and "The print" are always among them, everytime I open it, I find something new!

I have a Wista 45 DX, and one of my lenses is a Fujinon 90/5.6 SWD, I never had any problem using it in landscape photo.