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tom grubbe

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Posts posted by tom grubbe

    Canon 5D Mark II vs. Pentax 67

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I've been shooting a Pentax 67II since 1999 and recently "retired" it for the Canon 5D MkII. I was reluctant to do it because I was so used to shooting with it and creating those awesome 6x7 slides. But I don't regret it at all. Here's why:<br /> <br /> Cost:<br /> Shooting a 6x7 slide cost about $7.21/roll 120 slide film + $8.46/roll development processing which comes out to roughly $1.57 per shot.<br /> <br /> IQ:<br /> And this goes to your question - For years I scanned my own 6x7 slides using a Minolta Dimage Scan Multi and made beautiful 24x20" prints from these scanned images. The images used for these prints are only 3000x2500x300dpi. When I shoot through the MkII the RAW images are 5600x3700x300dpi and are noticeably more detailed and can easily stand up those 24x20" print scans.<br /> <br /> Weight:<br /> The P67 is a big hulking hunk of camera that can't ever be used handheld IMO. After 10 years of shooting with a tripod I'm starting to like shooting the 5DMkII handheld once in a while (but not for landscapes). It's also easier to hike with the bag full of Canon gear versus the Pentax bag.<br /> <br /> Versatility:<br /> Where do I start? So many useful adjustments that you can change on the fly that are not available in the P67 like ISO, white balance, picture style, RAW vs jpeg, Highlight tone priority, etc. And speed - as mentioned earlier, you can click off a series of shots, use exposure bracketing, expose for HDR images.<br /> <br /> Post processing:<br /> I used to spend 20-30 minutes per image removing dust from the scan and trying to match the color of the slide on the light table. I don't spend nearly as much time post processing my digital images although they are big. The RAW images are about 23MB. Convert these to 48-bit TIFF's bump them up to around 110MB each.<br /> <br /> RAW processing:<br /> I've thrown away so many slides because of exposure issues than I care to mention. If you shoot in RAW you can correct many of these shots in software. Also shooting RAW helps me to learn how to shoot certain scenes in different light before hand, and then choose the correct white balance/exposure later at the scene. It's a good learning tool (for me anyway).<br /> <br /> I was also concerned about image quality before making the decision to buy the 5DMkII. If that were all there was to it, I think it beats the Pentax - at least for my type of photography. But there is so much more and so many other advantages that it becomes a no-brainer.</p>

     

    Filter stuck on a 17-40/4L

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>I once had a B&W 81B warming filter stuck in the threads of a Hoya polarizer for months. I couldn't get them unstuck no matter what I tried. Then I was shooting in the cold in the mountains and they "magically" unscrewed. I'm not saying put your 17-40/4L lens in the freezer but for stacked filters this will work.</p>

    Full-frame Loupe for 6x7 slides?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Thanks much. But you gave me B&H links to...</p>

    <ul>

    <li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh3.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___187214___COL66___REG___CatID=987___SID=F21B41BE760">Contax Carl Zeiss Triotar T* 3x Loupe for 6x6 </a></li>

    <li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh3.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___194202___MAL3.5X___REG___CatID=987___SID=F21B41BE760">Mamiya 3.5x Loupe for 6x6 and 6x4.5</a></li>

    <li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh3.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___194203___MAL3X___REG___CatID=987___SID=F21B41BE760">Mamiya 3x Loupe for 6x7</a></li>

    <li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh3.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___214582___SCL67___REG___CatID=987___SID=F21B41BE760">Schneider 6x7 Magnifier</a></li>

    <li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh3.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___125877___ROL66___REG___CatID=987___SID=F21B41BE760">Rodenstock 3x Aspheric Loupe for 6x6</a></li>

    <li><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh3.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___165987___ROM6___REG___CatID=987___SID=F21B41BE760">Rollei 3x Magnifier for 6x6</a></li>

    </ul>

    <p>While that's helpful (really!), it still doesn't help with user experience. Does anyone have any opinions on any of these?</p>

    Full-frame Loupe for 6x7 slides?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Hi, I looked through some of the older posts on this topic (1997)

    and while helpful, are quite dated. Maybe someone uses a newer loupe

    that might fit my needs.

     

    I shoot a Pentax 67II and already own a Schneider 4x and a (tiny)

    Schneider 8x. I also shoot 35mm and the 4x is great for viewing a

    slide full-frame. The 8x is always good for judging detail no mater

    which format I'm viewing. But with 6x7 it's somewhat difficult to

    judge composition (and detail) with the 4x when viewing only half the

    slide.

     

    Question - is there a quality loupe that will view a 6x7 slide full

    frame (or almost full frame)? I've seen mentioned on this board the

    Pentax 5.5x, the Kenco Precision Loupe 3x and others though I'm not

    at all limiting myself to these brands/models. I'd like your opinion

    on what you have used for your own MF work (price not an issue).

    Tripod, Head and Plate for P67II

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    In my experience doing landscapes and scenics, I have used the Gitzo 224 tripod (aluminium) with a Bogen 3047 head which is a rather light combo but I always used it with MLU and set as low as I could get it. Recently I have used a Gitzo 1325, a Arca Swiss B1 and RRS plates which is even lighter (carbon fiber) and am delighted with the hold the B1 has on the big P67 even with a 200mm attached. The 1325 has no center column which makes it very light and the RRS plates fit like a glove so verticals won't rotate on their own. I'm very pleased with this setup!

    Cokin P system with Canon EF 24-85

    in Nature

    Posted

    Yes, I have had the vigneting problem with the same lense and the Cokin "P" holder. I did saw off the outer two slots which helps greatly but using an additional screw-on filter (e.g. polerizer) still shows a hint of vigneting but not enough to be too concerned. Back up and zoom out a tad.

    Shutter Speed for Streams and Rivers?

    in Nature

    Posted

    <p>I've found that it depends on your film and the scene you intend to shoot in addition to the effect you intend to get. Since your recent shot "Fox Road" was shot with Kodak Max 400 I would buy at least a 3-stop screw-on ND filter to slow it down enough, or much slower film (50-100 or so). </p>

     

    <p>I generally use the slower ISO 50 (Velvia) or ISO 100 (E100VS) speed slide film which allows me to achieve this effect in a wide variety of lighting conditions. The amount of "silk" in the water is generally a matter of taste and can range from just a hint of motion to a completely cloudy or foggy look. In these (rather crappy) images of a Gilroy California stream I took a 2 second exposure and a 1/4 second exposure. I just adjusted the aperture (the camera was on apertured priority) and the shutter speed compensated to keep an accurate exposure. I tend to prefer the 1/4 second exposure but you may disagree.</p>

     

    <p>Sometimes, because of lighting conditions, a slow shutter speed is mandatory - when shooting a stream in a heavily canopied forest or shooting after the sun goes down, for example. The opposite is also true - sometimes you can't get a slow enough shutter speed in daylight conditions so use a screw-on Neutral Density (ND) filter to help slow down the shutter speed.</p>

     

    Oh, use a tripod!

     

    <p>--Tom</p><div>003UpN-8747084.jpg.6bbcddc997e81c9081f66c56a80655f1.jpg</div>

    Help a landscape photographer shoot a company picnic (people)

    in Portraits & Fashion

    Posted

    <p>Thanks guys,</p>

     

    <p>Jeff, thanks for the very helpful comment which prompts me to clarify my question a bit:</p>

    <ul>

    <li>The film suggestions are very useful but I need to use slide film since the Minolta Dimage Scan multi only supports slides.</li>

    <li>I gave the wrong impression about the shadows. I used a TTL flash unit last year (Sunpak Power Zoom 4000AF) but I probably <b>mis-used</b> it (didn't know when to choose TTL, FULL, 1/6, zoom, etc. or wouldn't go off at all). If there's a resource/link on flash usage gimmie a link, or maybe advice on a new flash unit ;)</li>

    <li>Jeff touched on what I really need to get into my head - the approach to shooting people versus the slow set-up of a landscape shoot. For example, I would actually shoot them while they were eating (yuk) or often would shoot a decent subject but have a ton of distractions (other picnickers) get in the way.</li>

    </ul>

     

    <p>The above examples help even if they're not perfect shots. Maybe I can post one from last year...</p>

     

    <p>--Tom</p><div>003Uoc-8746884.jpg.af05b2bf9ab2b030fcf9163ebedceb9f.jpg</div>

    Help a landscape photographer shoot a company picnic (people)

    in Portraits & Fashion

    Posted

    <p>Hi, I normally shoot landscapes/scenics with a tripod, velvia,

    etc. But my company asked my to shoot/document this year's Summer

    Picnic at a park in California since I'm the "photographer guy" in

    the company (the picnic is July 28th 2002). I did this last year and

    the results were horrible - I'm good at landscape/scenic stuff but

    need some help with this kind of shoot.</p>

     

    <p>The equipment I'll have is:</p>

    <ul>

    <li>Canon EOS 1V</li>

    <li>Canon 24-85 zoom</li>

    <li>Canon 70-300 IS zoom</li>

    <li>Film ???</li>

    </ul>

     

    <p>Last year I shot with Elite chrome 200 I think. The shots were at

    high noon or near thereabouts and the shadows were killers, I was

    uncomforable shooting people even though I knew them and handholding

    (with flash) was very weird for a landscape guy like me.</p>

     

    <p>I need the following advice:<p>

     

    <ol>

    <li>What (slide) film should I use for a summer afternoon people-

    shoot?</li>

    <li>What approach should I use when I see a good subject/situation

    knowing that I'm still uncomforable shooting this way?</li>

    <li>The only good shot last year was the "group shot" with everyone

    posing/smiling. Any advice for the group shot is also

    appreciated.</li>

    </ol>

     

    <p>Note, this not a professional gig but rather a documentary kind of

    thing and of course an opportunity for me to learn ;-)</p>

     

    <p>Thanks for and advice!</p>

     

    <p>--Tom Grubbe<br>

    http://www.tomgrubbe.com</p>

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