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markus_keinath1

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Posts posted by markus_keinath1

  1. <p>There are old macro focusing converters around on Ebay, for example from Vivitar.<br />They have an extender lens group inside, and a nice helical focus mount around. Suppose one could buy those for ~ USD 60.<br>

    On have to do some DIY work on that to get the lens away.<br /><br />I have one or two at home for my work. If needed I can measure the inner diameter (mail me if I should).</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>I would take the lens away, and look into the mirror box. Then fire the shutter with 1 second or longer exposure time. Do you see the full sensor? Yes - shutter is ok. No - shutter is defect.<br>

    One can repalce the shutter - I think some did that on their own (search my link directory). But you need the spare part, and it is much work - with some risks.<br />To have the camera repaired, would cost much (at least in Germany where I live). An newer camera would be the best way I think (but used camera have a risk too).</p>

  3. <p>If that lens would be mine, I would try to search a way to connect the manual focus ring to the internal focus. But as stated before, this is not an easy part. And probably the inner movement of the IF part is not easy to translate into the ring movement. And even if one get that to work, it is very likely that the conversion is not as fine as the old FD 300/2.8L focus movement. Probably the lens is not usabel for any faster focus action. <br /><br />Because of this, I would not pay more than ~ USD 400 for such a defect lens.</p>
  4. <p>Dead bugs are a good starting point for fungus.<br />So better store the lens right (normal dry air, not Peli cases for months..)<br>

    I think that was a bug, but I had a even more bug like looking one.<br>

    <img src="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Linse-vor-Reinigung-.jpg" alt="" width="267" height="300" /><br /><br />Big image could be found on my German fungus site:<br /><a href="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz.html">http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz.html</a></p>

  5. <p>Bit lat, but I build today a manual 8 mm extension tube for Canon EF mount.<br>

    It is made out of the front and back part of an cheap chinese extension tube set without any electronics, its only a mechanic tube.<br>

    I have to use my lathe and a file. <br />I think in some ours I will add a shot How To with some pictures to my webpage.<br />You will find it here in my own DIY list when it is ready:<br>

    http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Photo-DIY.html</p>

  6. <p>I have the EF 50/1.4 - and have used it long time on my EOS Rebel XT and EOS 5D - but not use it any more.<br />I own the EF 50/1.8 in both versions - I don´t like them. I like metal, I like the posibility for the IR correction (not good possible on EF 50/1.8 II).<br>

    I own the old Zeiss (Contax/Yashica) 50/1.4 and 50/1.7 too, but I don´t use those often. <br />Why?<br />I have a DIY converted <a href="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/minolta-rokkor-58-to-canon-eos-conversion.html">Minolta Rokkor 58mm f/1.2</a>, that is my personal favorite ~ 50 mm lens. That lens is not perfect, highlights could "glow", at least when the lens is used wide open. But I use the glowing as a part of my photography.</p>

  7. <p>I bought last weekend a Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8 with Exakta mount.<br />At the moment I have no Ef adapter.<br />For me it seems, that the Exakta mount (not the lenses itself) protrudes too much into the camera - an EOS 5D. Becasue of that I am thinking to disassemble the Exakta mount ring from the lens, and make a kind of conversion to use that lens on my EOS camera.<br>

    Other possibility could probably be a changed infinity adjustment of the lens itself and a kind of macro adapter that hold the lens housing 1-2 mm further away from the sensor. But it seems such adapters are not avialble?</p>

     

  8. <p>I converted a <a href="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Canon-FD300-2.8-EF-Umbau.html">Canon FD 300/2.8 L</a> and a <a href="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Canon-FD100-4.0-Macro-EOS-EF-Umbau.html">FD 100/4 Macro</a> to Canon EF mount. Both with infinity setting and working iris.<br />As Tommy mentioned the iris lingage is often a problem with FD lens conversions, you could see my ways to do that on my conversion pages. I have done that without a lathe or a mill. I bought a lathe very cheap, and I think with that the next conversions should be better :-)<br>

    <br />I suppose on an zoom lens the lingage could be even more problematic because the iris moves a wide range an the iris lingage crank has to be properlsy supported.</p>

    <p> </p>

  9. <p>I don´t think that the fungus infection risk is high.The spores from inside the lens must come out, and come inside other lenses. That is possible - but fungus spores are around in the air, on the fingers... <br />Fungus on lenses break out even if no fungus lens was around to submitt the inital spores.<br>

    But this is my opinion without beeing a biologist. There is not much info around on fungus. Best one is an <a href="http://www.europa.com/~telscope/Canadian.Army/Fogging.Filming.Fungus.A278.1954.pdf">old Canadian army document</a>.</p>

     

  10. <p>For me this blemishes looks more like cleaning blemishes from not opimal dried cleaning liquids.<br>

    Here I have a picture of fungus etchings and some scratches from the test to remove the etchings with cigarette ash:<br>

    <img src="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Glaspilz-Verguetung.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="558" /><br>

    More fungus pictures on the German part of <a href="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz.html">my website</a>, <a href="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz_reinigung.html">2</a>, <a href="http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz-apo-rodagon-50.html">3</a></p>

  11. <p>Best use of FD lenses is on FD cameras - or as stated before with an adapter without (!!) lens - probably without infinity on super tele lenses or with only mako usage. 4/3 camera are a option too - but I do not like that because ~3/4 of the corrected and intended image field is lost.<br /> I think - my opinon - the best way is a lens conversion. It is not easy on most Canon FD lenses, but for some lenses it is worth. Not all lenses work with every camera (mirror clearance)!<br /> I use 4 FD lenses on my EOS DSLRs. For Yashica it should be possible too for some FD lenses, but better check before.</p>
  12. <p>I think the 800 mm on a 4/3 camera is not that good:<br>

    The quality of the lens is probably (!) not good enough for the small pixels of some 4/3 cameras. I would reccomend a full frame 24x36mm camera. I suppose the resolution difference between 4/3 "sweet spot" and the full frame is not that big on good tele lenses.With the smaller pixels the focussing must be finer, to get the sharpnees on the right point. Not sure how fine the focussing on that lens is.<br>

    I have a FD 300/2.8 L converted to Canon EF, and it is fine on the EOS 5D<br>

    Probably you could use the lens with an adapter (without lens) on you Nikon cameras - do you need infinity? Don´t know, how much behind infinity the lens focus?</p>

     

  13. <p>Yes, that distortion is a real problem. I think I would need correction only for few images (I photograph not so much architecture and so on). The images I would like distortion free, could be corrected with PTLens, a sample is on my <a href="http://www.4photos.de/test/Samyang-14mm-2.8-en.html">website</a><br>

    It is good, that only minor border area is lost through the correction - but it is clear, that the image resolution is less after correction.</p>

  14. <p>[Had problems with the hyperlinks and allowed correction time]<br /><br />Now the Samyang 14 mm lens is in the <a href="http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/index.html">PTLens</a> database implemented, so there is a method to correct (as I understand not 100%) the distortion - that would be ok for me, because I do not photograph mainly architecture and such things.<br /> <br />You could see in the <a href="http://www.dslr-forum.de/showpost.php?p=6546941&postcount=255">German DSLR-Forum</a> a corrected image.<br />Here on this site <a href="http://www.4photos.de/test/Samyang-14mm-2.8.html">Samyang 14 mm site</a> is the original image with the moustache distortion</p>
  15. <p>Now the Samyang 14 mm lens is in the PTLens database implemented, so there is a method to correct (as I understand not 100%) the distortion - that would be ok for me, because I do not photograph mainly architecture and such things.<br />http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/index.html<br />You could see there<br /><a href="http://www.dslr-forum.de/showpost.php?p=6546941&postcount=255" >DSLR-Forum</a><br />a corrected image.<br />Here is the original image with the moustache distortion<br /><a href="http://www.4photos.de/test/Samyang-14mm-2.8.html" >Samyang 14 mm site</a></p>

    <p> </p>

  16. <p>Samyang is a Korean optical manufacturer:<br />http://www.syopt.co.kr/eng/product/manual_zoom.asp<br />In German photo boards the company is better known - because of the cheap 85/1.4 lens Samyang sells and cheap fisheye lenses for crop DSLR cameras.<br>

    The 14/2.8 is new - I think the first samples of the series production are deliverd last week. There are pictures of a preseries around, the had prolonged the series starts some months (half a year something).<br /><br />The lens has this moustache like distortion - and there are perpective distortion which I think all 14 mm lenses on 24x36 have.</p>

  17. <p>Hi!<br>

    My Samyang 14mm F/2.8 IF ED MC Aspherical lens has arrived yesterday.<br>

    The mechanical quality is good - I think not as good as that from old manual lenses (or Zeiss ZF), but the same as the Canon EF 50/1.4. And much better than the Canon EF 50/1.8 II plastic bomber.<br />It fits good on the EOS mount, the last lens did not prorotrude behind the EF mount.<br>

    Image Quality:<br />I photographed with an old EOS 5D. The images are sharp and contrasty - but I have the impression that the edges are only sharp with closer objects, with objects in infinity they seems to be less sharp.<br />Even at 2.8 I could get sharp images - I like the possibility to work with 2.8 at close distances, and to get an blurred background. Bokeh seems to be aceptable for that angle (the blurred light circels are even illuminated, no bright borders).<br />The moustache distrotion is a problem - it is very strong. One of my pictures was sent to PTLens, probably that programm can correct the distortion.<br>

    My pictures are here:<br />http://www.4photos.de/test/Samyang-14mm-2.8.html<br>

    What are your experiences with that lens - or are few only very people in USA bought that lens up to now?</p>

     

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