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rajiv1

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Posts posted by rajiv1

    Mamiya RB67 timed/long exposures

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    when you are doing timed exposure, the vibration you introduce while cocking or rotating the shutter dial lasts for a fraction of a second. This will not be seen on the film because the light available is very little in the first place (that's why you are using long exposure). Don't worry about introducing shake...

    Black and White Filter used on The Canon 10D

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Shoot in Color with your 10D and use channel mixer to create various filter effects. Using Red channel alone is equal to using the red filter. The nice thing about this picture is that you can implement very subtle filter effects and you are not restricted to specific filters that you buy. For examples of such images check out Tony Dummett and Scott Eaton's pictures...

    Quick Shoe needed for Mamiya RB67?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Using a quick release that has the anti-twist locks is a better idea. RB tends to creep when not help absolutely horizontal on the tripod i.e. when you pitch the camera. This has much to do with the weight of the camera. You will have no problem if the camera is absolutely horizontal. Else, investing on a plate with the anti-twist pin is a good idea to minimize the hassle. I guess one could as well modify normal plates to prevent this twist.

    How to Use a Linear Polarizing filter

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Two points. Heard Linear polarisers may couse trouble in metering. May be, your pictures are getting Over exposed. Secondly, you have to turn the ring (obviously) to percieve changes in the color/reflections. And as a rule of thumb, you need to be perpendicular to sun to most darken the sky. Another point to note, When using Ectreme wide angle lenses, you may start seeing various degree of polarising effect across the frame. Try to understand this effect and use the pol with sense.

    Choosing Good SLR

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Shashank:

    </br></br>

    You can do all these things in almost all cameras. My guess you are new to the technical aspects of this field and a sensible suggestion will be to start with a minimum of equipment, get used to the system and after enough exploration, decide on upgrades. Try not to cram your expectations before you have even understood what camera systems are and how they work.</br></br>

     

    Photography, you will learn, is an extremely expensive hobby for equipment enthusiasts and people who have very specialized requirements in mind. A lot is possible (with restrictions) with minimal equipment and you need to practice and work on the camera to understand what is possible and and to what extent. Firstly, ignore your budget and expectations and spend a lot of time reading about what a camera is. Go to a camera shop and talk with the salesperson and get a feel of what is involved. You will learn a lot of jargon associated. Try to understand them by playing around with the different varieties of cameras. You will learn than the equipment required for shooting Nat Geo style Bird Shots is exorbidantly priced and requires extreme amounts of patience and knowledge. At the same time, you will learn that most great images are made with modest cameras.</br></br>

     

    You will also learn that once the camera is purchased, you will have to spend TONS of $$ on film before you get your first decent image. Then you will later see that the type of film used affects the type of images you wish to shoot. Well... search and learn from this site. There is a beginner's section in the 'Learn' menu item somewhere and you will find tons and tons more of information there than I can mention here. Do your research and read a lot. It is important to understand how an image is made (composition, exposure, interpretation) than it is to know what it is made with. Hope you will learn photography the right way and go out and buy yourself a cheap manual camera (fm2, fe, fa) and a cheap lens (50 f/1.8) and shoot 100 rolls before thinking about more equipments.</br></br>

     

    cheers

    50mm 2,5 Macro OR 50mm 1,8 ?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    You would need the f/2.5 only if you want to retain infinity focus and have macro capabilities without removing the lens et al... if you want to do macro with your f/1.8, all you need is to attach extension tubes (or reverse your lens) as appropriate. To get higher masnifications, even with your f/2.5 you will need extension rings... I'd guess, the choice of one or the other is dependant on your budget and personally, for me, the macro lens does not add much value even though I shoot many macro shots... I typically use extensions or reverse the lens fro macro. You need to ask yourself whether you make enough macro pictures to justify the increased cost. if yes, then I'd suggest the 105mm macro which gives you more distance from the subject... just my 2c... PS, check John shaw's book "closeups in nature" to get more ideas... cheers

    how to take apart and clean a nikon 105mm 2.5

    in Nikon

    Posted

    I have a 105 f/2.5 that I bought off a dealer locally. As it turned out, the previous owner had fit a skylight filter which turned out to be very badly scratched. The filter was pretty tight (guess stayed on for an extremely long time) and we tried to take it off... </br></br>To cut a long story short, we managed to remove the filter but not before the lens barrel came off loose. </br></br>Anyway, I do not recommend this at home but it is easy to remove the various components of the 105mm lens and needs you need to be careful while fitting it back (match the aperture linkages properly while putting it back). You will know what I am saying once you open it. Some elements are not screw mount and you need to be careful while removing the different components. I have been successful in fitting it back and have been taking gorgeous pictures with the lens. </br></br>But as recommended by the previous posts, I'd rather you not attempt it unless you are confident of fitting it back again. A little bit of dust on the elements does not affect the images.

    FM3 Metering for Long Exposure

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Hi Niles, Thanks for the response. I intend to learn and in the initial (few dozen /scores) of rolls (and later), I intend to bracket my exposures. I guess that will be a way to learn the issues in metering. </br></br> What I do want to know is that: can Aperture priority mode handle shutter speeds of more that 8 secs? Say an exposure of 30 secs or 1 minute or more? I know it is possible in the Bulb mode but I am still not an expert in Exposure. So, I intend to rely on the camera's metering (with Bracketing).</br>Thanks again

    FM3 Metering for Long Exposure

    in Nikon

    Posted

    I have been contamplating purchase of a FM3A. The object is to

    appreciate photography as a technique and to allow myself enough

    time to think about the picture I am about to take. I have looked

    through enough resources and discussion threads and I still have one

    question unanswered. </br></br>If there is a need for longer than 8

    sec exposure, can the Fm3Ameter properly when in the Apertutre

    Priority mode. I know that the scale (in the viewfinder) shows upto

    only 1 sec and the specs states that the shutter speeds

    are "steplessly" controlled from 1/4000 to 8 sec. Does that mean

    that if the exposure time is (calculated to be) more than 8 sec, the

    camera cannot handle it in the A mode? </br></br>Appreciate any

    responses.

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