adam_hemphill

There is much truth to this. Google "trigger voltage," and it should give you a site that details the process of finding out if your flash is safe (using a multimeter). Canon recommends no more than 6 volts. Personally, I wouldn't go over 12 or so.

You'll need a miniphone-to-H prong cord.

The Stroboframe "Quick Flip" (or something like that) might do the trick, and is pretty cheap.

 

What do you need a bracket for, Jeff?

The sun is round. . .

Set manual mode on the camera with 1/200 and the aperture you want, and leave the flash on E-TTL. The flash and camera body operate (basically) independently.

The key words being "produced to date."

"They might just have. The latest issue of Popular Photography has a review of the new Nikon mount Kodak DCS Pro SLR/n. I think the review is very favorable. I think Kodak has learned a lesson or two."

 

Note that Popular Photography is not an entirely credible source (though I do believe the SLR/n is improved).

 

 

"I disagree with the several comments that trash Sigma, just because it is a Sigma. First of all, it is not confirmed that this body is built by Sigma. Second, even if it is made by Sigma doesn't mean that this body does not live up to Kodak's standard. "

 

Who needs confirmation when you can look at the thing? Nobody would design or build a body so similar to a Sigma unless. . . Well, I won't go there. I'm not so sure about Kodak's "standards," either.

 

 

Just my POV.

I bet the prop weighed as much as she did.

Ew.

 

I think Canon burned some bridges after the DCS560.

 

Who wants to wager on the camera having compatibility problems?

I use D30's daily and have used 520's. Granted, the "camera part" is better on the 520, but its need of extra software and its ridiculous size and weight turn me off.

D30.

You can get a dedicated nicad battery called the NP-E1, but your PB-E2 (the motor drive presumably on your 1v) will work perfectly on the EOS-1 aside from the functions it does not support (everything but AE lock and shutter release, I belive). The booster on the 1nRS isn't removable.

Are you setting 2nd Curtain Sync on the camera or on the flash?

I would get a 1n, 'cause I already have a 3. q ;

 

But really, I would get a 3. It's only downside, as I see it, is its 1/200 flash sync.

 

It has a replaceable (removable, at least) back, as well.

Yes.

There actually is a way to tell through EXIF data. I'm not sure of the exact procedure, but I read about it on SportsShooter.com - Do a search there.

It's probably the adapter. Check to see if the Sigma's center contact even touches that of the adapter.

An excellent start. Experiment, especially since you shoot digital!

I think $2100 sounds like an excellent price. Selling it online would seem easiest to me.

Adorama had them just before Christmas. I got one for my girlfriend.

I, too, would like to know if the MAHA charger will charge this battery, as I want one charger for the packs for my PB-E1 and my PB-E2.

It's sad when you have to pay almost as much for the software as you do the camera.

On bulb mode, the shutter on my EOS-3 will stay open if the battery is removed.

Thank you, Bill. I just got a little frustrated.

Actually, that only applies to Bob.

 

Actual thanks to you other guys for helping in a somewhat serious way to point out that my question is rather silly.

 

I'm still curious, though.