swenson
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Posts posted by swenson
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<p>I bought a WD Elements 1TB for 69.95 mail order with free shipping about six months ago. Works like a charm.</p>
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<p>A good source for usage statistics and trends:</p>
<p>http://www.w3schools.com/browsers/browsers_stats.asp</p>
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<p>What Mikael said. Between my computer, my laptop, the office computer, my girlfriend's computer and my old computer in the basement I tested six different versions of windows and probably 24 different browsers before I went external and starting asking friends and acquaintances to help on their machines. Also, since IE is not the standard and is in fact probably one of the least complaint it's always the last one that I test.</p>
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<p>How many Browsers and OS's have YOU tested it on?</p>
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<p>Is Phil still around?</p>
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<p>25 seconds for flash, 8 for HTML. Given the choice you would pick flash?</p>
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<p>The 1.8 megapixels is not significant. While some might argue the the 8.0 has less noise, because of less density, others would argue that the 50D has better noise reduction software. Both are probably true and the IQ for both of them is so close that you would not be able to tell the difference.</p>
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<p>Wait a minute, i thought that you needed expensive L glass to take good photos.</p>
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<p>I made two in CS3 one for thr photo and one for the thumbs and they work fine. Not sure that I a suggestion that I worked for my specific situation will work for yours when the one you tailored for yourself didn;t. What was the problem with the one you wrote?</p>
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<p>And most definitely create one or more logical partitions for your photos. A separate HD would be even better. </p>
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<p>I use a system very similar to Edward's, but never change the name of the file. the directory describes the derivation, PS for photo shopped, small, thumb, web etc.. The one difference is that i place the originals in a sub-directory, you guessed it, called Originals. Then I promote the "keepers" up to the top directory. the rest flow down from there, generally never more than one level.<br /> <br /> Now as for naming the top directory, if it's a major event say a trip some where I give it a meaningful name NYC-11_09, or France for my trip to Lore valley. If I fortunate enough to return to France lets say Paris I'd rename it to Lore Valley and place both it an Paris under France. the Lore Valley trip was split into the paths Chateau, and Towns. If it's just a walk around the directory is the date.<br /> Having a intelligent directory structure allows me to automate most of the PP. When I return from a vacation I can generally have the results posted to my web site in a few hours. With everything except the last 10-20 minutes selecting the "keepers". All the resizing, sharpening, etc. and HTML code generation done by running actions, scripts or programs. The only code that I do by hand is the 10-20 lines that create the menus drill downs for the categories for the web site, also reflected in the directory structure that I've used for the photos.<br /> <br /> I originally had a naning convention that resembled a fully concatenated key, nn-nnn-nnnn nn was the type, such as sunset, beach , portraits, architecture... nnn was location 1 US next 2 digits various location within us, 2 Carribean the next two digits different Islands, 3 Europe next two countries you get the idea and finally the last four digits sequence numbers. The idea was that the name was also a description of the photo. Selecting all 1* got you sunsets, All 2** all Caribbean all vacations shots, all 1* and 2** all Caribbean sunset. While the system worked reasonably well, it required more time than I really wanted to spend.<br /> Now I just leave the name straight from the camera. Since they are in different directories there's not a problem with duplicates on the PC. When the camera rolls over to a new 10k count I create a new directory in the web site source code directory to avoid duplicate names in the HTML code.<br /> <br /> Cross referencing, let's say sunrise photos form all vacations is done for only the best of the "keepers" on my web site. I just made an Access database where I cross referenced my album collection (yes like in vinyl). It took a very long time for 1200 records. To do that with the thousands and thousands of photos that I have would take forever.<br /> <br /> So, what works best for you is subject to how many images you are trying to manage and what you want to do with them. Questions that only you can answer. Clearly for me a simple, quick and easy interface to my web site was a high priority. So, my work flow is tailored to meet this need.</p>
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<p>I downloaded PictureShark but decided that to make a water effective you had to damage the artistic value of the image so much that it wasn't worth it,</p>
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<p>This is starting to get like the old will carry-on x-ray harm my film.</p>
<p>http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00X2dp?unified_p=1<br /><br />http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00Rj3N<br /><br />http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00RTDt<br /><br />http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00Tk1w</p>
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<p>My wife is an architect and used the 10-22mm with her Rebel all the time. As mentioned there's going to be distortion with just about anything other than a very expensive tilt-shift lens. However, these can easily be corrected with just about any of the post-production tools. Since, by their nature architectural shots rarely involve any movement with a tripod you can shout in extremely low light so the 2/3 thirds stop shouldn't be a big issue. I guess it comes down to weather you feel comfortable with a third party and the $140 difference in price. Neither of us have ever used the Tokina. For what it's worth back in film days I had the $180 Tokina plastic fantastic, 19-35 mm, and she had a very expensive 17-35mm Simga (over $550) that had an extra 1/2 stop and 2mm. We couldn't tell the difference in IQ. What would really be nice would be a 10 or 12 mm EF-S prime.</p>
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<p>Affordable lodging<br>
<br /> Southwest Harbor<br /> Moorings South West<br /> Mansel Cottage (Penthouse)<br /> Harbour Cottage B & B<br /> Acadia Cottages<br /> Harbor View Motel & Cottages<br /> Sewall Motel (Holiday Inn'ish)</p>
<p>Bass Harbor<br /> Bass Harbor Inn</p>
<p>Seal Harbor<br /> Light House Inn</p>
<p>Northeast Harbor<br /> Kimball Terrace Inn (Holiday Inn'ish)</p>
<p>Otter Cove<br /> Otter's Cove B & B</p>
<p>Hulls Cove<br /> The Colony<br /> High Seas Motel<br /> Park Entrance Motel</p>
<p>Salisbury Cove<br /> Bay Meadow Cottages</p>
<p>Seal cove<br /> West of Edan<br /> Seal Cove Farm B & B</p>
<p>Bar Harbor<br /> The Villager<br /> Bar Harbor Motel<br /> Edenbrook Motel<br /> Highbrook Motel<br /> Hanscom Motel<br /> Best Western<br /> Quality Inn<br /> Centarl House<br /> Acadia Hotel<br /> Acadia Pines Motel<br /> Emerys cottages</p>
<p>Campgrounds<br /> Bar Harbor Campground<br /> Smugglers den<br /> Seawall<br /> Blackwoods<br /> Mt. Desert Campground<br /> Somes Sound<br /> Hadley pt.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Off the top of my head<br>
<br /> Any one of bike/hiking trails<br /> Cadillac Peak<br /> BAr Island<br /> Scenic park drive<br /> Sand beach <br /> Thunder Hole<br /> Jordon Pond<br /> Soutwest Harbor<br /> Seal Harbor<br /> Somes Sound<br /> Eagles Crag<br /> pretty much any where except Bar Harbor</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I've bought every piece of equipment I own from B&H. I've checked most of the price against local retailers and generally the savings is about 20%. As other have said a lot of times you can get free shipping. Depending on the size of the order the shipping could be less, equal or more that the sales tax that you save. The bigger the order the more you save. When the shipping is free it's extremely difficult to beat Adorama or B&H's price. He*l, it's difficult to beat their prices with shipping, most shops that do are scammers. Their prices for new usually meet or beat used at the E site auction.</p>
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<p><em>High Line - Lower Manattan (10th Ave & 14th St)</em><br /> <em>There's a park just over the Brooklyn bridge</em><br /> <em>Brooklyn Heights is also nice</em><br /> <em>Sky Line from Jersey City is nice</em><br>
<em></em><em>From Statue of Liberty if it's open </em></p>
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<p>Most of the suggestions here have been for slr/dslr if you have a P&S or smaller<br /> slr/dslr you can use something like this (this was used for Colosseum shot)<br>
This one fits in my shirt pocket</p>
<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/141865-REG/Giottos_QB5081_Mini_Ball_Pod_with.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/141865-REG/Giottos_QB5081_Mini_Ball_Pod_with.html</a><br /><br /></p>
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<p>My wife has one like this (someone else also recommended it)<br>
<br /> <a href="http://www.adorama.com/SLMPV.html">http://www.adorama.com/SLMPV.html</a><br /><br /><br /> I have one like this, which fits in my hip pocket.</p>
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<p>You can also use a biggie of rice as a bean bag. Of all the things in my bag only two have been questioned at the airport. the first was my bag of rice. I actually had to set it up and take a shot at the gate to convince them that it had a photographic use. The second, was a small pen light flashlight. I explained I needed it to see in my bag when I was shooting at night, for example changing lens. For some reason the inspector could not comprehend taking photos at night. Turned it on showed him it was just a standard little flashlight. Took me five minutes to convince him that I could bring it on-board.</p>
<p>Like Andy said a table top tripod out performs a bean bag. So, I'd get it first.</p>
How are small sensor sizes, such as 1/2.7 or 1/1.8 derived?
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted
<p>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format</p>
<p>Has a graphic that shows relative sizes.</p>