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steve_nieslony2

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Posts posted by steve_nieslony2

  1. Try the ViewCamera Store: http://www.viewcamerastore.com/

     

    They used to carry 7x17 and 8x20 neg sleeves... and cutrrently carry 16x20's (per their page). Note the sleeves open on the long edge (20"). Your other option is to contact Print File directly:

    http://www.printfile.com/ You can place a custom order though they will have a minimum. They did a run of 12x20's about a year ago for some of us that shoot that format. Once you get the info you can solicit for other 12x16 shooters, and put together an order.

     

    Steve

  2. While not exclusively Large Format (though many are...), nor desert/landscape, there is an annual workshop shooting at the Gladding McBean factory in Licoln, Ca (east of Sacramento). Gladding McBean is a historic factory producing architectural terracota... everything from pipes to gargoyles to garden pots. This is the longest trunning facility in the US - dating back to the 19th century. it is constantly changing since it is still operational.

     

    Workshops are 2 times per year, 3/13-14 and in October (I don't have the dates handy). You can pay for one day or go to all. Guest instructors have included Gordon Hutchings, Mark Citret, Kerik Kouklis, Ken Templeton.

     

    To see Gene's work at Gladding McBean... clicke here: http://www.groundglassgallery.com/Gene/gkthumb.html

     

    Steve<div>007XhY-16815684.jpg.4cada4e0855caf3080bc7a53c2e7047a.jpg</div>

  3. I guess dead would be one way to describe it... but not as odd as 5x12 (which is a great format for small-ish panormaic contacts). The good news is that the cameras are inexpensive to get... holders are out there (be aware of glass plate hgolders advertised as film holders), and lenses that typically barely worked for 8x10 will give lots of movement with these. A very nice format for smaller contacts... presents very well on a 16x20 matt board (if you like lots of mat board edge). Photowarehouse will cut film and it will be cheaper then commercialy available 8x10 film etc...

     

    Steve<div>0073kk-16123484.thumb.jpg.7281e63e771017ad9f5fea5c6613cb8f.jpg</div>

  4. Ben,

     

    This is the name that PhotoWarehouse has given their private label/Generic film. They will not confirm that it is FP4+, but they do admit that it is 125 speed and it is made in England, and when tested it behaves just like FP4+... I am not one for testing so I can't speak for the curves... the quality seems good, but we should be aware that this probably end cuts from larger rolls of film that cet cut into comercially packaged film. But since I only contact from 8x10 and larger I haven't seen any problems.

     

    You may wish to ask them if you can get a trial pack... they sent me 5 sheets of 8x10 to try. And yes I use it for all my film sizes greater then 5x7 including 7x17 and 12x20.

     

    One thing... they will not ship their film in a usual nested film box, in fact if you do not request that the film be shipped in a box it will show up in an envelope similar to 25 sheet of Ilford paper... request that you get it in a box if this would bother you, or re-pack in your old HP5 and Tri-X boxes.

     

    Cheers!<div>0071CY-16059484.jpg.c31c506b6b8ec2236a1d31b26c65c833.jpg</div>

  5. Todd,

     

    While not in the Bay Area, we here in Sacramento have a great resource for photography. It is called the Sacramento Valley Photographic Arts Center. The web site is http://viewpointgallery.crosswinds.net/ There a re a large number of Large Format photographers within the group, and we do have group photographic outings. We are also very fortunate to have a dedicated Gallery Space (Viewpoint Gallery). Presently we are showing Ansel Adams's Portfolio #5 along with portraits made of Ansel.

     

    You will find that we all work differently... it is fun in a group and I do gout shooting with some of my LF and MF friends... but I also enjoy shooting by myself.

     

    Good Luck!

    Steve<div>006iMp-15604984.thumb.jpg.9d6622029f86a0cfc3cf491acb177e1f.jpg</div>

  6. Ann,

     

    The 210 Angulon is a good choice - they are rare but they do show up on e-bay on occasion. Another option is the 210 f9 Computar. Make sure its the f9 version... it comes in a copal 1 and is very tiny. Covers my 7x17 barely so will work well on 7x11.

     

    If you wish to go wider, the 150mm Schneider Super Symmar XL will cover with plenty of space, is very small for a modern 150mm 8x10 wide angle (vs the Nikkor and Rodenstock versions). I am also sure that a 120SW Nikkor will work since it reportedly covers 8x10 (similar IC).

     

    Steve

  7. Butch,

     

    What Claire suggested above is correct:

     

    1- Turn power off(!)

    2- Pull leader and attach to take-up spool

    3- Hold advance button - then turn power on - release advance button - the film will automatically tighten-up

    4- Attach back to plate - making sure the film covers slip in tight on the mounting plate

    5- Press advance button again and the film will move to the 1st frame

    6- Shoot

     

    I do not use tape to hold the film on the take-up spool - but have found that using spools with an X pattern vs the - (slot) pattern allow you more options to place the spool such the leader is easier to insert in the spool.

     

    Regarding spacing... I had very bad problems with spacing - such that I didn't get a complete frame #4! In speaking with Keith he thought perhaps the screws holding the ears that hold the folder to the plate were a quarter turn to tight. They should be just tight enough to make sure that everything is snug and light tight. I loosened them by one quarter turn and on my exploratory roll the spacing was better (not perfect) - and I got all 4 frames. I still need to develop my next rolls to assure that I got it working 100%.

     

    Steve

  8. Ann,

     

    The suggestions from those above are good ones... primarily to work with a Pt/Pd printer in your area. I am lucky to have participated in one of Kerik Kouklis' workshops (www.kerik.com) and found the tips and tricks were critical.

     

    You asked the question about the durability of the chemistry. The one chem that is time sensitive is the Ferrix Oxalate (sensitizer), but my experience is that the contrast goes away and could noit get whites or blacks... just grays. You should only mix enough for what you plan to use in the next few days. Dry is has a much longer shelf life (months etc...). I also use the PO as developer with contrast agents built in - like suggested above. This allows you to coat with one set of chemistry and adjust contrast with development. This is very convenient and makes the process more effecient.

     

    Steve

     

    ps - congrats on finding a 7x11 - I hope you enjoy it!

  9. I was part of the group from California. The sleeves arrived quickly and fit perfectly. Thank you Michael for getting all of the contacts arranged so that we could place the order.

     

    You may wish to see if any others that missed the first go around might be interested in placing an order.

     

    Steve

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