paul_wilson12

First of all, the Nikon Digest IS independent of Nikon. It was

created by a guy in New Zealand and is lucky if Nikon actually

acknowledges its existance.

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Secondly, in answer to John, the 13 out of 13 or 7 out of 9 figures

are saying that the camera took 9 shots in a given amount of time and

got 7 in focus. The point is that the Nikons didn't take any out of

focus shots in any of the tests whereas the Canons did. Another way

to say this is the the N90s is more accurate but slower than the

Canons. The F5 is both more accurate and faster.

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Don't take the above as me saying Nikon is better than Canon. The

statements are based on the info provided by Paul above.

I don't deny that Del's is an honest business. I just won't pay more

for a used item than I can get it for new at another honest business,

B&H. If getting a cheaper price meant going to Cambridge Camera or

the like, maybe I would though.

Does the EOS 3 really do *TTL* flash up to 1/8000? There are a number

of cameras that will to high speed sync by pulsing the flash, but none

are TTL to my knowledge.

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The X sync for the EOS 3 is 1/200 where it will certainly do TTL.

At the recent Hunt's show in Boston, they were selling the F5 for

$1995. This was a price with a US warranty and is basically a factory

direct price. Generally, the prices at this show are about the same

as B&H grey.

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I find Del's to generally be a ripoff since they often try to sell

used stuff for as much or more than B&H grey.

The problem I have with Canon viewfinders(besides the lack of eye

relief) is the difficulty with manual focusing. The times I've used

them I couldn't tell whether things were really in focus or not. I

think this is due to the fact that Canon screens are brighter than

Nikon's. Not all Nikon screens are the same in this regard either. I

have an easier time manually focusing my F3 than my N90s.

There are some cases where the better body will give you a sharper picture. These cases are when vibration from the body effects the shot(especially when high magnifications is used). A better body will have better dampening for the mirror(and possibly MLU) and a better damped shutter(more important with medium format when the shutters get bigger).

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Finally, better bodies have features which greatly facilitate better pictures. Some of the biggies are spot meters and better finders(100% finders and grid screens are very nice).

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For most shots though, the body won't make a difference.