neil_swanson

I'm interested in where D2HS prices go as I have one I may be selling in a few months. It is

an excellent camera with fantastic image quality. I owned a D2H before the HS and there is a

difference, a real difference even in the RAW file.

 

For an upcoming project (begins this weekend) I bought a D200 last week as I know the

publisher will want a larger file than the D2HS will deliver. Then in Nov. when the D3 arrives

I'll have to sell a 3 month old 2k click D200 or the D2HS. Still not sure which I'll sell. The

D3/300 announcements changes things for sure but I do believe the D2HS quality with very

handy small files that kick butt will always have a place.

Thanks for the answers. Yes I meant zoom into the image for a more critcal view not zoom a

lense. When I do this kind of shooting on a Nikon I also run PhotoMechanic in the backround

also collecting images in a watched folder but I can then see a whole contact sheet or

however I want to view the images. More options there in PM than with the Nikon SW. You'd

be surprised how useful it can be to just make a very fast .3ev change right on the key pad,

or different contrast curve etc. I have the folder watching jpgs while I shoot RAW so these

changes are seen.

I am wondering if the software included with a 5D includes anything for shooting tethered to a computer,

specifically a MacBook Pro. If it is included is any good allowing zooming in, rotating, has a histogram etc.

If the 5D includes no such software what options are there for tethered shooting. I have experience with

Nikon Camera Control and it does all of the above plus of course all camera settings are adjustable from

the Mac. Thanks, Neil

I know. It can't even rotate a vertical image so they are vertical for viewing!! Did I miss

something? I also haven't found a way to look at any other image except the one that just

loaded. Well at least it was free. With Photo Mechanic running in the backround you can see

every image you've shot in several sizes so you have to think of P-Remote as just a way to

get the images in and that is all.

Anyone shooting their K10D tethered? I use a MAC and have the Remote Assistant software. It does work.

I don't really think it is very good.

 

I did a shoot with my Nikon using their tethered control software and the image is bigger and better than I

get from Pentax remote. The Pentax image is small with no way to make it bigger.

I also have Photo Mechanic and it has a live slide show feature that is supposed to show images as they

ingest into a watched folder. I don't seem to have it set right as it doesn't do it. Or it doesn't do what I

thought it is supposed to do. I need to look into that.

 

So is there any other softeware that works with the Pentax for tethered shooting?

 

Thanks

 

Neil

David sorry you feel I took the point of your thread away. I just wanted to add that while I

had read of Carls focus problems and also of others that I had what mught just be a bum

lens. I though my post might prove timely.

 

i did the tests I did to rule out the focus sensor just plain missing my target. Now I hope

the lens was just a bad copy. I really like the view and the size.

 

I also have a Nikon system. I have seen and now know when teh af sensor will be fooled

and miss focus and I'd say that yes the Pentax could do the same thing.

 

I will report back on wether or nor 21 #2 is the same or better than the one I have.

I never let the camera choose a focus point. I have the camera always set to let me put it where I want it. The camera does have 9 cross type focus sensors afterall so the center one isn't the only "good" one like many other cameras. But center sensor or not ISO 100, 5 ft away from a near frame filling texture filled piece of wood in good light and a shutter speed over 1/1000 and the image isn't sharp?

 

I did the same test with a $100 28mm A-SMC MF lens and it is far better than this 21 I have. I hope the exchange lens is better. I need this length and I don't want a zoom to get it.

Only a few moments ago I got a return auth# from B&H for the exchange of my new DA21

for another. It just isn't sharp. I know about the AF problems. I've tried MF'ing the lens

but I just can't focus like I used to plus often what you are focusing on is very small

anyway.

 

I di some tests at 3.2-8 and it was soft (well not biting sharp) until F8. At that point

maybe DOF covered the fault. I need this lens to be as good as possible wide open. I know

it is no ultra super sharp WO lens but it really has to be better than mine sems to be.

 

BTW a Nikon D2 series camera can and will also be fooled by something high in contrast

right near where you want to focus.

 

I may be expecting mroe than the lens can deliver. I am comparing it to the 43,50 and 77.

It isn't close to any of those.

Godfrey, thanks for the answers. All my first tests/trys were with the camera on A, lens on A

and "use apeture ring" set to OFF. In manaul I got the same too bright exposures. Green

button worked as it should but the final exposre was the same as teh A shots.

 

So I was using it as it should be used. The diaphram is fine. Same shot/exposure taken with

a 43 vs the 28A lens is very different. Also weird, if I take shot (or was it a preview shot) and

then go to info instead of it saying 125 @f8 as an example it will say very very low shuter

speeds, like maybe 1/6th? So that is weird but also no way is the image 6 stops off. More

tests today.

I posted a while ago about A vs M lenses for K10D use. I found an SMC-A 28 2.8. Nice little lens, I like the

field of view. I does however overexpose by @1-1.5 stops when used on A or M w/green button. If I set a

little -ex comp. it works fine. Also weird is it doesn't seem to expose this way indoors, just outdoors. I

thought that by going with the a version I wouldn't have the exposure errors I've read about with some

older lenses. I have tried changing the custome setting for "use apeture ring" and the same thing occurs. I

did notice one thing. Operating the diaphram with my finger the diaphram reacts very very slightly slower

than a new 43mm. The difference is so slight I may be imagining it. Any ideas on the exposre or is it just

the way I will have to use it. Thanks

I also saw the post on DP about no P-TTL on the K10D just minutes after posting here. So

the 3702M SCA would allow TTL on a K10D? Just not P-TTL? I could live with that.

Hi all. I have the above flash. I use it on a Canon, an M6ttl Leica and I'd like to use it with the K10d. The

Metz website lists the K100D as the closest camera to a K10D. They list their 3702 as the SCA adapter to

use. Seems the 3702 is the choice for most every Pentax camera. Anyone tried this? Am I gonna smoke

the camera? Thanks

Until I bought the K10D I hadn't handled a Pentax since an H1a in 1970. I am

not up on all the lens variations for sure. If I start looking at the used

manual focus SMC lenses I need to find an SMC-A lens to get an auto stop down

diaphram correct? An SMC-M lens would be a stop down manually shooter and so

would a screw mount right? Thanks

Well I downloaded the PPL CD. I shot some PEF's and had a look. First off PPL is really slow compared to CS2/Bridge. Every change takes ages to show on screen. I then opened the same images in Bridge RAW. I had shot Easter flowers and in ACR they red warnings were on big time. Combination of saturation and exposure brought them into line. The PPL colors were very smooth, natural looking, the ACR had more POP or contrast. I did some at ISO 1600 and in both programs noise was very very minor. So maybe I'll use PPL to open and make minor adjustments and then save them as Tiffs and reopen in CS2. Here's question, if for some reason I saved them as DNG's and opened them in ACR I bet that anything I did in PPL would NOT show up in ACR. It would be as if I hadn't ever had them in PPL in the first place.

Thanks for that link. I'm going to load the software and do some back to back comparisons. If all I do is use PPL3 for TIFF prep before taking it into CS2 for printing then that is fine. I did that alot when I first used NX for my Nikon. Turns out printing from NX is also very good and in some ways better than CS2 for result. But so much of what I do is B&W that I must rely on the Plug-ins I use with CS2 for output, B&W conversion and dare I say it, adding grain with Alien Skin Exposure.

As I said if the PPL3 gives me a cleaner image maybe with less noise or possible better sharpness that is all I ask for. Thanks<div></div>

I am curious. Is anyone using the software that came with the K10D instead of

for instance CS2? I ask because I know from experience that at ISO's over 500

Nikon Capture or NX do a better job with noise/detail and color than CS2. I've

proven it to myself several times and the extra time it takes NX to do its work

is worth it. Now I wonder if the (Silkpix?) that comes with the camera could be

said to do the same for the Pentax files as NX does for Nikon files. I'm not in

anyway dissatisfied with my K10D images. What I don't want to do is to load and

learn yet more software if I can help it.<div></div>

Well maybe the poster should chime back in. He says "view the image in B&W", not convert it. He and I want to see our display in B&W while we shoot. I know that I, and I assume he is after the RAW file but has to shoot a jpg also so that display shows a B&W image for evaluation.

 

 

Off the top of my head I can think of several cameras that offer this. 5D, M8, D80? maybe, D-Lux-3 and others. It doesn't look as if the K10D offers this. Maybe in the next firmware change.

Well I have the camera and the IB but I can't find anyplace to set what the original poster wanted, which was to have the rear display actually display in B&W.

 

I tried lowering the saturation all the way, that didn't do it. I'd also like the display to show in B&W all the time too.

Hi all

 

I don't currently shoot a Canon DSLR but may soon (5D). I shoot the other

brand. The question is when you process the Canon RAW files do you find any

advantage to using Canons DPP vs ACR.

 

In the "other " world the Capture and NX software does in some cases, mostly hi

ISO give a better end product. Also some other features are best used before

making a TIFF and going to ACR.

 

So does the same hold true with Canons? ACR crushs N*(&^ns own RAW developers

for speed working far far faster. How does DPP's speed compare to ACR?

 

I know that Bibble/CaptureOne etc are out there but I'm just wondering about

these two right now.

 

I would still use NX for some work on TIFFs as it has some amazing editing

features that work on anyones TIFF and JPG files.

 

Thanks for the answers.

 

Neil

I've used the 30mm Sigma on a Nikon D2 camera for over a year now but I have no Pentax experience with it.

 

It is very good on a Nikon. At F2 it is sharper than a Nikon 35mm F2. At 2.8 it is very good and still better than the 35 Nikon. From there on they are too close to argue about. The is some CA wide open in very very contrasty light but I can't say I've ever compared it to teh 35 Nikon to see if it is better or worse.

 

And of course you have 1.4. At 1.4 it is at least as good as a 35 Nikon, better than a wide open 24mm 2.8 Nikon for sure.

 

I have no idea how it is on a Pentax. I do find the K10D very very intersting with some little DA Pancakes.

 

Neil

 

Neil

I've used teh 30mm Sigma on a Nikon D2 camera for over a year now but I have no Pentax experience with it.

 

It is very good on a Nikon. At F2 it is sharper than a Nikon 35mm F2. At 2.8 it is very good and still better than the 35 Nikon. From there on they are too close to argue about. The is some CA wide open in very very contrasty light but I can't say I've ever compared it to teh 35 Nikon to see if it is better or worse.

 

And of course you have 1.4. At 1.4 it is at least as good as a 35 Nikon, better than a wide open 24mm 2.8 Nikon for sure.

 

I have no idea how it is on a Pentax. I do find the K10D very very intersting with some little DA Pancakes.

 

Neil

 

Neil

OK I had saved a large PSD version. This is a little JPG version. This made a wonderful 18x8ish print with some grit/grain and yet you can read the signs in the backround, on the trash in the lower right corner and it holds alot of detail not masked buy noise removal.

 

The DL3 was zone focused with the wonderful little DOF scale the camera offers. It was ISO 200.<div></div>

I've had a D-Lux-3 for a few months. We all know its strong and weak points.

 

But I've made 18x8? (whatever the 16:9 format prints) size prints native RAW size that are stupidly good. This was at ISO 200, 100 is even better.

 

Noise?grain? We should face it that the new digicam cameras are the new Minox but no Minox would be as good. Sean Reid called them the new format. I call them the new Minox.

 

I, like Mitch would rather see grain/noise than a super smooth worked over image like from say my wifes Canon 450? 540? Very nice image. Very fake looking.

 

As for VF's? Wish the DL3 had one but try this. Just hold the camera up to or against your eye. Shoot. I'm serious. When the lens is wide, maybe prefocused (or the 3 area setting) you can really shoot this way. Yes totally blind no framing just look and shoot. It is steadier than holding it at arms length. It is fine for grab shots and you are a lot less visble than holding a camera at arms length. I have done it a @50mm length with less sucess but with practice it could work.

 

Neil

Just tonight I read in a K10D review that what you are hearing is the SR mechanics moving around. It ws a Pop Photography review from the Berger Bros Camera web site.

I'd like in on this please

 

Neil