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mrivers

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Posts posted by mrivers

  1. Apple iPod worked for me a couple of years ago during a month in Australia. They sell a usb connector that you plug your camera into at night. I had plenty of music loaded as well for the multiple flights.

    There are also portable storage devices with small screens that allow you to delete images on the trip.

  2. Another solution is to use the Catalog feature of Lightroom.

     

    I own a laptop that has Lightroom installed so I can edit in the field or when I am away for several days. I edit, adjust, add keywords, and everything I like to do with my images. When I am home, I select the photos I want to send to my main desktop system, and choose "Export as Catalog..." Make sure you have the send negative option checked, and save. Transfer that folder either to a CD, or wirelessly to your main computer. Within your copy of Lightroom on the main machine, choose "Import from Catalog..." and you are done. The import won't work over the network, you need to have the actual folder on your main system.

  3. Note that there are two Voigtlander 25mm finders. The first version shipped with the 25mm LTM lens has no brightlines. The second has brightlines. I own both, and they are the same field of view, so that the second version is more accurate. That being said, I don't find the viewfinder very accurate at all and use it as a general aiming aid. I use the finder with brightlines with my Leica 24mm Asph on my M7, and as a guide at distance with my Voigtlander 21mm P on my M8.
  4. I have several Canon LTM lenses and they ALL line up slightly to the left towards the finder. This was their design, and I guess it was to help see the aperture through the viewfinder in some Canon cameras. I have a Canon 7, but at my age I can see the f-stops through the finder, but can't read them...
  5. Excellent technique, and I'm sure the B&G appreciate the great candid photos you produced. I take two M bodies, with 24mm and 35mm lenses and find my photos are sufficiently different from the hired pro to add to the coverage, and not compete with the standard wedding shots. I once checked the professionals web page to get an idea of their style, and concentrated on available light B&W candids to present a different take on the event. Great job!
  6. Don't forget the excellent Canon 50mm, f1.4 in LTM. As I also have a Summicron M, I use the Canon exclusively for low light at 1.4 and am always happy with the results. I originally bought the Canon 50mm for use with an M3, but now works well on an M6TTL 0.85.

    Another lens that you could consider is the C/V 40mm 1.4.

  7. Timbuk2 small courier bag with Tenba insert. Holds 24,35,50 and two bodies with film and flash in the three spaces. Zip pocket inside for passport, travel papers. Small zip on the outside for iPod. Book and a magazine next to the insert and I am ready for weeks of travel.
  8. One additional point is that for A3+, I have best results with 35mm Sensia (cheap Astia?). I have also tried the Reala to BW route, but with my Minolta 5400 scanner and VueScan, I get funny un-film like grain. For large prints, the slide film to BW look nicer to me. OTOH Reala 120 is my favorite film in medium format, but I don't enlarge as much, and I get commercial scans. Go figure...
  9. There was a lot of fun had by all when it was discovered that M lenses worked as macro lenses on 35mm bodies. Tape and cardboard held the lenses to the body at first, and I believe that Steven Gandy at Cameraquest actually made an adaptor for EOS bodies. I took some ultra-closeups with my 90mm M taped to my EOS 20D that were a hoot. I don't see why the same wouldn't work with medium format, although I would try your 135 M lens first...
  10. Astia is the lowest contrast version of the three. I have used Sensia as well which some say is an amateur version of the pro-version Astia. Both Astia and Sensia scan on my Minolta 5400 with Vuescan nicely, and I have a much harder time with Provia. I find I can always add contrast to a flat Sensia negative, but I have been burned with lack of shadow details with Provia, especially on bright sunny summer days. I save Velvia for cloudy days with flat light, when I'm shooting landscapes, as the greens really glow.

    I have also had good sucess converting Sensia to B/W in Photoshop, or Lightroom.

  11. I used my Lux 35 Asph non-stop for several months in a row once, and had the focus ring seize as you describe. When evaluated by Leica, there was a small screw that had loosened which needed to be reseated. I haven't had any problems since, but would caution trying to force the focussing ring.
  12. I have a Hexar RF and it performs well, but it is a tool with very specific advantages.

     

    I never use lenses longer than 50mm, because it is most similar to a 0.58 viewfinder Leica, not a 0.72. I sold my 0.58 because I grabbed the Hexar first when I wanted one camera and lens. I have had great results with my 28mm, or 35mm lens on this camera. As mentioned, in a pinch I also place a 24mm with out finder, or a 50mm lens on, but lower mag viewfinders don't focus as crisply as higher mag for longer lenses. I have a 0.72 M7, and 0.85 M6, and prefer those bodies to use 50, 75, 90, or 135mm optics.

     

    OTOH, with a 28 mm or 35 mm this is a great body with more information in the viewfinder than my M7, and as I am Left eyed, very comfortable to use when I sketch a scene looking for the right framing, or waiting for the right moment. BTW, I have a Rapidwinder for my M7, and it isn't the same as a built-in winder.

     

    Compared to a Leica M7 0.58, the Hexar is quicker to shoot, gives more information, has the same focusing issues with longer lenses, and quicker to load. I like mine very much.

  13. I use a 24mm lens routinely, and I have found that a 0.58 finder (or a Hexar RF) can frame a 24mm lens by using the outside edges. I have owned both of these bodies, and this type of framing works as well as the 50mm framelines works with my Summicron. There are two problems with this approach, however, and I also use a 24mm finder at all times.

     

    The first problem is that I like to see around the framelines when I am composing. If I have a 35mm, or even a 28mm lens on my Hexar RF, there is enough space around the framelines to help me judge the best composition. The second is that there is no appreciation for perspective through the rangefinder. An external finder does a much better job of helping me judge the relationship between the foreground and background. As an example, the 24mm lens has huge DOF in the daylight, so one technique to separate the foreground from the background is to minify the background by geting close to the foreground object. I can't appreciate that in the rangefinder window, but it is quite visible in the external viewfinder.

     

    The 24mm Elmarit is a wonderful lens, and my 25mm C/V viewfinder always helps me visualize. BTW, since I always use the external viewfinder, my favorite body for the 24 is my 0.85. I travel with a 24,35,90 combo, and the 35 stays welded to the 0.72. I can switch the 24 and 90 on the 0.85. The Hexar RF sits most days, currently.

  14. Sensia is supposedly the consumer version of Astia, and I use that primarily. I shot 40 rolls in contrasty Australia a couple of years ago, and made wonderful scans with my Minolta 5400, Vuescan, and printed on a Canon 9900. The Provia I shot on the same trip were hell to work with in Photoshop.

    These scans also convert to B/W with very nice tonality. I shot in Paris last fall, and the shadow detail on cloudy days was creamy.

    E6 is also easier to sort through compared to C41 stock.<div>00G55u-29474484.jpg.eadd41120dcae49eb9717b22563a09bc.jpg</div>

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