jonpaulgallery

<p>For what it's worth, it all depends on the context. I find the look of the film drastically different…less sharp, more clear. I find it more pleasing to my eye. Your desired print size makes a difference as well. I find 30" prints small. The film works for my specific needs, 30x40, 40x50, etc. I like the process of working with large format, and I feel the print quality and qualities are vastly superior…for me. Digital is cost free when shooting and prints small images beautifully, depending on what you look for in a print.<br>

Best of luck!<br>

Jon<br />www.jonpaulgallery.com<br />www.laketahoephotoworkshops.com</p>

<p>Left out an important issue; the KB Canham cameras have a very unique bellows that allows for a huge range of focal lengths without changing bellows or using recessed boards...something like 45mm to 500mm on the standard bellows.</p>

<p>I have been using the KB Canham metal field cameras for years: 4x5 and 5x7 with 4x5 and 6x17 backs. They are light, foldable, and have very good movements. Basically a cross between a field camera and a monorail. Some say they don't feel rigid, but I shoot landscapes in some extreme conditions and have had no troubles. I just shield the camera from wind when ready to shoot. Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I am heading to the Grand canyon for a few days...Tonight. Forecast shows possible thunderstorms through Tuesday:)<br />I am waffling between North and South Rims. Althought the North Rim is quieter, am I correct that the more signature open vistas can be found on the South Rim? I am shooting 8x10 and 4x10 pano and hope for a dramatic grand vista. I may be willing to deal with some crowds (attitude adjustment) for the right shot with the possible weather.<br>

Also, I am driving from northern California (Tahoe). Even though the distance is greater, it appears that the South Rim is a bit shorter drive relative to time. Input?<br>

Finally, I assume it will be hard to find camping in the busy season. Any input? Close forest land to free camp?<br />Finally, suggestions for specific favorite vistas? I have some research done, so I'm not flying blind. I just like to have more personalinput from the photo crowd.<br>

Thanks!<br />Jon</p>

 

<p>It would help if the people (pros) doing the equipment reviews would state what they think the lens is best for, and not so strong for. A top level pro hoping to have 1/2 page magazine prints done from a travel assignment may be fine with a wide range zoom/kit lens that is light and cheap. An amateur that wants to print nice 16x20's may need the fast, sharp prime. Budget matters to some, not to others. When I teach people proper technique for shooting (tripod, mirror lock up, cable release, etc.), their $8,000 body and $2,500 lens aren't worthless anymore. All the variables need to be counted in, of course. But, if equipment was evaluated for specific uses, it would give consumera a good starting point. I also agree that most of this focus on technology and quality equipment is lost on poor images which are composed poorly, exposed poorly and taken at the wrong time of day in poor light. <br />To start, people need to be given the right information relative to what the equipment is specifically designed to accomplish.<br />Personally, I can't wait for my 8x10 film camera to arrive. The limiting factor in sharpness will be my potential errors in technique.</p>

<p>Has anyone been to the antelope valley poppy preserve in the last or two?<br />Should I make an impromptu drive tomorrow (7 hours)? Is the weather down there <br />expected to hold for poppy conditions this week?<br>

Thanks,<br />Jon</p>

<p>I am going to be staying in Moab Utah in a couple of weeks and would like to travel down to Cedar Mesa area and photograph Firehouse/House on Fire Ruin. If anyone has detaied driving and hiking directions, I would appreciate that very much.<br>

Regards,<br />Jon</p>

<p>Thanks Guys.<br />I definitely approach things differently. I want to teach what people want to learn (after all, they are paying me). Also, it is too easy to try to do what others are doing, or what they believe is right or wrong. No personal style or vision is created there. It is good to see what and how others do things, but then form our own vision and belief in what we see is right. I can't wait to see how this continues.<br>

Regards,<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Has anyone been to (and can share photographs of) Havasupai Falls since the flooding? I am thinking of going this April, but don't want to have an unproductive trip. If it is a mess with no travertine pools, I will go elsewhere.<br>

Thanks very much,<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Thanks guys.<br />I ordered a new cartridge and suspect this will solve the problem. If not, I will let you know what happens, how it is solved, etc. for future reference.</p>

<p>I am a professional landscape and nature photographer putting together some tutorials and I would love some input from various perspectives (not just my view).<br>

If anyone would share the photo tips that most helped them advance and learn in their pusuit of photography technique, I would love to hear about them. Whether these are the basics that we all know, or an interesting different hint or tip, I would love to get a feel for how others have learned and what they feel are helpful. I value the fact that the people I help all see differently than I do in some way.<br>

Thanks for your input!<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Ben,<br />it appears that the full maint. cartridge message is causing things to stop. Perhaps it is their way of making sure I spend money on a new cartridge as opposed to just replacing the absorbent pad? There were no issues before this. Printing was fine. Any ideas? Should I try unplugging?<br>

Thanks,<br />Jon</p>

<p>The maintenance cartridge on my epson 3800 printer is full. It will take a few days to get a new cartridge delivered and I need to print ASAP. I found a video showing how to reset the printer after I have changed the absorbent pad in the maintenance cartridge. However, I can't get the ink door to open in order to reset. Anyone know how I can work around this? I just need to do one print. Help!<br>

Thanks,<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Brian- I am shooting primarily Fuji Provia 100 with a bit of Velvia 50.<br>

Dan- I know it is limiting, but I think they make what I need...for now.<br>

Thanks for everyone's input. I look forward to more.<br>

Jon</p>

<p>In a pinch, you can simply (gently) shove something under the bellows to hold it up. A hat, gloves, etc. A piece of fowm cut for the job also works.</p>

<p>I currently shoot both 4x5 and 2 1/4 x 6 3/4, both using a 5x7 bellows camera. I am considering going to a larger format (I like to print very large...going to 6x8 feet soon). <br />My question is:<br />Is 5x7 a noticeable enough jump from 4x5? I am inclined to go to 8x10, but I don't have a very large budget right now for equipment. I already own the 5x7, and simply need a couple of film holders. This question is focussed on print quality in very large sizes with a close viewing distance (my taste). Please assume I am using proper capture/focus techniques and am having quality drum scans done with an excellent printer. This is all about size.<br>

THanks!<br />Jon<br>

<a href="http://www.jonpaulgallery.com">www.jonpaulgallery.com</a></p>

<p>Thanks everyone. I will keep researching. I am simply a stickler for print quality in very large sizes (I will be doing some 6 x 8 foot prints soon). If I can find 400 ASA transparency film, I will beable to push it 1-2 stops with greater end results for my purpose. I also shoot 6x17 cm, which has more availablity for film choice.<br>

Can you give a good starting point for exposure given say 400 speed film, 5.6 aperture? I will adjust as I can relative to pushing film, etc. This will at least give a starting point for needed exposure to start with.<br>

Thanks!<br />Jon</p>

<p>I would like to photograph the aurora with my 4x5. Given the smaller apertures of large format lenses, is there a higher speed color film available that anyone can recommend? do any of you have experience with this? Any input is appreciated.<br>

Thanks!<br />Jon</p>

<p>Sorry guys,<br />I did an incident reading with the Sekonic meter ( It is the newest version).<br />The D300 is using a wider matrix metering. <br />I wanted to see how my judgement of a neutral reading with the Sekonic compared to the matrix metering. I used the sekonic 1% spot on what I perceive as neutral grey, as well as on white (then factoring compensation), as well as on a grey card.<br />The neutral readings were about 2 stops off of the matrix metering.<br />Hope this is specific enough to fill in the gaps.<br>

Thanks again,<br />Jon</p>

<p>Bill,<br>

no filters,<br />both reflected light (however, I also did an ambient reading with the Sekonic,<br />same ISO (or appropriate compensation used)<br>

THanks</p>

<p>Hi Guys,<br />I thought I would try metering with my wildlife camera (Nikon D300) while using my 4x5, along with my Sekonic spot meter. i am getting a difference of about 2 stops. Has anyone had the same issue? Input?<br>

Thanks,<br />Jon</p>

<p>I am heading to the Tetons, and possibly Yellowstone, next week. It will be a 10-12 day trip, solo, for photography. I know of the obvious places. A few specifics might help, especially if anyone has been there in the last week or so:<br />I would love a good spot to shoot foliage, excluding mountais. Is there a good area that has strong aspen groves, perhaps including red foliage?<br />Moose photos...Any insight into where the bulls may be in the next two weeks?<br />Bull Elk...best places in the Tetons at this specific time?<br />Wolves...I heard rumor that a small splinter pack had denned up near civilization in Yellowstone last year. Might they still be there and more easily photographed than the other elusive packs?<br />I am shooting large format for landscapes and digital SLR with good reach for wildlife.<br />Any input and specifics would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks!<br />Jon</p>

<p>I am a still photographer that has never used video. I hope to produce video clips for the web primarily, but would like to be able to produce quality instructional dvd's and display video clips on a relatively large screen for presentation / instruction to small groups.<br>

Can you share with me the minimum requirements, as budget (to start) is an issue, relative to technical specs. Also, which specific devices should I begin researching?<br>

Thanks for the input!<br>

Jon</p>

<p>I would love input from people who have experience with the D3, D700 and even the D3x.<br />I shoot wildlife with a D300. I like the crop factor for reaching out to animals. However, I do <br />have some noise issues. I like to do large gallery prints (prefer at least 32x48). I know most people don't do this, so I am hoping for experienced input, not technical gueses please.<br>

I am thinking that the D700 and D3 will give much less noise...thus I can shoot a little higher iso and get sharper images. I just wonder how sharp relative to showing detail in large prints. Also, do the smaller pixels of the D3x truly allow for sharper larger images? I will first look at whcih camera will be best for me, then I will deal with my budget issues.<br>

I know about the extra details of using a tripod, turning off VR, etc. to maximize quality with technique.<br>

I also hope to shoot some landscapes with the camera in travel situations where my view camera can't be used.<br>

I appreciate any input from those that have evaluated these issues.<br>

THanks!<br>

Jon</p>

<p>Laurie,<br>

thanks so much for sending the link. It gives me the motivation to pursue my photo trip ASAP.<br>

Jon</p>