gary_voth3

Allen, your questions were fine. As I read it, you made an observation that the camera felt heavy to you. It was NOT a request for someone to tell you the weight of the camera in grams... I don't really get the reason for the other guy's rants.

Many backs will work with mechanical Hasselblads, with varying degrees of simplicity. There is no difference between the 503CW and 501CM if you leave out use of the winder. Some backs will sync using the lens' PC socket, allowing release directly from the camera rather than through a cable release.

 

The benefit of the 503CW comes if you are using the winder. Some backs, notably the Imacon Ixpress backs, can plug into the release socket on the underside of the winder, making a very nice, electronically integrated unit. It's a shame that all back manufacturers don't follow this protocol for this particular camera.

 

Hasselblad maintains a compatibility chart for its cameras and popular backs. You can find it at:

http://www.hasselbladusa.com/Archive/documents/TableHTML/digi_chart_&w=1510x600.html

The H1 is the best option going. It's got nearly the handling/ergonomics of a 35mm AF system with the benefits of leaf shutter lenses. It's also an excellent platform for digital backs. Unfortunately, its out of your stated price range by a long shot.

 

The 500-series 'Blad's are solid workhorse machines. Ellis is right that newer backs can sync easily with the right gear without goofy cable releases. The Imacon backs can plug into the electronic release socket at the base of the Winder CW for the 503. This method is slicker and more integrated than lens sync--it's criminal that all backs aren't designed this way. And of course, the 553 bodies are fine.

 

However, handling and working with these cameras is substantially different than what you are used to with 35mm digital. Focus throw is much longer and therefore slower, there is no lens coupling to the meter prism, and you must remember to transfer settings from one lens to another when changing lenses, and the mirror is not an instant-return type. Also, the mechanical nature of all interfaces can lead to oddball problems like losing a frame when ataching an unwound back to a wound body, etc.

 

This is all second nature to longtime Hassy users, but coming from 35mm you may find the system is awkward at first. I suggest trying it before buying. Hassy rentals are plentiful.

Nevermind, I found the Netscape browser archive:

http://sillydog.webhanger.com/narchive/fulldata.html

 

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I'll experiment with this and see what I can do.

Re. the browser issue: the page renders perfectly on my system using

Netscape 6.2.2. I don't, unfortunatley, have any older versions of

Netscape to try it with. (Anyone know where I can find an install

point for an older Netscape version?)

 

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FWIW, techically the page uses fairly standard table and cascading

style sheet tags that are *supposed* to be compatible with all

version 4 and later browsers... It's built with FrontPage, but I've

looked at the native HTML, and it looks okay to me. (I would like to

fix it though.)

Jay wrote: "Steven, as someone who recently switched from Nikon AF

to EOS, I now understand why former Canon users find the R8 so

refreshing. I never needed to carry the manual for my F5, but with

the EOS 1V I feel like I'm studying for the regional boards again.

The R8 has a lot of faults but confusing controls aren't one of

them."

 

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Jay, I know this is a thread on the R8 but EOS ergonomics will grow

on you. There is a learning curve coming from other systems, but the

logical placement of controls for use *while your eye is at the

viewfinder*, and the ability to tune the camera to your spec via

personal and custom functions is really quite unique...

M3s still have the best viewfinder for use with 50mm or longer

lenses, IMHO (I use one myself.) However, film loading is fussier,

there is no meter, and they require $$$ modification to work with a

motor or Rapidwinder.

 

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M3s incorporated a number of modifications over the years. If you

intend it as a shooter, you want a later model with single stroke

film advance and a frame selector lever. (I'm sure someone else on

the forum can tell you how this one is configured based on the

serial number.) It's also possible to obtain various doo dads to

speed up film rewind and loading.

 

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More info at Stephen Gandy's site here:

http://www.cameraquest.com/mguide.htm