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garnet_cook1

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Posts posted by garnet_cook1

  1. Howard, I found in making a decision about a lens you must consider

    the following factors. (1) Main application .......(2) Minimum

    focussing required .......(3) Weight of zoom ....... (4) Speed of

    lens (rather, amount of available light).

    With my selection I was strongly guided by this forum. (ref "Older

    Messages - EOS lenses - Birds & Lizards). I found the biggest factor

    in my case was weight, followed by "Min Focussing Distance".

  2. Kurt and Lanier, thank you both for your response. You both

    mentioned the 300/4(IS) and Lanier mentioned min focussing distance

    and made me aware of the importance of this feature when

    photographing lizards. [i recall being too close on several

    occasions]. However, this 300/4(IS) is out of my budget, hence, not

    on the "shopping list". All lenses mentioned were similar price in

    Australia (taking note that some/most,that I have selected, are

    second hand).

    Considering this selection, after some deep thought, I do beleive, my

    main reason for wanting this lens is to catch those unexpected shots

    that are usually missed through set-up time. So it comes down to

    convenience and that relates to WEIGHT! This means my decision is

    down to the 200/2.8 and the new 70-200/4, which are both less than

    800 grams. Now, with the criteria that extention tube(s) and/or

    Close-up lens may be required [i've never used either], I choose to

    select a prime lens as opposed to a zoom.

    Truely, I have never had an f2.8 lens and I am looking forward to

    having plenty of light in my view-finder. So my selection (with a lot

    of help from my friends) is the (second-hand) 200/f2.8L. I still have

    to check out the lens hood........Thanks again

  3. Canon EF USM 'L' lenses. I would be pleased if I could seek your assistance, to help me decide on the purchase of one of the following lenses:....... 1) 200mm- f2.8 (second-hand),....... 2)70-200mm- f4 (new),....... 3) 300mm- f4 (second-hand)....... 4) 70-200mm- f2.8 (second-hand). My main subjects are birds and lizards. Not for use at extra-long range (I have a tripod and a 600 glass for that). The camera is Canon EOS-5 and Manfrotto monopod. The 70-200mm -f2.8 is probably the heaviest lens I would consider (around 1,310 grams). I have a 1.4 X extender that I will want to use occasionally. At this time I am favouring the 200mm-f2.8 lens. Oh! I do like to use a "fill"-flash when close enough. ............. Thank you.
  4. i agree with the response thus far. The most significant difference

    in my opinion is the weight. If you want to travel light and use a

    monopod, the f4.0 L is the lens (I am just in the throws of deciding

    which lens I should buy). The f4.0 "L" weighs only 710 grams as

    opposed to the f2.8 "L", which weighs in at 1310 grams. However, I

    note you mentioned tripod, hence, weight might not be a big factor

    for you to consider.........Regards.

  5. Subbu, have a look at -

    http://bobatkins.photo.net/info/faq30/closeup2.htm

    This is a pretty comprehensive paper (8 x A4 pages)of Q&A's relating

    to your subject. Answers were by Chuck Westfall (Canon USA - approx

    1996).

    The 250D has a maximum working distance of 250 millimeters (where

    working distance is the nominal distance between the front of the

    lens and the subject). Hence, is much stronger than the 500D close-up

    lens, which has a working distance of 500 mm

    I think that the E -3 diopter can only be the "E" eye-cup dioptric

    viewfinder, which short-sighted guys, like me, would use. Not

    necessarily for macro work.............Regards

  6. As a avid reader of photographic forums and FAQ's, I would be pleased if anyone from this forum could tell me why the EOS mail List archives- Helsinki are no longer being updated.

    I enjoy a balance of all available information.

    Regards.

  7. Jim (and others), I have searched EOS5/2A/E User Guides (both Hove

    and Magic Lantern) and cannot find any info regarding the above "over-

    ride" - Have I got it right? <The AF assist (aux light emitter) on

    the A2 camera, was designed to over-ride any AF assist (aux light

    emitter) from the flash, namely, 430/530EZ>

    My suggestion to J Viray was going to be - Add a hot-shoe adaptor to

    lift the flash emitter a few centimeters and solve the problem

    physically. However, this would be useless if the flash emitter is

    disabled.

    QUESTIONS>>>...... Is this permanent over-ride on the EOS 5 as

    well?......Does this over-ride condition remain, when Eye Control AF

    is "off"?......Does this over-ride condition remain when Eye contol

    is "off" and focus is utilising (locked) centre position. ----

    Regards.

  8. At the risk of sounding like I'm under estimating your problem, are

    you saying that when you use the 70-200L lens, that the flash in some

    way finds this as an obstruction. I can appreciate that an internal

    flash would, but not a 430EZ or a 540EZ. Could you expand or

    simplify your problem.....Regards

  9. T90 Eyecup- Totally agree with Terry (above posting). I was a little

    premature when I said the EOS-1n was a "perfect fit". It does

    appear, when viewed from below the eyecup, that one of the plastic

    retaining prongs are skew and hence under stress. The corrective

    action may be to fold back the eyecup rubber (which is glued into

    position) and carefully file away plastics frame where it rubs on the

    viewfinder shutter lever. Or alternatively, file the bulge off the

    lever. About 1mm is required to relieve the situation. I will, in

    the future, look a little more closely, before declaring "problem

    solved!" .........Apologies,....Garnet.

  10. Having waited a while for the answer to my question, I though I would

    look through this site and others to find the address of a expert

    person who knows serial numbers and models of FD cameras. He replied

    today: (in brief)

     

    <p>

     

    "Initially, there was only one AE-P brochure issued by Canon,

    although several revisions to the brochure followed, the black (and

    the silver) appeared in this first issue. It must be assumed that

    the black model option was there from the start. Hope this helps....

    Regards Joe Arnold"

     

    <p>

     

    Thanks Joe. Regards to readers....Garnet

  11. Eyecup T90 - Maybe, that little viewfinder blind lever, will cause a

    problem. My objective, in ensuring the EOS-1n eyecup is a perfect

    fit on the T90, is to go to the next stage of purchasing a Dioptric

    Adjusting Lens (-2 dioptre), if it fits. I would presume the fit

    would be the same as the eyecup mount. I hate manually focussing

    with glasses. I will pursue this through another question.

    Regards.....Garnet

  12. Thank you John and Kurt for establishing that the camera program does

    not recognise that an IS lens is attached. My difficulty is

    comprehending how any program, that has calculated the amount of

    light into the system, can adjust for two or more stops, without

    utilising "exposure compensation". As I understand, the most

    important feature of the IS lens is allow you to use a slow shutter

    speed that would normally be prohibitive because of camera shake.

    This lower Tv would allow the use of finer grain film, hence, better

    images.

    At this time, The way that I would achieve this, leaving DOF out

    of the equation for the moment, is to load film (=< ISO100), switch

    to P-mode. [incidently, IMHO, Tv and Av priority use the same program

    as the P-mode, its just that one or the other is locked. The

    adjusting of Tv or Av may be achieved in P-mode by moving the main

    control wheel to the right or left]. I would then focus etc. and

    read my Av and Tv. From the Av reading I would adjust so that it

    reads approx two stops larger. I would note the Tv, which should be

    slower and fire. Am I on the right track?

    Do you see the day where they will have the control dial reading both

    "P" and "P(IS)". Regards.....Garnet.

  13. Terry, Ref your last posting. Indeed, the T90 was fitted with an

    eyecup (Possibly in some countries only). The T90 brochure, at

    http://garycoombs.com/Photography.htm, clearly shows the eyecup. Of

    more interest to me, is what you did not like about the EOS-1n eyecup

    fit to the T90. I found (and reported to David) that it fitted

    perfectly. Was it too loose? too big physically, too small?.... and

    what would you modify? Applying your finger tip to the viewfinder

    blind lever is difficult and I did notice initially, that it was

    extremely difficult to remove the eyecup from EOS-1n. For me it was

    the perfect solution. Regards.....Garnet

  14. David, I have been looking to buy a T90 and have examined several.

    What I have noticed is that the ones that are for sale are usually

    missing the eyecap. Yesterday, I actually asked the salesperson to

    try the EOS-1n eyecap on the T90. As Terry suggested in the last

    posting, it fits perfectly and won't fall off. Also, you can still

    manage to get to the T90 small shutter blind lever. Please consider

    that your T90 eyecap solution now tried. Regards.....Garnet

  15. Using a 28-135mm IS lens with my EOS 5 (hand held), as a new user I always use "P" mode. What possible benefit could I expect to attain, other than minimal camera shake? Does the camera's program know that it is an IS lens and hence alter the "Tv" to suit? Or should I always use a slower film?

    Regards Garnet.

  16. Geoff, I don't have documentary evidence but based on a Canon history

    investigation I'm doing as a hobby, I beleive the 299T must be the

    dedicated Speedlite for the T80 (first auto focus Canon model) this

    camera came out in 1985. My logic is (1983)T50---- dedicated 244T.

    (1984)T70---- dedicated 277T. (1986) T90----dedicated 300TL. The

    suffix "T" also indicates the speedlite is made for the T series

    rather than the "A" or EOS family. Regards Garnet

  17. I am confused as to what year the AE-1 Program "Black Body" appeared on the scene. My investigations reveal that the AE-1 was first introduced (silver body) in 1976. Then came the A-1 (black body) in 1978. Then, the AE-1 Program in 1981, this had a silver body. When did the AE-1 program coime out with a black body? Regards Garnet.
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