garnet_cook1
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Posts posted by garnet_cook1
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Kurt and Lanier, thank you both for your response. You both
mentioned the 300/4(IS) and Lanier mentioned min focussing distance
and made me aware of the importance of this feature when
photographing lizards. [i recall being too close on several
occasions]. However, this 300/4(IS) is out of my budget, hence, not
on the "shopping list". All lenses mentioned were similar price in
Australia (taking note that some/most,that I have selected, are
second hand).
Considering this selection, after some deep thought, I do beleive, my
main reason for wanting this lens is to catch those unexpected shots
that are usually missed through set-up time. So it comes down to
convenience and that relates to WEIGHT! This means my decision is
down to the 200/2.8 and the new 70-200/4, which are both less than
800 grams. Now, with the criteria that extention tube(s) and/or
Close-up lens may be required [i've never used either], I choose to
select a prime lens as opposed to a zoom.
Truely, I have never had an f2.8 lens and I am looking forward to
having plenty of light in my view-finder. So my selection (with a lot
of help from my friends) is the (second-hand) 200/f2.8L. I still have
to check out the lens hood........Thanks again
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Canon EF USM 'L' lenses. I would be pleased if I could seek your assistance, to help me decide on the purchase of one of the following lenses:....... 1) 200mm- f2.8 (second-hand),....... 2)70-200mm- f4 (new),....... 3) 300mm- f4 (second-hand)....... 4) 70-200mm- f2.8 (second-hand). My main subjects are birds and lizards. Not for use at extra-long range (I have a tripod and a 600 glass for that). The camera is Canon EOS-5 and Manfrotto monopod. The 70-200mm -f2.8 is probably the heaviest lens I would consider (around 1,310 grams). I have a 1.4 X extender that I will want to use occasionally. At this time I am favouring the 200mm-f2.8 lens. Oh! I do like to use a "fill"-flash when close enough. ............. Thank you.
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i agree with the response thus far. The most significant difference
in my opinion is the weight. If you want to travel light and use a
monopod, the f4.0 L is the lens (I am just in the throws of deciding
which lens I should buy). The f4.0 "L" weighs only 710 grams as
opposed to the f2.8 "L", which weighs in at 1310 grams. However, I
note you mentioned tripod, hence, weight might not be a big factor
for you to consider.........Regards.
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Subbu, have a look at -
http://bobatkins.photo.net/info/faq30/closeup2.htm
This is a pretty comprehensive paper (8 x A4 pages)of Q&A's relating
to your subject. Answers were by Chuck Westfall (Canon USA - approx
1996).
The 250D has a maximum working distance of 250 millimeters (where
working distance is the nominal distance between the front of the
lens and the subject). Hence, is much stronger than the 500D close-up
lens, which has a working distance of 500 mm
I think that the E -3 diopter can only be the "E" eye-cup dioptric
viewfinder, which short-sighted guys, like me, would use. Not
necessarily for macro work.............Regards
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As a avid reader of photographic forums and FAQ's, I would be pleased if anyone from this forum could tell me why the EOS mail List archives- Helsinki are no longer being updated.
I enjoy a balance of all available information.
Regards.
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I have an FD extender 2X-B. From descripions above, this fits into
the "old type" category (silver ring). However, I thought this "B"
type extender was a later innovation (approx '82). Any clues as to
when the 2X-B came onto the scene.
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Jim (and others), I have searched EOS5/2A/E User Guides (both Hove
and Magic Lantern) and cannot find any info regarding the above "over-
ride" - Have I got it right? <The AF assist (aux light emitter) on
the A2 camera, was designed to over-ride any AF assist (aux light
emitter) from the flash, namely, 430/530EZ>
My suggestion to J Viray was going to be - Add a hot-shoe adaptor to
lift the flash emitter a few centimeters and solve the problem
physically. However, this would be useless if the flash emitter is
disabled.
QUESTIONS>>>...... Is this permanent over-ride on the EOS 5 as
well?......Does this over-ride condition remain, when Eye Control AF
is "off"?......Does this over-ride condition remain when Eye contol
is "off" and focus is utilising (locked) centre position. ----
Regards.
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At the risk of sounding like I'm under estimating your problem, are
you saying that when you use the 70-200L lens, that the flash in some
way finds this as an obstruction. I can appreciate that an internal
flash would, but not a 430EZ or a 540EZ. Could you expand or
simplify your problem.....Regards
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T90 Eyecup- Totally agree with Terry (above posting). I was a little
premature when I said the EOS-1n was a "perfect fit". It does
appear, when viewed from below the eyecup, that one of the plastic
retaining prongs are skew and hence under stress. The corrective
action may be to fold back the eyecup rubber (which is glued into
position) and carefully file away plastics frame where it rubs on the
viewfinder shutter lever. Or alternatively, file the bulge off the
lever. About 1mm is required to relieve the situation. I will, in
the future, look a little more closely, before declaring "problem
solved!" .........Apologies,....Garnet.
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Having waited a while for the answer to my question, I though I would
look through this site and others to find the address of a expert
person who knows serial numbers and models of FD cameras. He replied
today: (in brief)
<p>
"Initially, there was only one AE-P brochure issued by Canon,
although several revisions to the brochure followed, the black (and
the silver) appeared in this first issue. It must be assumed that
the black model option was there from the start. Hope this helps....
Regards Joe Arnold"
<p>
Thanks Joe. Regards to readers....Garnet
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Eyecup T90 - Maybe, that little viewfinder blind lever, will cause a
problem. My objective, in ensuring the EOS-1n eyecup is a perfect
fit on the T90, is to go to the next stage of purchasing a Dioptric
Adjusting Lens (-2 dioptre), if it fits. I would presume the fit
would be the same as the eyecup mount. I hate manually focussing
with glasses. I will pursue this through another question.
Regards.....Garnet
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Thanks again Kurt,"The penny has droped". I understand, well
explained. Regards Garnet.
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Thank you Kurt for your prompt reply. I'll ponder your posting for a
while. Regards.....Garnet
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Thank you John and Kurt for establishing that the camera program does
not recognise that an IS lens is attached. My difficulty is
comprehending how any program, that has calculated the amount of
light into the system, can adjust for two or more stops, without
utilising "exposure compensation". As I understand, the most
important feature of the IS lens is allow you to use a slow shutter
speed that would normally be prohibitive because of camera shake.
This lower Tv would allow the use of finer grain film, hence, better
images.
At this time, The way that I would achieve this, leaving DOF out
of the equation for the moment, is to load film (=< ISO100), switch
to P-mode. [incidently, IMHO, Tv and Av priority use the same program
as the P-mode, its just that one or the other is locked. The
adjusting of Tv or Av may be achieved in P-mode by moving the main
control wheel to the right or left]. I would then focus etc. and
read my Av and Tv. From the Av reading I would adjust so that it
reads approx two stops larger. I would note the Tv, which should be
slower and fire. Am I on the right track?
Do you see the day where they will have the control dial reading both
"P" and "P(IS)". Regards.....Garnet.
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Terry, Ref your last posting. Indeed, the T90 was fitted with an
eyecup (Possibly in some countries only). The T90 brochure, at
http://garycoombs.com/Photography.htm, clearly shows the eyecup. Of
more interest to me, is what you did not like about the EOS-1n eyecup
fit to the T90. I found (and reported to David) that it fitted
perfectly. Was it too loose? too big physically, too small?.... and
what would you modify? Applying your finger tip to the viewfinder
blind lever is difficult and I did notice initially, that it was
extremely difficult to remove the eyecup from EOS-1n. For me it was
the perfect solution. Regards.....Garnet
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David, I have been looking to buy a T90 and have examined several.
What I have noticed is that the ones that are for sale are usually
missing the eyecap. Yesterday, I actually asked the salesperson to
try the EOS-1n eyecap on the T90. As Terry suggested in the last
posting, it fits perfectly and won't fall off. Also, you can still
manage to get to the T90 small shutter blind lever. Please consider
that your T90 eyecap solution now tried. Regards.....Garnet
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Using a 28-135mm IS lens with my EOS 5 (hand held), as a new user I always use "P" mode. What possible benefit could I expect to attain, other than minimal camera shake? Does the camera's program know that it is an IS lens and hence alter the "Tv" to suit? Or should I always use a slower film?
Regards Garnet.
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Geoff, I don't have documentary evidence but based on a Canon history
investigation I'm doing as a hobby, I beleive the 299T must be the
dedicated Speedlite for the T80 (first auto focus Canon model) this
camera came out in 1985. My logic is (1983)T50---- dedicated 244T.
(1984)T70---- dedicated 277T. (1986) T90----dedicated 300TL. The
suffix "T" also indicates the speedlite is made for the T series
rather than the "A" or EOS family. Regards Garnet
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I am confused as to what year the AE-1 Program "Black Body" appeared on the scene. My investigations reveal that the AE-1 was first introduced (silver body) in 1976. Then came the A-1 (black body) in 1978. Then, the AE-1 Program in 1981, this had a silver body. When did the AE-1 program coime out with a black body? Regards Garnet.
canon 70-200 f4L vs 70-200f2.8L
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
Howard, I found in making a decision about a lens you must consider
the following factors. (1) Main application .......(2) Minimum
focussing required .......(3) Weight of zoom ....... (4) Speed of
lens (rather, amount of available light).
With my selection I was strongly guided by this forum. (ref "Older
Messages - EOS lenses - Birds & Lizards). I found the biggest factor
in my case was weight, followed by "Min Focussing Distance".