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william_whitaker1

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Posts posted by william_whitaker1

  1. I have the 600mm Apo-Ronar in the Compound #5 and used it on 14x17 when I was using that format. Coverage was not an issue, but then I don't typically use a lot of movements anyway. It's a nice lens.

     

    ~Will

  2. Is your tolerance of 1/32" (is that plus-or-minus or absolute?) relative to the ANSI standard or is that the tolerance between units (one film holder to the next?) If the difference between film holders can vary by as much as 1/32", then I'd think you'll be in for some frustrations. However, if you can hold the unit-to-unit tolerance tighter so that the difference between the ANSI standard and any filmholder is a known value (e.g., 1/32"), then the difference can be compensated for by a final tweak in the focusing. I've done this when using some modern film holders in an older camera for which the T-dimension was different and it worked fine. It's another step, but easy enough as long as you remember to do it.<P>

     

    If money is an issue (and to keep domestic peace) consider commonly available materials for your holders and also perhaps using paper for negatives - at least to get started. Ultimately if you love the format, you <I>will</I> to get some "real" filmholders.

  3. Ilford has announced that they are taking orders for sheet film, ULF and non-

    stock smaller sizes in FP4+ and HP5+, until March 2, 2007. The official

    announcement may be viewed on APUG at

    <a href=http://tinyurl.com/3ag6ol>this link</a>.

    The linked thread gives the details and a list of resellers through whom to

    order. March 2nd is actually the day which the resellers have to have their

    orders in to the distributor.

  4. Seller's remorse sucks.

     

    Rent, borrow. Does your school not have equipment you can check out to use? Other photographers in your area? Check this forum, largeformatphotography.info and apug.org for folks who congregate on weekends with LF cameras. Your RB's a good tool, esp for the subjects you indicate you like. Don't forsake it for an unknown.

  5. Kodak Master. 4 1/2 inches of front rise, plenty of bellows and intuitive and simple operation. Weight is in the Deardorff category, but consider the number and size of lenses when you pack your hiking kit.<P>

     

    Downside: Original lensboards are hard to find and new ones are expensive. The ones being sold by Michael Smith are excellent, however. They machine well and won't bend like the old ones. What I did was to have a Technika adapter board mounted to a new MS board. Most of my lenses are on Tech boards anyway, so it's a simple and economical solution.<P>

     

    Cheers,<BR>

    Will

  6. I've seen the Velostigmat Series II both as a variable soft focus and as a "straight" anastigmat. If the former, it will have a front ring which can be rotated to vary the diffusion. According to the <a href=http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/wollensakcath/p6.html>1922 Wollensak catalog</a>, the 9 1/2" version was the shortest focal length which offered that feature. Again, however, yours may not have it. Either way, it's a useful lens. But the cost of having it mounted in a shutter would probably increase your investment beyond what a more modern lens of comparable focal length already mounted in a shutter would cost. Check Ebay's past listings along with the usual suppliers for going prices on the used market and compare to the cost of having this one mounted in a shutter.<P>

    Best

  7. I can't speak regarding the Vesta, but by my own experience, the 8 3/4" Verito is a direct fit into an Ilex #4 shutter. Keep in mind that there may have been manufacturing variations which would prevent that. I have not been able to verify it with a second lens; I keep getting out-bid! The Ilex #4 shutter <b>will</b> fit a Technika/Wista board with just a little room to spare.<P>

     

    The 8 3/4" Verito is a great lens for 4x5 or 5x7. And being able to mount it in a shutter on a Technika board makes it even more useful. If I may toot my own horn, see <a href=http://wfwhitaker.com>wfwhitaker.com</a>. There is a link to a page on the 8 3/4" Verito. The home-page photograph was made with that lens.<P>

     

    Regards,

  8. Yes, I am speaking from experience. I never claimed that there was no fall-off; quite the opposite. I stated that the lens does not vignette.

     

    I also never stated that Plaubel claimed that the lens does not exhibit fall-off. Perhaps you should re-read my post.

  9. <I>"You must however make sure the camera comes complete with the 2 stop centre filter as the Super Angulon lens vignettes even unshifted."</I><P>

    That is not true. The lens does not vignette and certainly not while unshifted. All wide angle lenses to some degree exhibit fall-off away from the axis. The center filter is to compensate for that. According to Plaubel, the lens does need to be stopped down to f/16 or smaller to use the full range of the shift.<P>

    The front thread of the lens is 52mm. The Plaubel step-up ring adapts to a 77mm thread. The use of filters smaller than 77mm (or stacking filters) will result in mechanical vignetting. But the lens doesn't vignette.

  10. Simon,<P>

     

    Try the usual auction site suspects. Seth often has one or two at <a href=http://www.cameraeccentric.com/>cameraeccentric.com</a>. For some reason the shorter focal lengths seem to demand a higher price. The lens in any focal length definitely has character.<P>

     

    Andrew said what I was thinking, but was holding back. It's great that Cooke is seeing fit to reintroduce some old designs to a limited market. But you might want to test the waters first with a less expensive alternative until you see for sure which direction you're headed.<P>

     

    Don't forget that the lens is but one element of the overall equation. Lighting is another important consideration.

  11. If the condenser pair you're using with the 184 have the same focal length, have you tried putting the scratched condenser on top to see if it makes any difference? Otherwise, consider the cost of finding a replacement condenser before spending money to have this one repolished. Enlarger prices are at an all-time low. You may be able to find a replacement condenser for less than the cost of repair.

     

    As far as repair goes, depending upon the depth and width of the scratch, the glass may need to be reground before it is repolished. Simply polishing a glass surface with a scratch won't remove the scratch unless it is quite small. If your condenser is scratched to the point that it shows in the print, that suggests that the scratch is more than superficial. The repair can be done, but my best guess is that it would not be cost effective.

  12. Mark,<P>

     

    To echo Jim's comment, the old portrait lenses are quite large and often heavy. They <I>have</I> to be if they're going have a long focal length <I>and</I> be fast. And you've discovered one of the limitations to using a field camera: lens board size. <P>

     

    Two lenses which would work on the Deardorff are the 305mm Kodak Portrait which is, I believe, an f/4.8. It comes in an Ilex #5 which should give you flash sync, too, for your situation. A 14" Wollensak Verito would also fit on a 6" Deardorff board. They're not as heavy as they look, consisting of only three elements. You'd need to front-mount a sync Packard, but it should work.

    <P>

    Old portrait cameras - Agfa, Century and the like - show up occasionally. These are studio cameras with a lens board size typically around 9 inches and a front standard which is a fixed monolith capable of supporting the big lenses. The lenses you're thinking of using do exist, but just wouldn't be a good match for your camera.<P>

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