thomas_nutter

If you've got the money to waste on that hologon thing, then you

should probably buy it. This is not out of personal experience

with the lens, but I do have the voigtlander and it's as close to

perfect as I need.

IMHO, the Domke F803, which I own in Olive Drab, looks much

less appealing to those thieves out there than the M Classics

bag which looks, to me, much more likely to contain something

expensive.

I'm a true beleiver in the assumption that it's the photographer,

but those M lenses are damn sharp anyway.

bender photographic, the same guy who makes those wood

view camera kits, also makes a pinhole camera kit you can build

from wood.

Does any body know if the hood, #12536, for the E49 variety

(Third-generation) 28mm Elmarit-m will fit on the 2nd version

(E48?) of the same lens?

Do you plan on putting the camera on the tripod for use as a

step-ladder? Just curious.

Ilike the shutter at the bottom because it's easier to get my

fingers around front to that pesky focusing tab on the lens.

IMO, a 20 or 21 is usually too wide and often overused, but I have

one anyway.

He what happened to Le Camera so suddenly? Phat Lee was a

good guy, but then suddenly, he ripped off a friend of mine (AND

SURELY OTHERS) and went bankrupt, basically overnight.

This may sound silly, but has anybody ever done a study or

heard anything about whether turning an M6 or M4 one way or

the other for a vertical shot makes a difference in its framing. I'm

not so anal retentive to really worry about it, but I'm just curious

what everyone else thinks. I don't really shoot that many verticals,

because I believe horizontal is the more natural way to view

things, but when I do, I have the camera turned so the shutter

button is towards the ground and resting on my palm. Any input

here?

I think johannes has it backwards, especially with a wide

lens---The back element is much more likey to show scratches

as blurry spots or spots of different contrast on the negative

while scratches on the front, unless the are something like a

GOUGE, may slightly affect the contrast of the lens, but luke, I

don't think the scratches as you described them will be

noticeable unless you're into looking at negs with a microscope.

<p>

My advice would be just to grin and bear it because the more you

wipe that thing with tissue or a cloth or whatever, the more likely

you are to cause more scratches.

I guarantee, as a long-time customer of B&H myself, they will

take the lens back and make it right with you.

You could be REALLY COOL like David Hermmings in Blow Up

and just carry the thing around in a paper bag. Noone would

think you were a photog anyway, just a wino.

I've worked under both kinds of lights and I think they're all about

the same----just keep them at least four feet away from you

materials.

I believe the theory is that at the time of its invention, this method

was the best to insure flatness along the film plane.

Based on this and that other recent thread.........I think you folks

should all defer to the experts in the field.

If you count my M4, which is in semi-retirement, I have four

bodies, but you can only use one at a time, right?

Go to KMART and get yourself some LOCKTITE to make sure.

<p>

You're on your own now, but I reach where you've just been.

GOOD LUCK!

I would buy the one that makes me cringe less at the thought of

dragging it across the top of a chain-link fence or bouncing it

across a stretch of pavement. Get the one you would not be

afraid to take to Coney Island with you on a saturday morning,

Unless you would rather it look good in your living room next to

your collection of one-of-a-kind die-cast metal Ferrari replicas.