scott_soper

FYI, many of the f8 65mm Super Angulons come in 00 shutters, a size now obsolete. For around $40, SK Grimes can supply you with an adapter to fit a regular 0 lensboard (I have three of these SA's with adapters!).

Or place the "exposed" label on the other end of the holder where it doesn't need to be removed.

I'd go with the Epson also: quick, easy, gets the job done!

I just received this lens, and there is small lever near the

aperture scale, along with a scale labeled from zero to ninety.

 

Moving the lever towards zero opens a slot which allows light into

the interior of the lens (between the front and rear elements, and

in front of the diaphragm).

 

I seem to recall hearing that some process lenses have this feature

to allow a certain amount of flare into the lens. Is this for

controlling contrast? Does it have any use on an 8x10 in the field,

or should I just tape it shut?

 

thanks!

Thanks for your replies. It seems I've found the answer:

 

None of my camera lenses take a cap/filter anywhere close to this size. But I happened to walk into the darkroom to use my enlarger, and I noticed that the cap on my El-Nikkor 135 enlarging lens was marked "43mm." Sure enough, it fits the Wollensak perfectly.

 

Regarding filters: Ernest is right in saying that vignetting would be a problem (perhaps not on my 4x5, but definitely on 8x10). I guess I should just be happy that I can protect the lens with two inespensive 43mm caps.

 

Thanks!

Does anyone know the size of the filter threads for the Wollensak

8x10 Series IIIa EX W.A. f/12.5 6 1/4" lens? It looks like about 42-

43mm by the ruler, but filter threads are tricky to judge this way.

Also, was there ever a slip-on cap made for it (about 47mm)?

 

Thanks!

Jeff,

 

I have the Symmar-S 5.6/210, and have been very happy with it. My 4X enlargements from shots taken with it are tack sharp. I thought about trading it in for something lighter (I like to backpack), but it's bright, sharp, and has lots of coverage for 4x5 (even covers my 8x10).

Dave,

 

I'll echo the above comments regarding using a 4x5 system and cropping. 4x5 yields excellent quality, can be a very flexible system (shoot pano and regular 4x5s or change films whenever you like), and there's a great buyer's market right now (eBay, for instance).

 

There are plenty of scanners that will handle 4x5 film. For the traditional wet darkroom, 4x5 enlargers are a lot more common than 5x7s (which is what you'll need to print 6x17).

 

Using masks: it is fairly easy to create a mask (mattboard works well; so does a peice of unexposed and undeveloped 4x5 film) for the ground glass that lets you visulaize your desired format (1:3, 1:2.5, or whatever). On my Toyo 45AX, I've made a mask that fits in front of the film holder; my GG image and my film are both masked appropriately.

 

Be creative!

I have this enlarger also. A 135mm lens will give you a little larger print size on the baseboard. You can also pivot the head 90 degrees and print horizontally (although your negative may slide around in the carrier). Perhaps the best way is to wall-mount the enlarger and replace the baseboard with an adjustable one. By the way, if you need a copy of the MCRX manual, I can email you one.

Curtis,

 

Check out <a href = "http://www.ai.sri.com/~luong/photography/lf/darkroom-primer.html">B&W darkroom for large format

photography: a primer</a> on Tuan's site, especially the section "Using Trays." <P>

 

Straight lines dividing the neg into two distinct areas of development is usually caused by two sheets sticking together for part of the developing time. Part of the neg does not get an adequate flow of fresh developer. Try putting each sheet into the developer one by one, then using a constant and consistent interleaving. Keep track of the first sheet in by rotating the notch 180 degrees from the others; that way it can be the first out also.

<P>

Consistency is the key! Good luck!

I'm quite happy with my 2450, especially when scanning 4x5. It's pretty good on medium format also, but a 4x5 scanned at 1200 dpi is great.

For a custom made (read: more expensive than off-the-shelf), high quality solution, check out Steve Grimes:

 

http://www.skgrimes.com/product/adap/index.htm

40 years old, here in Indianapolis. And I feel younger at 40 than I

did at 25!

 

<p>

 

I've been shooting and printing 35mm since I was 20. I had a

girlfriend in college who was good in the darkroom, and introduced

me to B&W. Girlfriend�s long gone, but I still love photography!

Another girlfriend got me into playing music at church with her -

I'd do anything for a pretty face back then! Again, girlfriend's

long gone, but I still do church music today (professionally). Go

figure!

 

<p>

 

I've shot MF since I was 23, and I'm still breaking in my 4x5 which

I purchased last June. Or perhaps it's breaking ME in?

 

<p>

 

Thank you to all who contribute to this wonderful forum!!!

I've purchased this lens on Ebay, and although it appears to be in mint condition, my negs come out softer and with less contrast than I expected (center as well as edges). I have a variety of older and modern lenses, and my Nikkor 300 M seems to test out at the bottom of the heap!

 

<p>

 

Has anyone else run across this problem? Perhaps I just have a bad one, since I've read generally good reports about this model. Thanks!

John,

 

<p>

 

I was in the same situation. I purchased two #00 to #0 adaptors from

S.K. Grimes (www.skgrimes.com), and they're perfect! I seem to recall

they were about $30 each. Now, if I ever change cameras (again), I

know I won't have to hunt for hard-to-find #00 boards.

Marco,

 

<p>

 

Regarding monorail vs. field camera, I would agree with Huib. If you

enjoy hiking and don't want your equipment to limit your "movements",

a compact, lightweight field camera is the way to go. For landscape,

you won't need camera movements as much as you'll need the

flexibility to get yourself and your equipment to the right location

(without becoming exhausted in the process).

 

<p>

 

I too started out with a monorail (a nice little Calumet which I

still find wonderful to work with) but ended up purchasing a Toyo

Field 45AX. The Toyo takes me less than 30 seconds from backpack to

fully set up (including lens). The Calumet wouldn't even fit in my

backpack without MAJOR disassembly. I prefer not to carry my camera

outside my pack when looking for new locations, so set up and tear

down times are important for me.

 

<p>

 

In a nutshell, if you like to wander in the great outdoors, get

equipment that won't slow you down. And enjoy!

Phil,

 

<p>

 

Check out a program called fCalc at www.tangentsoft.net.