stuart_goldstein1

Film for classics

 

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http://www.frontiernet.net/~joankay/

In an infrared discussion group, Time said that he has written a book

about lith printing that should be available in the US by late spring.

The book is currently available in Europe and from the author.

Major differences between the toyo 45C and 45 CX: C has a revolving

back (CX you have to manually detatch the gg and then switch the

back), CX has a smaller lens board, C has fine controll over rise and

falls, C you can get other monorails (interchangeable with the rest of

the Toyo line from what I was told).

Another book is Dick Sullivan's The New Platinum Print available from

Bostwick and Sullivan, the Photoeye, and the platinum gallery. The

book costs $54. It seems like it covers a lot (only through page 30 pf

90 pages) and in detail (which I think is important).

 

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If you're in or near NYC, you can get the book from the platinum

gallery for $45 +tax (saves on shipping).

 

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None of the platinum books (at least from what I have found and I've

been looking) are carried at any of the large book vendors (amazon,

borders.com, B&N, B&N.com, etc.) Some used and rare vendors have some

of the books, but they may command high dollars.

 

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I'm also starting out in Pt/Pd processing. It's probably best to send

me e-mail privately if you want to exchange info because this forum is

for lf.

If you haven't looked at both cameras, do so before you buy.

 

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Also, check the threads in this discussion because many people have

discussed the cadet. Also check out the LF homepage for their review

and a bunch of comments.

One of my classmates went to visit a friend at college. While they

were out, this guy's apartment was robbed. The crooks stole all of the

35mm equipment but left the guy's hassleblad.

I'm going to be using my 4x5 negs with the plat/pall process and I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions/experience with the different papers that I can use for these contact prints.

I know that several people have said that they thought that the Toyo 45CX was a better entry level camera than the cadet (in other postings), but has anyone purchased one of these units and what comments do you have?

 

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I saw one at the Photo Expo East, and the Toyo does look and feel like a better camera than the Cadet (it felt and looked steadier and has geared fine focusing). Before I put my money where my mouth is, I'd like to hear any comments the forum has.

 

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Thanks.

I have processed 2 sheets (up to 6 per batch) of film as well, but I didn't get the scratching on the negative. It sounds as if you either didn't place the top clip on the film holder or that you didn't lower it far enough to hold the film in place. So what happens during the processing, the negative slides up and down along the groove causing the scratches.

 

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Another possible cause is the grooves on the film holder. Also make sure that the curved groves are on the INSIDE of the holder and not the outside (the straight groves should be on the outside). I was told that the straight grooves are for glass negatives. If the straight grooves are on the inside, you might get the same movement of the negative.

You said that there was some play on the used head. Go back and see if the corking on the QR is worn or frayed. Somebody may have tried turning the head without releasing the appropriate head gear. This rips the corking off the QR and results in more play (I speak from experience). Go back and check the cork to see if it's laying flat

 

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I've got a 3047 and it's fine.

Don't let other vendors tell you that you can use other batteries - bogen/manfrotto (they bought out gossen) told me that if I don't use the adapter the other batteries that I was sold could damage the unit.

 

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Get the adapter and save yourself the aggravation.

Have you checked with Polaroid directly either at their web page (www.polaroid.com) or by their 800#? Either location will give you the definitive information you seek.

View Camera Magazine, the May/June 1998 issue, covers 4x5 scanners in a two page spread (pp.60-61). The price of the scanners that they mention range from $10K to $20K. At those prices....

Why get bent out of shape over who was include and who was excluded from a "list of the greatest photographers," at least according to that Time Magazine.

 

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Remember this magazine is meant for general consumption, not for photography afficianados (like the folks in this group). Time wants to give the masses names to mention at a party so that they feel intelligent. Ignore the list, it's just there to generate discussion of their article (and sales of their magazine).

 

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Besides, they boldly stated that the "Truman Show" is the best movie of the decade. I saw it. It's not and doesn't even come close. So let Time make all the declarations it wants to make. We don't have to listen.

Be prepared to spend BIG bucks on a 4x5 negative scanner. Check macworld's product reports - I think that they reviewed a scanner within the last six months. Even if you don't have a Mac, this article will give you an idea how much the scanner costs and who manufacturers 4x5 scanners.

Have you tried calling Kodak (800-242-2424) directly to get this information? They've been extremely helpful in getting me the instruction manuals for their cameras that were made in the 40's and 50's. I think it's worth the try.

I am a photography student and was on public property and tryig to shoot a flower on a college's property. I was asked if I had gotten permision from the PR office. When I told the nuns that I hadn't (and I made sure that I was on the town's sidewalk etc), they asked me to leave and get permission.

 

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So I don't think that telling someone that you're a photo student is going to work.

 

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Another time, I was shooting some of the closed steel mills in Bethlehem. Every time a truck came into the parking lot that I was working in, the truck would honk its horn at me. There was no one else around. I decided that the best thing for me to do was to work quickly, get the shot, and leave.

 

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It seems that people are becoming more paranoid about "privacy" an "corporate espionage" issues and don't want anybody taking photos. At least that's what it seems like some times.

Check with Calumet. In the US (and I would assume worldwide), they have a policy that if you buy a Cadet and within 5 years (?) decide that you want to purchase a more expensive view camera, Calumet will credit the cost of the Cadet (currently around $400US) toward the purchase of your new camera. Of course, you would have to buy the new camera from Calumet.

 

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I have used the first version of the Cadet and found that the back standard DID shift if I locked it down. I have been told by Calumet that this problem has been resolved. (I ordered the "normal" unit, not the wide angle camera). I haven't reordered yet (but will if I can't find an affordable, relatively light, monorail camera).

 

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I won't tell you to rent, but have you called photography departments at your local universities and vocational schools? I took an LF course at a community college. Included in the cost of the course was the use of an LF camera for 10 weeks. The course gave me a chance to decide if I liked LF or not and to figure out how to use the camera (with the assistance of the instructor).

There's information on dye transfers and emulsion transfers on the polaroid home page (http://www.polaroid.com/crtv-use/test/index.html) and on Kathleen Thormon Carr's homepage (http://www.mcn.org/a/kcarr/). My understanding is that 8x10 transfers are done the same way that 4x5 (and smaller) transfers are done IF you're using a color polaroid taken with the 8x10 camera. If you're using a 35mm slide and then want to blow it up to 8x10 there's a different procedure.

 

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FYI KT Carr's book on emulsion transfer is great (and quite complete).

 

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Also check with Polaroid directly for more information (they have an 800 number). Ask for somebody in the emulsion/dye transfer area.

I've used the Combi Tank for 4x5 processing for 6 months. I haven't read Adams'negative book but I was told that the emulsion on 4x5 film is extremely delicate and that you can scratch it unless you're super careful (and even then). The thing to remember is the more you handle the negative, the greater the chance you have of scratching them. And by simply letting the water run on the negatives, one negative can scratch another.

 

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Rather than putting the negatives in the 8x10 tray to wash them, leave them in the Combi's negative holder and place the entire tank (the black tank and the negative holder) in the 8 x10 tray and let the water run into the tank and then out through the valve at the bottom of the tank. They'll still be washed and you don't have to handle them.

 

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I use a clearing agent, so I wash them for 10 minutes with the water running. I don't know what the recommendation is if you're not using running water.

I'm no Photoshop expert, but I don't think that correcting the verticals in Photoshop will give you the same effect as correcting them with a LF camera. Although you can rotate the building parts so that they look vertical, Photoshop will distort other parts of the image (i.e. it needs additional digital information not contained in the original medium format negative/slide - to accomplish this, Photoshop may use an interpolation routine to "guess" the type of pixels that are mixing).

 

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Granted, a Photoshop artist can "fix" the image after the verticals have been corrected, but what are the costs of using a digital artists (i.e., the amount of time involved to do this correction) versus sending out a photographer with a LF camera and getting it "right" the first time.

Several other LFer's have suggested the Calumet Cadet. The price for the camera ALONE as others have said is around $400. There had been some problem with rear standard stability (shifting when you locked it down), but I was told that this problem has been resolved. For another $300 or so, you can get a complete package including 2 film holders, dark cloth (be sure to upgrade to the professional dark cloth - the one that comes with the kit sheds - the professional cloth is a 2 color cloth, white on one side and black on the other; I think that it costs another $10), and a 150mm Rodenstock lens.

 

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Is the Cadet the best camera you can buy? Probably not, but it's a way to get into LF. Later, if you decide you want a better camera, Calumet had a policy where they would credit the full price of the Cadet to the purchase of another LF camera that you buy from them. Also Calumet has a 14 day no quibble return policy (check with them before ordering). If you hate the cadet...

 

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Other people have suggested renting a camera before you buy. It's a great idea. Even better is taking a LF course at a community or junior college (or even a four year college). This way you have somebody to show you how to use the camera, get some free (generally) dark room time to process your negatives (and print them). I don't know how much time the rental people will have to teach you to use the camera.

 

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Other LF books include Steve Simmons (great book) and Jim Stone's (it was okay).

I've had no problem to speak of with Calumet. When I told them that there was a problem with the Cadet, they issued a full refund INCLUDING the shipping charge (and they paid for the return shipping). Their sales people are always friendly and informative unlike some other places where all they want to know is what you want to order. Are there cheaper places of course.

The combi does leak if YOU don't close the valves properly. I've never had problems with the lower valve if I've mounted it on the tank properly. The top valve has an "open" and a "close" setting. You turn the valve counter clockwise to pour liquid into the tank and to force air into the tank when you're emptying the liquid. Before you agitate, make sure that you turn the valve COUNTERCLOCKWISE to close the valve (I don't have leakage problems as long as I close the valve).

 

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The funnel is small, but if the top valve is set to open and you pour the chemistry carefully, you won't spill. It does take some time to fill, but a larger funnel would probably change the center of gravity and cause the tank to tip over.

 

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The Combi does have a lot of small parts. But like anything, if you pay attention to what you're doing, clean the unit after you use it (and then put the film hanger back together immediately so that you don't lose any parts), and then store the tank in the original box, you won't lose any of the smaller parts.

When I bought gaffers tape (not duct tape) in the late 80's, I remember that I had to buy this large roll of tape and that it cost something like $35 (or more). I'm not sure you want to buy a full roll to tape up a handful of film holders.

 

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What about duct tape, which is much less expensive and available in hardware stores? Or even a call to 3M to find out what kinds of specialty tapes they make (or which ones give the greatest security).