salvatore_reitano

If you changed the batteries and the problem still persists than you will have to invest the 125$ / camera.

I have also an R4 and after so many years I noticed that the batterie was discarging with in 2 - 3 weeks without using the camera and nothing was touching any buttons. So it happens to electronic that for example the condensators may dry out or some resistance and diodes are no longer doing their job. This can happen to every camera that has electronic build in. With the on you have the issue earlier with others later. You may not encounter this problem with the FM2 as if I am not wrong the electronic is only for the metering and not for the control of the shutter.

I have an 2,5-3,3/35-70 from Angenieux.

Like mentioned by Bill it was also an outstandign lens for that time.

What I have noticed on my lens is that the coulors of the pics and also notable trough the finder differs very much from the real Leica lenses. E.g. the coulors are very warm and have something jellow.

I can use this lens only if I do not change lens for the entire roll.

So when you go to the store check trough the finder of your SL with an normal Leica lens if you do notice coulor differneces.

Why dont you use simply your M equipement? The R6.2 is also a complete manual camera. If you pretend to make pictures of your baybe with the best lens than you should stay with your M6 and if you want to make snap shoots a little bit latter when your baby is older than you maybe should look for something with AF.

I do not know the RTSII but if it has some automatic programs than keep it if you have Zeiss lenses as they are for this purpose also not bad.

Jason

Concerning your mal experience with R8 camera, did this issue happen to a specific series of R8?

I have a R8 and also a R4 and it was the R4 that did not work when I needed it.

The German magazine Color Foto is what concerns test very neutral.

The german magazin Color Foto did a test a few years ago comparing the R8 to the Nikon F5 and the if im not wrong the 1V from Canon.

The test has been done under very harsch conditions and all Cameras did work fine. Unfortunately I do not have the test results but maybe an other visitor of the forum has a copy of the test and can E-mail to you.

If money is not a problem... just take a M7 so you will not miss to much the electronic helps from the Nikon stuff.

For lens take a Tri Elmar (28/35/50) and if you still have some money left take a Elmarit 2,8/90 for tele. With this you should be all set for general travel purpose.

If you still have money left add a fast lens like a Summilux 35 / 50 mm or the much cheaper alternativ Summicron 35 / 50 for low light situation.

But you should realy follow the advise given by Kai and Josh and try first if you can realy work with the M equipement.

I have the VEA 2,8/70-180 as it is a very havey lens the use of a tripod is very recommended in ceratain situation. Your lens is about the half weigth so I do not see any issus with handholding it.

Just make sure that the shutter speed, as recommended from all profs, to use a minimum shutter speed of 1/180 or better 1/250-360.

I have a 3E and it is a typical travel lens. Especialy if you go to countries where the light is not an issue the 3E will surely do a good job.

With the light situation in Ethiopia during the day I ask my selfs how would you use the apperture of 1,4 - 2 when the M6 is limited to a shutter speed of a 1/1000 sec. ??

So for your specific purpose the 3E would be my first choice and the 50 Lux. would be the lens for shoots during the sunset.

Hello all together

I am going to have next week a trip to Sicily (Italy). I am going to

see the Etna volcano and want to take some pictures of this fire

mountain and also take some pictures of the landscape in general.

Has somebody of this forum ever been there and what kind of lenses

would you carry with you for this kind of trip?

I will carry my R4 or R8.

As lenses I have at my disposal my old Sigma 2,8/24 with R mount;

Elmarit 2,8/28; Lux 1,4/35; Sum. 2.0/50 ; Elm. 2,8/90; Elm. 4/35-

70 / VAE 2,8/70-180; 2x APO extender.

The film would be Fuji Superia 200 and Kodak Royal 200.

Thanks for your comments

I am an amateur that likes to take good shoots.

Photography became my hobby about 30 years ago when I got my first camera.

It was a GAF pocket camera. My first Leica a R4 I bought about 20 years ago.

As I could not afford the Leica lenses I started with the Sigma lenses which where available with R mount at that time. If I remember well I was one of the first that had a real Japanese APO Zoom lens� the 3,5-4,5/50-200 with R mount from Sigma. At that time compared to many other manufactures a sensational lens. I like this forum very much as all those who contribute to this forum are most part all experienced and competent photographers.

It is a pleasure to read their comments and to share experiences about Leica equipment and photography in general.

Forgot to say concerning the swithching of focal lenght:

You have to make sure that the corresponding frame in the camera switches properly.

Great lens for travel purpose if you can live with apperture 4.0.

Last year during my vacation in Rome I experienced some issues with flare by taking pictures a littel to direct toward the sun. So I would recommend to use the additional lens shade.

As this is a relaitvely complex lens make sure that the lens switches correct from 28 /35 /50mm when connected to the camera.

This are the only littel things I experienced with this lens.

So for travel purpose with the M6 there is nothing better.

Once you have it mounted on the M6 you wont take it away again unless you need more apperture.

I had this issue as well. And I must say if you have issues in focusing the 4/35-70 which is an extremely good to focus lens than you should do the same as I did.

I went to the optician which also sells Leica cameras.

We checked the eye sight and could so determine the right correction glass; I mean the piece of correction class to put on the camera. Special edition as Leica does not provide it.

So I can shoot now without wearing glasses as my R4 / R8 and even M6 are perfectly adapted to my eye sight.

To work with the glasses I take away the piece of correction glass from the camera.

The switch to M only because of the eye sight is in my opinion a bad idea as you have there the same issue, and to have if necessary a special correction glass is much more difficult as to have it for the R4.

To switch to M would only make sense if your eye sight is not really more than -1 Diop.

as the viewfinder of the M6 already is -1.

And to use an EOS 3 I do not know if there is a dioptre correction possibility.

However in my opinion the solution for you would be to have a visit at your optician with your glasses and with your camera.

The R4 is doing the same concerning the mirror.

You must anderstand that for to move a mirrior that fast that you can take pictures,a lot of energy is necessary to accelerate all the mechanical parts. This energy has also to be absorbed again.

This is done by using shock absorbig materials which act like a spring. But as the camera is relatively small it is technicaly quite impossible to bulid the camera in a way that you do not feel the mirror slap.

Now in generaly spoken... the bigger the camera the better it absorbes the slap and also it is better to put in better parts to absorb the mechanical energy.

With the R8 you feel not much of mirror slap.

If this mirror slap is an serious problem for you, you should use bigger lense e.g. instead of an 2.8/35 you should use the 1.4 / 35 in order to increase the weight and to stabilize the system.

So you see to have a light weight system is not always an advantage.

Ok guy´s !!!!

You convinced me...!

Thanks!!

Dear Leica friens

I would like to buy some Mini Softrelease from Camera Quest, and

obviously they like to be paid via PayPal.

Is this PayPal a secure and trust worhty organisation?

As I live here in Europe I do not know them.

Does some of you have experience with this PayPal?

Thanks for your replay.

Hi Feli

Welcome in the R world!

I have an R4 and R8 and as well an M6.

The mirror slap in the R4 is a typical SRL slap and I think the slap in the R7 is not much different, but with the R8 the slap is very good damped. Even my nephew which is an absolute Canon 1V hardliner admitted that he was absolutely surprised how quiet the R8 is for an SLR.

Last week I shot free hand in a museum at a 1/8 s and the picture did not show (at 10 * 15 cm magnification) no signs of effects form a mirror slap.

I forgotte to say...

If I had to travel in the conditions that you are describing I would recommend to have a back up body with you.

And for this I would recommend the R6.2 as mentioned by other Forum visitors.

Hello Boris

The German Photo magazine Color Foto did a test about 1 or 2 years ago. They tested the R8 / 1V form Canon and also the F5 from Nikon.

I know that there was also another one but I can not remember which one.

However ... the test was made so that the cameras were tested under realistic harsh environment and no one of all the tested cameras showed significant failures or so.

In other words � all top cameras are very well performers under harsh environment.

So if you like to have Leica you can go with the R8 and you will encounter not more issues as you will face with Canon or Nikon.

I personally own also R4 and R8 and the R8 is doing a very nice job.

The shutter is very quiet and the camera fits very good in practically everybody�s hand.

Dear Leica friends

I have a general question concerning Autofocus.

Appart that it is much faster than to focus manualy is it also

accurate as to focus with an M6 or a manual SLR?

What interest me most is the range from 24 up to 50mm lenses with

high open lenses like Noctilux, Summilux and Sumicron.

Or asked in a other way does it make sens to use for exemple a Canon

EOS 1V, EOS 3 / Nikon F5, F100 with high open lenses?

Are this kind of cameras realy good tools for to play with DOF that

results form 35mm lenses with aperutre 1.4 etc... .

Thanks for shearing your opinions ans experiences.

Steven

<p>

I am using the R4 for years.

When you press half way the shutter the exposure is locked. The R4 is

telling you this when the light of thr round LED for A Selectiv

disapears. The R4 shows you at this point the actual values but would

shot the picture with the locked values.

See also the manual.

Jay, Robin

<p>

Thanks for your comments.

<p>

By using an M6 in my case here I will probably gain something in

accuracy but on the otherhand I will lose the control over the

picture (DOF) as you stated Robin. And because I am absolutely not

used to that it will probalbly make me much more unsecure with the M6

so that what I may gain in accuracy I will loose in time waist

because of thinking about DOF so that at the end I win nothing.

So I really have to test an M if I can get familliar with it.

I hope the dealer will borrow me a used one for a few day`s.

<p>

Thanks again

<p>

Salvatore

Hello all together

<p>

I have a little bit problems with my eyes because of a light form of ceratokonus (I hope in English the term would be the same).

I must say I am used to it and can work with my cameras, it takes me a little bit more time to focus but it works.

I use my Leica R4 with a -3 correction lens and the R8 with a -2.

At the R8 I am having in total with the inbuild correction about -3,5.

The cameras so equiped I often have also to use my glasses to focus if the motiv has very little contrast.

I playing in my mind to get an M6 TTL 0,85 with a Tri-e as travel camera. Now I read and heard a lot of the acuracy of the RF system but do not know if that accuracy and the viewer of the M6 O,85 would make live realy easier for me.

The discussion her for me is not the Tele range but more the width angle 28 up to 50 mm.

For you infos I have the new R2,8/28, R1,4/35 and the R2/50 and somtimes when the light is good the R4/35-70.

As a an amateur photograper I consider my self as an generalist.

That means I take pictures for my business purpose on industrial exebithion`s, family parties, or simply vacation and travel photos.

<p>

Is someone there that had/has similar issues and what was your solution/compromise?

<p>

I would very appreciate every comment that would help me to find a decission wheter to go for a M6 or just simply remain with my R`s.

<p>

Salvatore