owen w.

My thanks. Yes, basically I know that adapters exist and that I can fit my M-mount lenses to several newer mirrorless cameras. But I would think this would have already spawned multiple threads of "this vs that" body, etc. No?

 

I'm trying to leapfrog a couple generations, going straight from analog film to reasonably current. Not cheap, but the A7iii seems a valid option. Maybe the next iteration of Canon, Nikon, or the others may really shine for such purposes. Again, are there not long, well-developed threads debating all this?

 

I love the feel of old lenses, and I have a few real beauts! Certainly I cannot be alone. If not a Leica body, then what? and why?

 

and . . . where?

 

Thanks, again.

Hi,

 

I’m a beginner only in a sense. I have years of film range-finder experience, and a collection of bodies and lenses to show. But I walked away from photography some years ago to do other things. Anyway, now I want to get a digital body to use with my vintage lenses. Almost all of these are Leica M mount lenses.

 

I cannot seem to find threads discussing the various merits of the options, and experience in practice. Surely this cannot be an undiscussed subject arena, can it?

 

For me, full frame simply means more lenses I can use. So, it mostly seems to be the Sony A series, or the new bodies from Nikon & Canon. I’m leaning heavily towards the A7iii. I cannot justify the expense of a Leica digital body, although I really covet the newest, re-slimmed M10 P. Sigh.

 

Anyway, where are the discussions of the range finder shooters who want to use their manual vintage lenses in the digital (mirrorless) world?

 

I don’t want to open a thread in the wrong forum, so please?

 

Many thanks.

<p>Well, I should report the progress.<br>

I sent the flash to Leica USA, who sent it on to Germany. After about a month, I have received their report that "the unit cannot be repaired any longer -- offer to exchange w/ new flash."<br>

The cost to exchange? $295.</p>

<p>Obviously, I declined the offer, albeit politely. I purchased a new unit from Adorama for more than $100 less.</p>

<p>Seems strange that the circuit board couldn't be swapped out. They have promised to return the dead unit. I will take it apart to see what it looks like inside, just out of curiosity.</p>

<p>Thus, my results.</p>

<p>Thanks, guys.  This unit has certainly not seen any water damage, although condensation might be possible.  This is not under warranty.  Nomad's description of a dead capacitor sounds about right.  All I know is that it spooked the h*ll out of me!<br></p><p>Should I write Leica to ask what repair might cost, or is it just better to assume that any repair costs would be equal to simply picking up another unit?</p><p>Somehow, I think just informing Leica of this failure seems worthy.  <br></p>

<p>My SF-20, little used for months, was pulled out on a recent trip. When I mounted it and turned it on, it started making loud and rather insistent pops or snapping sounds. In between these rather frightening sounds, I got off a couple shots. Then, I just got too scared to leave it on. It has not since been of use, but it does make these sounds even off the camera when the power is switched on. It is the same in M, A or TTL setting. I tried to use it again, shielding my face with a hand, but it no longer achieves ready-status. The batteries are new. And it is still popping. These sounds are 3 to 4 seconds apart, and can be felt as well as heard. I haven't been willing to leave it on very long, as it just sounds like the thing will explode. I suppose I could set it on a table outside and then walk away, but I thought I'd ask here first.</p>

<p>Any suggestions?</p>

<p>Many thanks.</p>

Thanks. Much appreciated. I haven't posted anything in quite a while. The locals up in these hills are decidedly annoyed when a camera is brandished. I've been shooting a whole lot less film in recent months.

<p>

The chopper shooting is fun, but my staffer got much better imagery with his VR-equipped digital SLR and zoom lenses. sigh.

<p>

Most of the time, I'm doing border security roads up along the border. Not all that interesting, photographically, anyway. :-)<div></div>

Oops. Too wide.<div></div>

Shot from the second chopper. Not taken with a Leica.<div></div>

Hanging out the door of a HueyII along the Afghan-Pakistan border.<div></div>

Born in Kansas. Turned 20 in Afghanistan. 21 in Nepal. 22 in India. After pit-stops for grad school, moved to Thailand for 15 years. Then, 10 years in Burma. Now in Peshawar, Pakistan.

Actually, almost as wild: A CLE "kit" of body, flash, 28, 40 & 90 just went for US$1,700! The CLE LIVES!!!!

<p>

See: http://cgi.ebay.com/Leica-M-Minolta-CLE-w-28-40-90-Outfit-99-99-NEW_W0QQitemZ110045195019QQihZ001QQcategoryZ30030QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I'm just so grateful that I bought the grips with each of my CLEs when I got them new back in the day. OTOH, I hadn't really thought about the Luigi half case with the grip. Nice idea. Anyway, this makes me think I could almost fund a new acquisition just by selling these little grips (if only I had kept the boxes, eh?) I won't sell, of course, but it's an amusing thought. Cheers.

Just for amusement. A NOS of the accessory grip for a CLE has just gone for

US$154. It's certainly a nice thing to add to a CLE, but...

<p>

See:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150047832333&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=005

<p>

Owen

Tough question, and the exact situation I have with my IIIa. Everything is perfect -- except that I can only really focus in bright light or with distinct vertical outlines. The question is whether to spend so much for such a minor repair or not. When everything else is working so well, why rush?

<p>

Personally, I've put off the decision by getting a 35/3.5 Summaron and a very nice VC 35 viewfinder. Thus, I focus to the extent I can, but generally trust the depth of field to make up for any error.

<p>

The IIIa is such a lovely machine. I really love mine. With a little practice, you'll zone focus before bringing the camera up, and you're already good to go. Just like the metering: what begins as a chore becomes easier and (almost) second nature. OTOH, loading the film remains a PITA. Be sure to do the leader trimming. Enjoy it (and show some results of your Mrs to the grand-dad, too).

<p>

Owen

The 21/2.8 ASPH should work just fine with the CLE. Yes, the hood does block the lower half of the focus patch, but you can either remove that hood (as you have done) or simply use half the focus patch. The hood is helpful in bad light settings. With the 21, the depth of field is also so huge, it is really hard to go wrong. You can zone focus and not notice the difference. I do not have the 21, but I do have the 24/2.8 ASPH which is essentially the same size. I find the CLE to be the body I use most with my 24. While the hood does add to the size, I find I leave mine on all the time and do not have trouble focusing. These wide lenses and the CLE are a great match. We will look forward to your results. Cheers, Owen

When my M6TTL was new, it had this problem and a couple others. I sent it back to Leica on the Passport Warranty and they replaced the electronics. That solved all the problems. I have never bothered to turn it to the "off" position since, and need new batteries about once every 18 months. It took practice to not cock the shutter, tho. If the shutter is cocked, and it is in the bag, count on dead batteries.

After I took the shot, she asked "Do you wanna see the butterfly spread its wings?" And then she showed me. I was duly impressed.

I've not handled the M8, but the 24 ASPH brings up the 35 framelines on the film M bodies. Frankly, I've always found this annoying, particularly on the .58 body, but that is merely MHO.

It's a repost, but I liked it.<div></div>

Uhh, Mitch, 1992 was certainly NOT "bloodless". I don't know where you were, but many were killed between the Royal Hotel and the Pan Fah bridge, not to mention along the side streets.

<p>

Still, this one is going better.., so far. The best quote of the day is from Opposition Senator Mechai Viravaidya, who welcomed Mr. Thaksin's departure, despite doubts about the methods used.

<p>

"I'm delighted he's gone," he said. "It would have been great if he had resigned voluntarily, but apparently he was too stubborn. But at least it's better than an assassination."

Better to keep your head down. Even accredited photojournalists have been killed during Thai coup attempts. It's tempting, but don't be stupid.

The suggestions here are good. Dunno if this helps, as it isn't close to Khao San.., BUT, across the street from Central Dept Store, Lard Prao, there are a group of big camera shops that are not too interesting from the equipment standpoint, but several have large glass front refrigerators filled with fresh pro films. These shops have always had the largest volume of fresh film I have found, even compared to the good equipment guys (like Classic Collection).

<p>

These shops, about 6 or 7 of them, are all in a row over a very short block. You can walk along to find the two with the biggest film stock. One shop is huge in digital output volume and not so much in film. A couple shops have interesting equipment, but little to zero Leica equipment. BUT, the best choices of fresh pro film I have found in Bangkok are here. There are very busy shops, too.

<p>

The point is that these are easy to find. Central Lard Prao is just a short distance from the end of the skytrain (Mo Chit station). Do not go into Central, but look across the street. You cannot miss them. They have huge signs. Anyway, just another option.

<p>

Cheers, Owen

Hi Imran!

<p>

I suggest a bit of experimentation. Like you, I'm finding very little to choose from in Pakistan. The Fuji ProPlus II 100 is generally the best I can find in the local market. It seems to be a low contrast film that is good for capturing details of colorful clothing but still capture details in darker and more complicated complexions. Still, I really like the results that can be had from better films. I have a quick run to Bangkok where I will be stocking up on film stock!!!

<p>

The Portra family of Kodak films are very, very nice. I really suggest the VC versions. The new 160VC would give you an opportunity to see more of the subtle differences in your excellent selection of lenses. They do cost more than the standard consumer fare, but I have very often found it well worth the cost.

<p>

I may be wrong, but I have found that given even/only average to decent processing (unlike what I have found in Pakistan so far, which has been grim!..), the film stock does make a real difference.

<p>

Frankly, I like 400 speed films. If Kodak, Portra. The Fuji NPH is also really nice, but the 400 Superia is not far off. The Fuji consumer print (both 100 and, particularly, the 400) is often a good deal, price-wise, and gives excellent results for the $$. This film may be your best bet, again only in my modest opinion.

<p>

The nice thing about 400 speed is that you can use the older and slower lenses wide open in low/er light situations, which gives you more chance to, again, appreciate your lens and camera collection. I find the low-end film less likely to be helpful, and the Kodak Color 200 is, IMHO, right down there. It will do for memories when nothing else is available, but you have a collection of fine photographic machines. Feed them right. But have fun in the experimentation.

<p>

For finding decent processing, keep asking.., and let me know what you find out.

<p>

All the best from Peshawar! Owen

Thanks, guys. I have such a weakness for old cars, in general, but I really like the 57-59 Caddies. I believe the dual lamps say that it is definitely the Brougham, although I think it may be the 1958. The true beauty of the lineage is, of course, the 1957 Eldorado Biarritz. Somewhere on a hard drive not here at my office, I have some shots of one I found in Kansas City a couple years ago. It is such an elegant car. Love threads like this one.

Bill,

<p>

Do you have any shots of the tail fins on that white Caddy? The headlamps look like a 58, although the design classic of this model was the 57. Would love to see your shots, if you have more of it. Thanks.