michael_a._shapiro

<p>Do you have any interest in a Leica 180mm 3-cam? It's in great condition.</p>

<p>Just a thought here: Try the Nikon D800/E set on 5:4 ratio. 30MP and some of the best lenses you can buy. It easily surpasses quality of medium format film.</p>

<p>These lenses have been tested and compared with other rangefinder lenses by Sean Reid at reidreviews.com.</p>

<p>Not normal. I've never heard of this happening. Send camera to DAG.</p>

<p>The second best fast lens is the CV 50/1.5. It is a tad cheaper than the Leica. Just curious, how often did you use a 65mm lens on your film camera?</p>

<p>The most futile thing you can do with an M is to use it for macro photography. The parallax is way too acute, and most lenses don't focus close enough. Even the camera won't focus that close.</p>

<p>As to the hood cap, if you always have a hood on the lens, obviously the hood cap is more practical.<br>

Regarding the right lens cap, most large camera stores sell slip on lens caps. Just find the right size, by trying different ones. Usually a couple mm's larger than the filter.</p>

<p>Good luck.</p>

 

<p>David, it's a normal thing that happens to cloth shutters as a result of pointing into the sun. It's a relatively easy fix at a repair shop. Don't worry about lenses or models.<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>Lilly is correct. The 21mm Zeiss is the sharpest least distorting wide angle for Nikon.</p>

<p>What focal length do you normally shoot with?</p>

<p>Yes, although the words titanium and user are not frequently found together. I would say the titanium factor would offset the rubbed off letters. In any event, all that only applies to resale. For your personal use, it's a fine deal.</p>

<p>First, be certain to have a 50. Use it all the time. Then, if you find a need for another length, buy it. Don't think about concepts or kits. Make sure the lens doesn't block the viewfinder.</p>

<p>You can use both at the same time.</p>

<p>Send to DAG for CLA.</p>

<p>Gary Winogrand.</p>

<p>I would suggest a Nikon D700 and an 85 f/1.4. It is one of Nikon's best lenses. Other option- M8/8.2 and 50 lux. Good luck.</p>

<p>What is a parallax viewfinder?</p>

<p>Pass. M2's are a pain to load in the best of scenarios. You will definitely need a full CLA-$300+ and the lens may be done for, though it's a gamble. In addition, it's antiquated technology.</p>

<p>Worth reselling? You'll have to decide for yourself. Prices? When film was still the medium of choice, perhaps these prices would have been ok. Now, it is unlikely you'll find anyone to pay that much for them. Maybe the lens on the CL, depending on what it is.</p>

<p>I highly recommend a Zeiss 35/f2.</p>

<p>I'd get an M6.</p>

<p>I seem to remember a trick to getting low light readings with an MC, like maybe a secondary scale or another switch.<br>

If that's not right, CV makes a good clip on meter.</p>

<p>The wider the lens, the more sky (light) gets exposed to the meter, so you do have to be careful about what you aim your meter at. Lens shades help. Putting your hand over the top of the lens helps.</p>

<p>Buy the Zeiss 35 f/2. I have used it extensively and like it. Quit looking at images on the web, you can't tell anything.</p>

<p>1. That's up to you.<br>

2.It can be fixed, and as long as the focus stays where you put it, the performance shouldn't be an issue. It would be a good idea to shoot some photos at close range and at infinity to make certain everything is ok. If anything needs adjustment, DAG is the best in the business.</p>