legnum

just saw there is a new cullmann flash G.N.42 for sale.

Did anyone try it?

any comment?

thanks for the responses for my previous question.

I would like to know, out of curiosity, if the built-in flash of EOS 300,GN12,is enough for shooting in the HK Convention and exhibition centre.The actual shooting distance is within that recommended by the instruction book.Same lens, film and condition of equipment as before.

Thanks a lot

Dear all,

i will be shooting indoor photo in the Hong Kong Convention and exhibition centre.But i am not sure if my 380ex with 28-80 3.5-5.6 lens is 'enough' to expose an iso 100 film.(without using bounce or diffuser).The equipment are of coz in good condition

I am actually asking those who had been shooting there.

Any experience given to me will be appreciated.Thanks.

I try to set flash exposure compensation by altering the film speed manually in my Rebel 2k,but the problem is that the film speed is adjusted in 1/3 steps while EV in 1/2 steps. So, will this be a problem,eg.i set the ISO 100 to 160 and then +0.5EV ?

I just wonder if the difference due to 1/3 steps and 1/2 steps is significant in this respect?

thanks

Just heard a friend of mine (professional photographer) complaint that the above lens focuses at an amazingly slow speed?

True?? i personally disagree...

All EX flashes will do this job,like 380ex(discontinued),420ex,550ex

Don't buy the 420ex, certain functions like 2nd curtain syn and FEC

cannot be carried with EOS300.

Agree with Jim,sigma flash is better.

Well,have anyone here tried this lens? Contrast? Sharpness? AF speed?

are there any lenses for comparison?

Thanks

Nikon sb-50 flash has a diffuser that diffuses the built-in flash of the camera,what's good with this?

Does or will canon make similar equipment?

i suggest u lock up the exposure reading before covering part of the

lens or underexpose it by 1-stop when the reading is taken after

covering.

sigma ef-500 super is also a good choice

i don't this pic is sharp enough.....esp the face..

If those 15-30 guys are in a line in front of you,then 24mm (a non-

canon lens,i guessed)focal length may not be wide enough.Even if it

is wide enough the image may be not be sharp.This is a problem due to

the lens' design.

If they are in rows,then surely some basic ideas about depth of field

are needed.Visit www.photozone.de

To add one point,fixed focal length lenses makes the use of P-L filter more convenient because the lens

elements just move to and fro in focusing instead of the annoying rotation of zoom.

Glad to hear that u buy slr instead of p-s

CP-L filter works the best when the camera is perpendicular to the

direction of sunlight.But u will 1.5-2 stops of light.CP-L darkens

the sky and makes the shape of cloud more clear.

Or try to use a blue-graduating filter.That gives u true blue sky.

i'm interested to know if the optical quality of the 200mm focal length of EF80-200 f/4.5-5.6 is better than that of 75-300 f/4-5.6 ?

i'm interested to know if the optical quality of the 200mm focal

length of EF80-200 f/4.5-5.6 is better than that of 75-300 f/4-5.6 ?

i've seen some people mounting a lens in the reverse direction,using an adapter ring in a japanese photographic magazine.

What's the purpose?

Is there anyone has any experience with this?

thanks

the aperture(max) of tamron 28-200 is 3.8,but in my EOS-300 the aperture settings are in half-stop,so will '3.8' be calculated as 3.5 or 4.0?

Also i want to install a CPL filter on my EF 28-80,but it has a rotating front element,will it be clumsy to use the filter?

I want to hear different people's experience

As i cannot set my EOS-300 manually to focus continuously,i have to use the sport mode to shoot fast moving object,but i notice that there is no exposure mark in this mode,so will the camera underexpose due to a high shutter speed?

actually fast synchro will meet your demand.The subject (closer) is

illuminated by flash while the background remains dark because it

requires longer exposure time.Use 1/90 for your Rebel

Referring to Jim's answer,i've also read a test in 'Practical

Photography'about them,which shows that the DL is sharper than the

APO (even the testors don't know why).

I would like to know how did Jim conduct the tests?

What is 'a bit'? Any quantitative analysis,the magazine i mentioned

probides MTF figures and things alike

Heard the following about EOS-3 with 550ex:

1)the second blade of the shutter does not juice battery during long time exposure,really? any other EOS has similar feature?

2)the 550ex emits strobes of light when the DOF button is pressed,why and for what?

Of course the 200 f/2.8,for large aperture,fast focus and superior

optics,apart from its high price.

80 and 105mm actually do differ a lot,so do the apertures of f/4.5

and f/5.6.

Ring usm is fast and quiet but do u think it is worth the higher

price?

The 'classical' focal length for portrait is 85 to 135mm,if u really

want a true portrait lens,use those large-aperture lens such as

85/f1.8,100/f2...etc.

The only thing that i consider the 28-105 good is the IF,which allows

me the use of CPL.

Before you buy a new lens,try use the old one at small stops like f/8-

11.the lens performance may be better.