jerome1

Sorry

<p>

In my previous message, read "film speed" instead of the

french-looking "sensitivity" !

<p>

;-)

Niki

<p>

As for the 34 CS2, you can not choose aperture and sensitivity

independently, contrary to high-end flash units that are full of

electronics.

There are only three automatic modes:

<p>

- mode 1: f/2 @ 100 ISO, or f/2.8 @ 200 ISO or f/4 @ 400 ISO etc.

- mode 2: f/4 @ 100 ISO, or f/5.6 @ 200 ISO or f/8 @ 400 ISO etc.

- mode 3: f/8 @ 100 ISO, or f/11 @ 200 ISO or f/16 @ 400 ISO etc.

<p>

If you want to use, for example, f/2.8 (for shallow DOF) with 400 ISO

film, then it is not possible. You have to stop down at f/4.

<p>

I am not aware of any very compact flash unit with more flexibility in

choosing aperture and sensitivity (although, in principle, it is

feasible with more electronics). The Nikon SB22s has four automatic

modes but it is significantly bigger. The Nikon SB28 and Metz 54 MZ3

can be set to whatever aperture and ISO you want, but they are MUCH

bigger and more expensive.

<p>

Another thing with the Metz 34 CS2: the built-in sensor takes into

account a quite narrow solid angle, somehow equivalent to the field of

a 105 mm lens. Thus, to avoid overexposure with a 50 or 35mm lens and

with a subject that takes only 1/3 or 1/2 of the picture, you better

underexpose the flash by setting, for example, f/2 on the flash and

f/2.8 on the camera (with 100 ISO film).

<p>

For night street photography (special events), I use the 34 CS2 on my

FM2 mainly with 50mm and 28mm lenses, 200 ISO slide film, mode 1 on

the flash (f/2.8 @ 200 ISO) and f/4 on the lens.

<p>

I rarely use this additional flash with my T3, because on long

distance subjects I usually have my SLR, while for short distance the

built-in flash is OK.

<p>

Finally, there is a silly thing on the T3 (Contax, do you hear me?):

to my knowledge, you can not select slow synchronization WITHOUT

red-eye reduction. This is a pity because in some cases you may need

such a setting. And with an additional flash in slave mode, you can

NOT use red-eye reduction because the slave flash will fire with the

first burst of the built-in flash ! In conclusion, with the T3, you

can not have slow synchronization (speed below 1/60) with an

additional slave flash.

<p>

In any case, I think that for good flash photography, SLR+ external

flash is much better than any high-end P&S. And with the T3, thanks to

the weight and the absence of a mirror, you can use very slow speed

(no flash) without altering the image quality: try it !

<p>

Regards

<p>

Jerome

Phil and Cosmo

<p>

There is also a compact slave-computer flash unit made by Metz, the 34

CS2 model. It has three automatic positions (f/2, f/4 and f/8 at 100

ISO) and can be used in slave mode with a P&S in aperture priority

mode.

<p>

I use it mainly with my FM2, obtaining nice results, but I have also

tried it with my T3 and it worked fine.

<p>

See:

http://www.metz.de/1_metz_2000/m_pages_english/4_mecablitz/m_mb_produkte/m_fs__34_CS-2.html

<p>

Jerome

I have my T3 since two days. I had no time to shoot pictures yet, but

I am very happy with the specifications.

<p>

I confirm the spot AF with the AFL button, it is specified in the

documentation. And it is very easy to check by yourself, looking at

the distance scale.

<p>

Three negative points:

1) The AFL button could also extend the lens, however it does not.

2) I miss a separate exposure locking button. Half-pressing the

shutter does the job, but it is not so convenient.

3) Flash in slow-synchronizing mode activates the red-eye system: it

is a bit odd ! Sometimes I need night mode without red-eye reduction !

<p>

Otherwise I think from the point of view of ergonomics, it is the best

high-end P&S camera that exists !

<p>

Jerome

1) Of course the slave flash method with a P&S works for subjects that

are out of reach of the body flash, otherwise you may overexpose. It

is possible to put a bit of paper on the body flash to reduce the

distance.

<p>

2) If the meter is external, you might wind a film until the point you

want by fooling the meter with a lot of light, while keeping a lens

cap not to expose the film. It's a bit tricky, I know...

<p>

I have ordered a T3 and I am waiting for it...

<p>

Jerome

An economic possibility to enhance flash photography with the T3 would

be to use a flash in slave mode, such as the small Metz 34 CS2. I

sometimes use this flash together with a Stylus Epic P&S with nice

results.

<p>

Jerome

Well now I think I have understood everything about focusing

possibilities ;-)

<p>

What about meter accuracy ? Has anyone shooted slides with bright

sunshine ? This is a good test to see whether the shutter goes as fast

as it is written. For example:

- with 100 ISO slide film and a lot of sun, you need f/8 @ 1/500 (f/16

rule). In A mode, choose f/8 and see what happens.

<p>

J.

Now, thanks to you all, I understand there are three lens positions on

the T3: (A) the lens is stored inside (B) the lens is "parked" a bit

outside © the lens is focused.

<p>

In standard AF mode and also with the AFL function, according to what

you say, the lens goes from (B) to © to (B) when firing, correct ?

<p>

Then, again on Manual Focus operation: does the lens really stays at

position © (fully focused, as I understand from some of your

comments), or does it also go from (B) to © and © to (B) ?

<p>

I would love to see one sample, but they still don't have it where I

live in France. I was used to Minox 35 GT (I sold it because there was

no AE and/or exposure correction, not convenient for slides), and I

liked very much the very quick manual focusing with the Minox.

<p>

There is a black version of the T3 on the japan web site. I have asked

if it would be available from online shops in Germany, I am waiting

the answer. Black or silver, it is a matter of taste, and I understand

that for this price one would like to choose the color !

<p>

Have a nice day

<p>

Jerome

Kwen,

<p>

For my question A2, do you mean that even if in AFLock mode you custom

the camera to keep focus until turning off (CF6), the lens is

retracted after each frame ? It would be a bit odd, I think.

<p>

I am wondering why you bother about keeping the same f-stop after

turning off and on: you could then just stay in aperture priority

mode, with your favorite f-stop, don't you ?

<p>

Thank you again

<p>

Jerome

More questions about the various focusing possibilities.

<p>

A) Focusing with the AFL button:

1) if you custom the camera so that focus is locked until turning off

(CF6), how do you return to standard AF mode ?

2) does the lens extend as soon as you push the AFL button, or do you

have to half-press the shutter button once ?

<p>

B) Focusing manually by pre-selecting a distance:

1) once you have selected the distance using the Mode button and the

+/- dial, how do you change the distance between each frame ? by the

Mode button and the dial, or the dial only ? (assuming that you use

the custom function CF7 to keep manual focus mode until reset)

2) does the lens extend as soon as you have selected a distance, or do

you have to half-press the shutter button once ?

3) how many distance steps are available ?

<p>

Thank you very much for all these interesting comments.

<p>

Jerome

How does the manual focus on the T3 work ? By dial or by a litte

button ? Please detail the procedure.

<p>

Thank you very much

<p>

Jerome