julian_radowsky

I have printed Canon D60 image at 90cm x 60cm with no visible pixellation (not even when you examine the print from 20 cm away).

At normal viewing distance of about 1.5m it is not possible to tell that the print is a large format inkjet (Agfa Sherpa)

If you look verly closely at the EOS5 hotshoe, you will see that under the little springs beneath the rails, there are microswitches, these tell the body that an external flash is connected, and prevent the pop-up flash from opening.<p>Check the switches, one of them could be stuck (use a jewellers screwdriver or even a toothpick to wiggle it a bit, it might then spring back up).<p>Hope this helps.

If you delete all the files by using the camera erase function, then it will leave folders if the folder was not full at the time of deletion, if the folder was full, then it will be deleted.<p>This ensures that the file numbering sequence is maitained if you have the camera set to continue numbering when the card is re-inserted.<p>If you format the card, or erase all of the files and folders from the external card reader, then the file numbering sequence will begin at 100-0001 again, and you could end up overwriting files that you already have stored.

The 'L' designation is for Canon lenses that have at least one Fluorite or artificial Fluorite lens in its construction.<p>That why neither the EF50 f1.4 Or the 400 DO IS are 'L' lenses, even though image quality from them is incredible.

It should fit without a problem.<p>The main difference between the EW-63II and the older hood is that the new hood has a matt flocking on the inside, whilst the old hood is just a matt texturing of the plastic hood.

David,

I have a D60 (same size sensor as 10D)<p>I have a matted and framed picture on my wall that is printed at 60cm x 90cm (26.6" x 35.4").<p>It is ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to tell that the image came from a 6MPixel digital image.<p>You have to get about 10cm from the image, and really look hard to even notice that the print is a large format inkjet (Agfa Sherpa) print.<p>The image sent to the printer was from a file on CD that had been upsized from the full frame original (18 MB) and bicubic interpolated in steps of about 20% increments to the final size (225MB).

What about mounting onto the QR in the opposite direction?<br>Instead of pulling the camera/lens onto the QR (meaning that you have to get the QR between the lens collar and the battery pack), face the head from the other side and push the lens/cemera onto the QR, you will then have the QR in front of the collar when you mount, and the battery pack will no longer be in the way.<p>The only 'problem' is that the camera will be facing the 'wrong way' on the ball head, but you should still have the full movement of the ball available.

You can also look <a href="http://www.steves-digicams.com/digsoftware_utils.html" target="_blank">here</a> for links to recovery software!

The ability to recover yout images relies on a number of factors:<br><ul><li>Does the format procedure zero all the data on the card, or just clear the File Allocation Table.<ul><li>If the format zeroes the data, you cannot recover the images.<li>If the format only clears the FAT then:<ul><li>Is it possible to rebuild the FAT in the same way one could rebuild older DOS disk FATs<ul><li>If not, you cannot recover the images<li>If yes, are there tools available to do this<ul><li>If not, you cannot recover the images<li>If yes, how fragmented is the data on the card, since successful FAT rebuilding relies on the data being as unfragmented as possible in order to recreate the FAT cluster chain.</ul></ul></ul></ul>

<br><br>You can look here as well:<a href="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=utf-8&q=CompactFlash+FAT&as_q=recover&btnG=Search+within+results">Google Flash Card Recovery Search</a><br><br>Good Luck!

Serial Number?

Don't get ANY lens for NO sensible reason.<br><br>Rather get two usable lenses for the same price as the one exotic lens.<br>That would be reasonably sensible 8-)

Just out of interest, why do you want the 50/1.0L?<br><br>The only reason to get or need this lens is if you need to take pictures in very low ligh conditions, will be handholding, will be exposing at f1.0 aperture, and cannot use flash.<br><br>The image quality from this lens is NOWHERE CLOSE to the image quality of the Canon EF50/1.4, OR EVEN the Canon EF50/1.8, both of which are considerably cheaper and lighter than the Canon EF50/1.0L<br><br>See Philip Greenspuns Canon <a href="http://www.photo.net/canon/50-1.0">EF50/1.0L</a>, <a href="http://www.photo.net/canon/50-1.4">EF50/1.4</a> and <a href="http://www.photo.net/canon/50-1.8">EF50/1.8</a> reviews</a> if you are not convinced.

Peter, you cannot fix metamerism with a RIP processor, since metamerism is a property of the pigments, and the print pre-processor is not going to change the pigments' chemical properties.

Well, the job came back, the operator printed the full size (600mm x 900mm 300ppi) file (225MB) after minor colour corrections to match my Fuji Frontier sample.<BR><BR>All I can say is <b style="font-size:16pt;">WOW!UNBELIEVABLE!</b><br><br>The printer actually only prints at 720dpi, but for my requirements this is good enough - the print will be behind glass, matted and framed and viewed from a distance of at least 1.5m<br><br>I could have printed the image on an Epson 10000 PRO, but then I would have had to pay quite a bit for the print (a friend of mine runs a repro/prepress lab, and the Afga is one of his printers, so I got a very large discount!).<br><br>

The image is from a Canon D60, and only with REALLY CLOSE inspection can one tell that the source is a vastly upscaled digital image (there is minute evidence of unsharp masking on edges with extreme colour/brightness change, like from black to amber - BUT, you really have to be looking for it to notice it!!)

Thanks for the info.<br>I have already prepared files for the printer at 300ppi at a number of sizes, the operator will choose the most suitable file for the RIP that produces best quality at best print speed (I want output dimensions of 600mm x 900mm). <br><br>I will post later about the results and details of the job that was run.

Hi,

I want to print some of my images on an Agfa Sherpa 43 large format printer.<br><br>

This is a six colour inkjet (much like the epson 10000 PRO) with output of 1440x720 DPI and 43" width paper.<br>Does anyone know the native DPI value for this device?<br><br>I want to do all of the upsampling and USM myself in Photoshop, and would prefer it if the print engine did not do any additional upsampling (unless the print engine is so good that I need not worry if I provide source images at 300DPI at my chosen output dimensions)<br><br>Thanks in advance

Personally, it does not matter.<br>I have an EOS D60, the image quality is awesome and it works with all of my EOS kit.<br>The 6MP camera products 18MB tif files that I work with in Photoshop.<br>I have printed the files at 10"x15" on a Fuji fontier (upscaling, USM), and the result is absolutely incredible.<br>The image size (at output of 300DPI) produces a picture of 6.827"x10.24", since most people want 4"x6" or 5"x7", the source file has to be downsampled anyway for this output. <br>A 6MP file (especially from the D60) provides MORE than enough image detail to output files from 4"x6" all the way up to 10"x15" (frontier maximum) or even A3 (for Epson Photo printers) at 300DPI.<br>If you are not going to be printing much larger than this, then more than 6MP is overkill.<br>Additionally, the type of photography I do benefits from the 1.6x focal length factor of the D60 (an added bonus - my EF50mm f1.4 has become quite a fantastic 80mm f1.4 portrait lens)

You are getting horizontal scan lines because the flourescent tubes in your lightbox are not emitting light as a constant stream (like you would get from black body radiation such as a filament of an incandescent light bulb). There are actually periods of darkness (or dimness) when using a flourescent light source, your eyes just do not see them because of persistence of vision, but the scanner does.

 

Even though the electricity in an incandescent light bulb IS cycling at 50/60hz, the filament still radiates light when there is no electricity (Zero Volts, every 50th/60th of a second), but a flourescent light tube is almost completely off(dark) at the zero volt level.

 

Hope this is the correct answer!

Blocked nozzles on the print head.

 

The epson printer cartridges do not have the main print nozzles in them, they are in the print head that the cartridge clips into. Replacing an ink cartridge will not correct blocked nozzles (sounds like the red nozzles are blocked).

 

You need to run the nozzle cleaning procedure for your printer.

I have the G2, and in most respects it is an excellent camera. I have no issues with the image quality at all (I have printed portraits at size of 12"x16", and behind glass they look awesome).

<br>

However, I do have the following two issues:<br>

1] Maximum optical focal length is a bit too short - this has been resolved with the G3<br>2] Shutter lag when using an external flash (550EX) is very pronounced - to the degree that sometimes the shot/moment is lost, I an not sure if this has been resolved with the G3.

<a href="http://www.ddisoftware.com/qimage" target="_blank">QImage Pro</a> does the job you want. It also does the most unbelievable upsampling. I have printed images from my Canon G2 (1704x2272 pixels) to a final size of 300mmx400mm (11.8" x 15.7") with my Epson Stylus Photo EX, and behind glass it is almost impossible to tell that the image is from a digital that has been drastically upscaled.

Cool bananas, will try it out tonight.

Julian Loke - I have an EOS3, as far as I can remember, there is no CF on the camera for 2nd curtain sync, but I will check and try your method that works for the 7E.

The one feature that I really want with the EX series of flashes is the ability for the flash to automatically switch between 2nd curtain and high speed (FP) depending on the TV setting the camera sets when in AV mode, this would really help with shoots at functions where the guests are located both indoors and outdoors and I am moving quickly between the two environments (I sometimes forget to switch the flash modes in the heat of the battle)

Nope, it means that when you are using spot metering and CF13-1 is set, then the other focus points that are available will also use spot metering, with CF13-0 enabled, spot metering only works on the center point, all other points are matrix metered.