jay_goldman3
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Posts posted by jay_goldman3
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<p>People may jump on me but these prices are much too high. R lenses have been hard to sell even before digital and these are old models (check which generation the 90 Summicron is). Even10 years ago at the Boston photo show dealers would only buy R lenses if they were super cheap.</p>
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<p>When I go to the B&H site it says $725 not $650???</p>
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<p>I pulled it out and replugged it but 'film' setting is still grayed out. Maybe the transparency scan light is shot. </p>
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<p>Yes, it is plugged in. If I try to scan a negative with the reflective setting the scan light moves but the image is of the negative holder.</p>
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<p>I have an Epson 2400 scanner. When I need to scan slides or negatives, I choose film as the dcument type and have never had any problems. Now, when I pull down ddocument type the film choice is greyed out and I can only use reflective. I even reinstalled the driver without success.<br>
HELP PLEASE!</p>
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<p>I have an Epson 2400 scanner. When I need to scan slides or negatives, I choose film as the dcument type and have never had any problems. Now, when I pull down ddocument type the film choice is greyed out and I can only use reflective. I even reinstalled the driver without success.<br>
HELP PLEASE!</p>
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<p>Dan,<br>
How do you turn off noise reduction on the G10. I've consulted both the manual and the menu items in the camera and can't find it. <br>
Yhanks, Jay</p>
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<p>Dan,<br>
How do you turn off noise reduction on the G10. I've consulted both the manual and the menu items in the camera and can't find it. <br>
Yhanks, Jay</p>
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<p>I forgot to say that in Bridge the raw files are marked 'color profile: untagged'.<br>
Jay</p>
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<p>I have CS4. I just downloaded the latest version of ACR so I can open G10 raw files. But now my problem in bridge is that it no longer shows the pictures for any raw files, even dng. With dng the ikon shows a picture of round aperture blades and the letters DNG. With the G10 raw I get only blank ikons. If I click on such an ikon the image opens with no problem in ACR. <br>
I never had such a problem before upgrading ACR. Any suggestions appreciated.<br>
Jay</p>
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<p >Is there an inexpensive flash with tiltable head for the original Rebel (300D). Thanks in advance.</p>
Jay </p>
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Thanks all. The advice worked. I now have version 2 installed.
How is auto IS liimitations done. Leica says to look in the M8.2 manual, but that is not available online.
Jay
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Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.
Jay
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When I download the new version, I get a .upd file. My Mac Pro with OS Leopard says it has no application to open this file. Any help
appreciated.
Jay
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I just printed some old scans of negatives and they were fine whereas the recent negative scan printed badly. Tomorrow I
will rescan one of the older scans and see what happens. I'm beginning to think that the problem could be in the scanner.
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I have tries the various things suggested with no change occuring.
Conni, I assume your advice was about B&W prints, not color.
The puzzle still is that when I send a digital camera file to the printer everything is fine. When I send the scanned file (straight or
converted to sRGB) I have the problem. It is worse with an 8 1/2 x 11 print than with a 4x6, but the 4x6 is still not acceptible.
Again thanks all.
Jay
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Thanks for your response Roger. I believe I have done all of these things.
My monitor is calibrated with a Spyder 2. I have done double cleaning and I printed an rGB file this morning with a full color range. I
also do sRGB with no problems.
I choose the appropriate paper profile in the HP software (it is an HP paper). I usually let the printer mange the color along with choosing
color synch since it works very well. But I've also tried it with photoshop managing the color and choosing colorsmart III.
Is profiling the monitor an additional process? If so I don't know about it.
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When I scan a color negative or print on my Epson 2400, the image on my monitor looks fine but the prints are very pink e.g., sepia comes
out pink. I have no such problem printing from my digital camera files. In the past I have not had any problems with scanned slides.
Any ideas appreciated.
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Outdoors hold the camera upside down. The flat foldout piece acts a very good lens hood.
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Take a look at Mark Ribaud's book on Angkor Wat to see what can be done with a film Leica.
I shoot the M8 with Raw +B&W Jpeg and I am amazed at the high quality of the B&W jpegs. I usually do not have to convert from raw. At
the moment my largest prints are 8.5 x 11 inkjet.
Have a good trip,
Jay
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I've used Leica M's for over 40 years. My wife insists that I always have an M since the
few times I used other stuff, I did nothing but grumble about not having a Leica.
Nobody mentions that the D3 and 1Ds Mk III are monsters. I can walk around all day with
my M8 on my shoulder or around my neck. With the monsters I would last about 5
minutes. You get the picture when you have the camera with you. I hear lots of pro's say
that when they are traveling and not on assignment, they would never carry their
monsters with them. There are things on the M8 that annoy me, but overall I would not
give it up.
I'm fortunate that I can afford the M8 (or almost any other camera) and that I already had
my M lenses, so my comments are based on what is the best camera is for me.
I shoot jraw + B&W jpgs. I'm amazed the the quality of the jpgs. they often don't need
any post processing.
Oh yes, a camera w/o an optical viewfinder is a deal breaker for me and the M8 has by
far the best vf around.
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Try http://www.stevecamera.com/ I got this on the RD1 forum. They do work on the
rd1 and were given a good report on the forum. Call them.
Jay
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I tries the 28C f3.5 and found it very good for film but very very dark corners on the RD-1 at all f stops.
Now I use a Minolta 28 f2.8 (made for the Minolta CLE and Leica CL) and I get fine results. This is not an easy lens to find and it will probably cost at least $500. Most of them have a little separation, but it has no effect on the pictures. However look carefully through the rear of the lens. If you see a lot of bubbles, on the rear coating of the front element, don't buy it. If not, don't worry. it will not develop.
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Look at the R-D1 forum at
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=48
There havbe been extensive discussions of batteries on the site
Cleaning HP B9180 Pro
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted