jim_blecha

If you decide to use the Calumet rear element filter holder, you'll

only need to buy one if you apply sticky velcro to the holder's feet

and the back of each lensboard. You can then move the holder from lens

to lens as needed. It's also out of the way when not being used.

Chet, I suspect you'll be OK with the 75mm super Angulon which has

plenty of coverage for 4X5. You can determine this lenses' age by

consulting Schneider's page at schneideoptics.com. For the price

difference between the 72mm XL and the 75mm, you'll be just fine.

As long as the lense hasn't been abused it should perform well. Good

luck. Jim

Bill, are you sure that nothing on the camera is moving? I have found

that small amounts of play in lensboards and rotating backs on my

older Cambo can sometimes cause registration problems on multiple

exposures. Taping lensboards and backs in place has solved this

problem, but soft ground under tripod legs and stray dogs running into

tripods still require constant attention.

Chris,

 

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Ellis is correct about the difference in lens design (35mm retrofocus design vs 4X5 non-retrofocus design) having an effect on light fall off. The rear lens element of a wide angle LF lens is often not much further fron the film plane than its 35mm equivalent and since the LF lens must cover much more area, the light reaching the edges of the film must travel many times farther. And we all know that means less light at the edges than the center.

 

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I use a Schneider center filter designed for my 90mm f8 and it works great for outdoor shots on color film. It also works well for Schneider's 75mm f5.6 and 65mm f5.6 lenses but some falloff is still evident. IMO it has been worth every dime I paid for it! It works best with low contrast films like Kodak's VPS and E100SW. I did some shots with Pro 100 and when I printed them, the corners were actually lighter than the center of the print.

 

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Why Nikon ignores this matter of physics puzzles me though. Rent some LF WA lenses and try them before you buy. You probably won't see much difference. Also, be sure the center filter you buy. Schneider's goes from 67mm at the lens to about 85mm at the fron to avoid vignetting when you use movements. It's really disappointing to compose, stop down, close shutter, add filter, take picture, then see vignetting in final product. Been there, done that, didn't buy the T-shirt.

 

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Have fun, Jim

I own and use 2 Schneider 90mm f8 Super Angulons on a regular basis and the only difference I can see is that the new MC version has less tendency to flare than the older SC (single coated, 70's?) version when there happens to be a bright window in the corner of an interior composition. In my opinion, this lens has changed little over the last 30 years. For 99.9% of potential applications, I doubt anyone could see a quality difference in the results of the two lenses.

 

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Both of my lenses have black barrels and similar dimensions. When shopping for this lens used, I would be more concerned with its condition than its vintage. A newer, but abused lens with some separation of elements will not perform as well as an older one which has been cared for.

If you haven't already found the Graflex page, look in their FAQ section under accessories/grafmatic backs. There are operating and loading instructions. Try graflex.org. The backs I own work great.

I once owned a 210/370mm convertible Schneider Symmar lens and recently traded it for the newer version 210mm Symmar. As a 210mm it was OK, but you must understand it was about 30 yrs old and had been dropped several times by previous owners. This one was silver. The 370mm quality was very poor (not worth using). Most 210's are now in Copal #1 shutters, but newer 150mm's are in Copal 0 shutters.

 

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You should also know that in addition to buying shutters, you must also purchase aperture scales (if available). The last scales I purchased several yrs ago from Calumet were about $60. Add the cost of a new shutter, probably $250+ and you'll be better off purchasing a more recent used lens with shutter. Newer lenses will likely have a better coating for color work.

 

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The right price for the lenses you are considering is probably free!

I have owned a Cambo SC and used it extensively for over 5 years. I purchased it used and it was about 3-4 yrs old then. It's basically the same as the Calumet 45NX which is still sold today. Lensboards, backs, bellows and many parts are interchangeable. If the standard 22" rail is too long for you, Calumet sells an 11" rail which will work with lenses up to 210mm at infinity.

 

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There were lots of minor cosmetic changes over the years, and the older ones have more silver parts. There have been tons of these cameras or similar sold over the years, and they're a great buy. Get a Calumet catalog to see all the great accesories available.

According to Henry Wilhelm's 1993 book, THE PERMANENCE AND CARE OF COLOR PHOTOGRAPHS, Fujichrome Velvia is one of the longest lasting after the Kodachromes. Wilhelm's book goes into great detail about accelerated testing of permanancy of many products and different ways to increase the life of your originals. In 1993 it was possible to purchase his book for $69.95 + $4.95 for shipping, but I found a copy at my local library. Try Preservation Publishing Co., Dept CDM, 719 State St., Grinnell, IA 50112-0567. Or call 800-335-6647, Ext. 49.

On lens shades, I agree with Peter Hughes. Even though I own one for my Cambo 4X5, I most often use pieces of black matte board attached with to the lensboard with sticky velcro. Bend the board outward from the velcro on the corner of a table before using the first time and size it as needed. The price is right and both hands are free! Just watch out for vignetting with wide angle lenses.

I rented and used the Nikkor 65mm f4 lens several years ago for some architectural work and it performed OK, but you'll probably see falloff with any LF wideangle. I know you don't want to use a center filter, but the Schneider filter I bought for my Schneider 90mm f8 makes a huge difference and works well on Schneider's 65mm f5.6 and 75mm f5.6. You may also get your local camera pro shop to order a "generic" center filter, which might also work well for less cost. Rent one if you can and try some tests--you'll be hooked.