ivor_quaggin
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Posts posted by ivor_quaggin
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Don't let Jay put you off the R9. I have an R8, early model, and
have had no problems whatever with it. I also have an R7 and
while I sometimes take that travelling because of its smaller
size, the R8 is my preference.
I also have the dreaded 28-70 and agree with Eastland that it is
beautifully made and very sharp. The problem with it is that there
is quite a large amount of distortion at both ends of the zoom
range and for that reason alone the 35-70 is a better bet,
particularly as they are the same price.
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Richard. The answer is no. Both my collapsible Summicron
and Elmar are the same. The focus mark is way off centre but
both focus perfectly.
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No. I have both the R7 and R8 and all my lenses are 3 cam
except for the 28-70 zoom.
That's the only benefit (to me ) of the ROM as it automatically
zooms the flash head. Otherwise all my lenses are fine with
both cameras although, of course, you will need the SCA 3501 or
3502 module for the R8, depending on which Metz flash you plan
to use. The 3501 is what I use with a 40MZ-2 but for the 54MZ-3
you will need the 3502. Either flash can be used on the R7 with
the 351 module.
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My Metz 40MZ-2 has taken to going off at random when on my R8
(yes, the R8 is an early model). I am not sure what triggers it, but
it seems to occur when I move the flash head into bounce
position or adjust the angle or even just move the camera
quickly. The flash is fine on the R7.
Anyone else had this problem with an R8?
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I find the advantage of ROM to be only with the zooms when
using flash. Otherwise all my older lenses are fine on the R8. I
have not heard of the vignetting characteristics being a factor in
matrix metering, but maybe that is so. It hasn't been a problem
for me with a non ROM 24 and 28.
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Kindermann without a doubt.
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Have there been any improvements in the latest Summicron
50mm R lens other than the ROM contacts which might justify
changing from a 20 year old lens? I understand the optical
formula has not changed but perhaps the coating has or maybe
some other tweaking has been done.
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I use the Leica SF20 flashgun mounted on an aftermarket "hot
shoe" which slips into the cold shoe of my 111F and connects to
the camera's flash synch socket with an attached synch cord.
These gadgets are inexpensive and mine works perfectly.
Any flashgun with a standard cord will be fine. I just like the size
and weight of the SF 20.
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A dumb question perhaps, but do the VC screwmount lenses,
when used with the converter on a Leica M bring up the
appropriate viewfinder frames?
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I have the 2nd version 28-70 since it was released and like it.
Jay tends to disparage this lens because it is designed and
made in Japan and supposedly has inferior build quality. The
lens feels like a Leica lens should and ought to because it
shares the same barrel as the 35-70. Transparencies are
identical in colour rendition to my prime lenses and I have done
side by side comparisons many times. It has more elements
than the 35-70 so perhaps is more prone to flare, but I can't say I
have experienced any problem in this regard.
<p>
If edge sections of slides are projected really big it is possible to
detect a loss of detail compared with the primes, but it is
indistinguishable in normal use. I have read a lot of criticism of
this zoom on this site, to the extent that I have considered
ditching it and getting the 35-70 but whenever I think it through
and run yet another comparison with my prime lenses, I cannot
see what the critics are talking about. Meanwhile it is a great
travel lens where the extra coverage of the 28 is really of value
compared to the 35-70.
<p>
As to the Japanese connection, it is interesting that the
engraving on the barrel reads "Designed by Leica Camera.
Mfgd. in Japan.
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Luther - Your kind words are appreciated. Many thanks.
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John - sounds like Blacks have put you off slides. If you are in
Toronto have you tried Steichenlab? They are excellent, with two
hour processing, but they likely are more expensive than Blacks.
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Kronik - this is a perennial problem with projection, especially if
slides are not glass mounted for absolute flatness. Also, your
projector should be absolutely aligned with the flattest screen
you can find. Make sure the lens projector is at a height which
brings the lens at the midway point of the screen and is not
angled up or down or from right to left. There is very little depth of
field. Any "keystoning" of the projected image means you do not
have the projector parallel and you will never get an all over
sharp image, even with glass mounts. As to the curved field
lens, it does make a big difference on most slides not in glass,
but it is not a perfect solution as not all slides have identical
curvature. The CF lens is worth having though if most of your
slides will be in cardboard or plastic mounts. Hope this helps.
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I have recently acquired an Epson2450 and I am delighted with
the performance. It too is in the $450 range.
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With respect to Luther, you only need to set your shutter speed
dial to X when using non SCA flashes, which the Metz 45CL is. If
you have an SCA flash with appropriate module (3501 for earlier
series or 3502 for current series flashes) you do not need to set
the dial to X. The camera will do it for you as explained in my
earlier answer. I use a Metz 40MZ2 with 3501 on my R8 and
have never used the X setting.
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Alex- the F mode is for for metering flash exposure to determine
correct flash settings (instead of using a separate flash meter) I
find I rarely use it. When the camera and flash are both switched
on you can use A or P setting without regard to the shutter speed
dial as the camera will set 1/250 automatically. For the most
comprehensive automation of the flash, you will probably find P
works best. In T mode, if you select a shutter speed longer than
1/250 this is the speed the camera will use. If a speed above
1/250 is set, the camera will default to 1/250. It will not let you
set a shorter speed than 1/250.
<p>
The whole business of flash with the R* is a little confusing at
first, but works extremely well. If you do not have the R8 manual,
where the flash functions are explained, you will find them
covered well in Jonathan Eastland's book on the R8. I hope this
is helpful. Good Luck.
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Oops! Should engage my brain when reading, I see you live in
Texas Pam. Over to the US contributors.......
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I am sure you will get several recommendations from people in
the US and elsewhere, since where you live may determine
where you want to go for service. You probably don't want to be
shipping out of country if you can avoid it. As a Canadian
resident, I highly recommend Kindermann Canada in Toronto.
They still service screwmount Leicas and have a great stock of
parts for them. Gerry Smith, their technician, is first class. I
recently had a 111F serviced there and their prices are still very
reasonable.
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Just received my 111f back from Kindermann after CLA and it
feels like new. In its absence, I bought a Voigtlander 50mm
brightline finder since everyone knows the 111F finder is on the
squinty side. I was surprised to find that the 111F finder shows
a good deal more than the Voigtlander. Perhaps the 111F finder
is 100% whereas the Voigtlander shows about the same field as
my R8 finder. Anyone know the actual field shown by these two
finders.? I will do my own hands on test by taking photographs
of course, but am interested to know if anyone else has
experience with the Voigtlander finder.
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PD- I recommend joining the LHSA whose magazine
"Viewfinder" is a very well produced enthusiasts' publication. For
a book on the M6TTL, I would suggest Jonathan Eastland's book
which can be had from many bookstores, including Finger Lakes
Books who have a large range of photography books and a
website. Amazon will have it also.
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Rollei 35. Dropped on pavement long ago and suffering a
massive ding, but still capable of great pictures. Also a 111F,
but now at Kindermann for CLA, thus maybe moving out of the
beater class. Finally a Voigtlander Vito 111 folder with the great
Ultron f2 lens. This one acquired used for sentimental reasons.
I had one new in 1953, but sold it many years ago and regretted
it.
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Yes, there are differences in the color of coatings on otherwise
identical lenses. I have two 50mm Summicron Rs, one has a
magenta/brown reflection and the other a deep royal blue. Both
are mid 80s vintage. There is no discernible difference in
photographs. I did ask on this thread some time ago if anyone
had any info on what the reason for such differences might be,
but no one had an answer. Presumably Leitz (as then was) had
their reasons other than running out of raw material for one or
the other!
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Jay is too hard on the 28-70. I have not used the new 35-70 so
can't speak to a comparison, but I do own the 28-70 and use it a
lot. Resolution and contrast are excellent and transparencies
show identical color rendition with my other Leica lenses.
<p>
I have not used it for critical work, but I can say that in all normal
circumstances there is no "notable distortion". The extra reach
of the 28 end makes this an ideal travel lens IMO.
Leica-R faults - am I unique??
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
Another satisfied R user. I have had four R bodies- an RE, two
R7s and an R8. No problems whatever except my first R7 which
had dust in the finder right out of the box. The dealer exchanged
it for another without demur. Since then absolutely no trouble,
even with the R8 which is an early model.