david_haardt2

<p>Hi Michael,</p>

<p>Thank you for your response. I believe you are right - I just found https://www.flickr.com/groups/n8008/discuss/72157628092320999/ at the same moment as I received the notification about your answer. That is comforting. I will put in some film tonight, then I will know for sure...</p>

<p>Is it somehow weird that it feels exciting to shoot analog again? Somehow I can feel this excitement, this feeling of not knowing what the shots will turn out like until I get the film developed... weird! ^^</p>

<p>Also, I was pretty shocked that our local photo store only carries three makes of film these days - Fuji Superia 200, Fuji Velvia 100, and Fuji Provia 100. Fortunately I saw on Amazon that more makes of film are still being produced. (Or at least sold!)</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>David</p>

<p>Hey guys,<br>

<br /> After a looong time in the digital world, I've decided to give analog photography a try again. Unfortunately the control wheel on my F-301 broke off immediately, so I got a used F-801s in truly excellent condition from a local seller...<br>

<br /> But now I have a really dumb question about that camera: I put my 50/1.8 Nikkor Ai-S on it, selected M as the focusing mode on the camera body, and M (or, later, A) as the exposure mode using the control wheel. I didn't put any film into the camera yet. Before the shutter is released, one can hear a "motoric" sound that lasts about one second. Interestingly, when firing the shutter several times, that sound appears only before the first shutter release, not afterwards - but when switching off and on the camera, that sound can be heard again before the first shutter release. So my question: what is this sound? Can't be film transport, since that sound should be after, not before the shutter release. But is that really the camera's AF sound? I did select M as the focusing mode on the camera body, so I thought that the focusing motor would be switched off in that situation...<br>

<br /> (Interestingly, whether or not the sound appears doesn't seem to be related to whether or not I have focused "correctly", in relation to what is shown in the lower left of the viewfinder display.)<br>

Any pointers would be appreciated ;)<br>

Cheers,<br>

David</p>

<p>About the forward and backward buttons: both of them make a sound. The forward button does not seem to cause any action, neither in the slide arms nor in the small metal "feet" that move the magazines. The backward button, however, does move those metal "feet" (it causes the front feet on both sides to move upwards and the rear feet on both sides to move downwards), but not the slide arms. This is true regardless of whether I use the buttons on the projector or the buttons on the remote control.<br>

David</p>

<p>Hi Ferdi,<br>

I found the washer. I also realized that one of the heat protection filters had come out of its metal frame and fixed it.<br>

As for the arms: the black wheel on the top of the projector does not turn all around. It turns from the hole in the 4 o'clock position to the 8 o'clock position. At the 6 o'clock position the light channel is free whereas at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions it is almost closed. When going through this process the arms move a little, but only very little (about 3mm or 1/8 of an inch). The two "carts" on the top of the projector which actuate the movement of the arms only move about 1/14 (very rough estimate) of their total travel. However, this may be perfectly normal -- maybe only the button at the back of the projector can move out the arms all the way. I will now reassemble the projector and see whether anything has changed. (Unlikely but my only hope at the moment.)<br>

Here are a few photos that I made that illustrate what's (not) going on: http://haardt.net/rollei-p11-problem.jpg<br>

Cheers,<br>

David</p>

<p>Hi Ferdi,<br>

Thank you very much for your suggestion! Unfortunately it didn't help; the arms are still stuck. I then took off the top cover and, at the first glance, wasn't able to see anything that may cause the problem. Unfortunately I also made the mistake of unscrewing the two screws underneath the top cover, next to the focusing button and the top cover opening button -- and a washer now disappeared somewhere inside. Might become a long evening...<br>

Cheers,<br>

David</p>

<p>Good afternoon,<br>

I have a Rollei P11 dual format slide projector and can't get it to work. The fan and the lamp work, but I cannot get the arms that pull in the slides to slide out. I know from the manual that I have to press the second button from the left to slide the arms out, and there is a low-volume deep buzzing sound when I press that button, but the arms remain in the retracted position. Any ideas as to what could be the problem? Do you think I will be able to fix this problem or should I consider the projector a writeoff? I would be grateful for any advice you may have.<br>

Best wishes,<br>

David</p>

Hello folks,

<p>

I always get a message by the mailer demon that the e-mail address of Custom Photo Services (jkh@wsunix.wsu.edu) given at their web site (http://www.customphotos.com/cps.htm) doesn't exist.

<p>

Does anybody know how I can contact them electronically? I'm in Austria and would like to have a cheaper option than phone.

<p>

Or could you recommend to me a large format lab of similar quality and price somewhere in the world which has a working e-mail address? I would need sepia toned prints sized 11x14" from 4x5" B/W negatives. Hand work with dodging, burning, etc., is necessary.

<p>

Cheers,

Dear Jim,

<p>

Well, I did already shoot my whole Scotland trip with it because I

received it directly before I went there ;-)

<p>

Here a Scotland shot: http://home.pages.at/haardt/lfgallery/duart.htm

<p>

I meant the predicted lifetime from now on - as it is obviously

working quite well at all speeds (no visible problems with exposure)

I would suppose that technically, its predicted lifetime from now on

will be >0 ;-)

<p>

Thank you, Mr Grimes. That was exactly what I wanted to know ;-)

<p>

Cheers,

Dear Adriane,

<p>

Technically (according to the German Industry Norms DIN), anything

larger than 35mm (24x36mm) and smaller than 9x12 (90x120mm) is medium

format. This also implies that 6x17 is still medium format.

<p>

Practically, most people understand medium format as roll film, and

large format as sheet film.

<p>

Cheers,

Dear David,

<p>

Technically (according to the German Industry Norms DIN), anything

larger than 35mm (24x36mm) and smaller than 9x12 (90x120mm) is medium

format. This also implies that 6x17 is still medium format.

<p>

Practically, most people understand medium format as roll film, and

large format as sheet film.

<p>

Cheers,

I would love to post in a forum where people help each other.

Arrogant and ignorant posting such as the one from Bob shouldn't have

a place here.

<p>

We shouldn't go into useless theoretical debates about perspective -

fact is that both the Canon and Nikon web sites write

of "manipulating perspective" or "perspective control" when they talk

about their Shift-Tilt lenses thus we can assume that somebody in

the "beginner" section of this forum will mean - exactly that.

<p>

It was so increadibly obvious that I could cry. Sorry Bob, but you

should better refrain from posting if you just want to provoke.

<p>

To Pancho: The Toyo web site somebody did quote gives you a basic

idea of the movements possible. In short: If you shift a lens, you

move it along the film plane, which simulates being several meters

above/below/left/right of your actual camera position. If you tilt a

lens, you change the plane of sharpness - normally a plane parallel

to the film plane is focused onto, but if you tilt the lens, then a

plane parallel to the front lens is focused onto.

<p>

Cheers,

Alzheimer... What I just forgot: A nylon stocking (adjustable

depending on the amount you strech it, and how dense the material is)

or blowing onto the front lens right before shooting (to create

condensation) or scratching an old UV filter or using Vaseline® are

the cheapest ways - and some of the most useful ones. David Hamilton

got famous with them. Sometimes you don't need to spend heaps of

money to get nice results.

<p>

If you decide to go with a screw-in filter, be sure to buy the right

filter size (given in mm, written onto the filter thread of your

lens), and be aware that at wide-angle setting (e.g. 28mm) your lens

might vignette with a filter on it, which means that the corners of

your image might be darkened a bit. This might be critical if you

shoot high-quality transparencies. You will also probably be having

problems in using your "perfect hood" lens shade with a filter

screwed in.

<p>

Cheers,

Hello,

<p>

Be sure to take some test photos in the shop before buying, if

possible. Bad (mostly cheap) soft filters often just make the image

look unsharp, as if the photographer couldn't focus. The undisputedly

best soft filters are the Zeiss Softar ones, but they cost almost

half as much as your zoom lens. You probably have to find a usable

compromise which fits your budget, your level of photography, and

your taste. Good soft filters keep the actual image sharp while

producing a glowing unsharpness around the object edges. Thus such

filters are difficult to develop and produce, and most of them are

actually just - crap.

<p>

Cheers,

Hello folks,

<p>

I've got an age old question, but due to not knowing the answer, I have to pose it: How shall I store my lens's shutter to maximise its predicted lifetime (as far as the springs are concerned)?

<p>

I have the Rodenstock Optar 4.5/135 in a Graflex 1000 2A shutter (the standard combination of the Graflex 45 Super Speed Graphic featuring a 1/1000 sec time), thus there are 1/1000-1/2, B, and 0 (a special setting which is to be used for depth-of-field preview).

<p>

Cheers,

Note: I took this answer from graflex.org - it of course works, but

just that you know that it's not my own text.

<p>

---

<p>

Advance the the counter by winding until you get past 12. You'll

notice that the counter stops moving.

<p>

Now turn the holder upside down and look at the inside top, you'll

see an arrow on the left side. Load the film, thread the leader to

the take up spool and wind the film until the arrows on the leader

match the arrow on the holder. Close it holder.

<p>

Move the counter dial by hand one notch. This engages the knob winder

again. the index point should be in the middle of the arrow on the

counter.

<p>

Wind the film with the knob (or lever) until it reaches one. It

should stop at this point.

<p>

Mount the holder on the camera, remove the darkslide, expose the

film, replace the darkslide.

<p>

Now mover the Chrome lever on top to the left. advance the knob until

it stops at the next exposure.

<p>

Occassionally these holders suffer from poor advancing and can

overlap exposures. Try to find some out dated film from somebody that

is effectively useless to take pictures.

Load this roll with the darkslide open and mark the frame of the

insert on the film with a sharpie (trace the frame on the film) Then

move to the next, trace, advance, trace, etc.

<p>

The remove the film and check how well it advances. This can save a

lot of tears and frustration out in the field.

I'd say that as long as there are several large format enthusiasts

all over the world, there will be manufacturers. Even if the huge

companies should ever stop production, there will be some specialist

manufacturer/s like e.g. efke or Forte. And if all that should fail,

I will also spray liquid emulsion onto glass.

<p>

Cheers,

Hello folks,

<p>

I bought Agfa Agefix, and in error I diluted a new fixer solution for each stack of films I developed together. Now I would like to reuse it as intended by Agfa. On the Agfa web site there is a maximum yield given (if you convert it, about 77 sheets of 4x5" film), and there are replenishment rates given. My question: Is this maximum yield without replenishment or with replenishment? How do I replenish exactly? Unfortunately I don't have a silver test strip so far.

<p>

Here four of my first Scotland images I developed so far:

http://haardt.net/sco1.jpg

http://haardt.net/sco2.jpg

http://haardt.net/sco3.jpg

http://haardt.net/sco4.jpg

<p>

Thank you in advance for your help!

<p>

Cheers

-David

Here's the second one:

<p>

http://haardt.net/gf2_gesamt.jpg

<p>

And a detail of the second one:

<p>

http://haardt.net/gf2_ausschnitt.jpg

<p>

I like the bokeh in this picture very much.

Hello folks,

<p>

Today I shot my first sheet film (4x5") photo ever. I did already shoot roll film and Polaroids with my large format camera, but today I did *it*. It was also the first film ever I developed on my own.

<p>

Camera: Graflex 45 Super Speed Graphic

Lens: Graflex (Rodenstock) Optar 4.5/135

Shutter: Graflex 1000 Nr. 2A

Film: Classic Pan 400 (don't know which emulsion this actually is, it's a very inexpensive film from fotoimpex.de)

Exposure meter: Weston Master V with my hand as a grey card (+1 stop)

Exposure time: 1/2 sec.

Diaphragm setting: f/16

Filter: none

Berlebach 7003 wooden tripod with FLM/Statec 32F ball head and cable release

Developer: Agfa Rodinal (1+25; 7.5 mins.)

Fixer: Agfa Agefix (1+5)

Wetting agent: Agfa Agepon (1+200)

<p>

Here's the result, scanned directly from the negative (about 8x enlarged) at 1200dpi and the resized with Agfa 1240UT:

<p>

http://haardt.net/gf1_gesamt.jpg

<p>

And here's a detail (scanned at 1200dpi and not resized):

<p>

http://haardt.net/gf1_ausschnitt.jpg

<p>

You can read the distance scale on the camera's lens (this is a FED-1e Soviet rangefinder camera from 1946), you can read all the book titles and numbers, and you can read which model this rather ancient CD player is. Great ;-) I was really fascinated by the detail large format offers (still a huge improvement over 6x9), and I was very happy that developing was rather easy and much fun. I loaded and unloaded the film in my changing bag, but dust wasn't such an issue. I have yet to develop a better washing technique, because despite the use of a wetting agent, there are some slight streaks of water on the negative.

<p>

Yeah, large format is FANTASTIC ;-)

<p>

Cheers,

To be even more exact, a 35mm negative is 24x36mm large (~

0.94x1.42") thus has a size of 864 square millimetres. A 4x5"

negative is 4x5" (102x127mm) large, thus has 12954 square

millimeters. A 8x10" negative is 8x10" (203x254mm) large, thus has

51562 square millimeters. So a 4x5" negative is approximately 14.99x

as large as a 35mm negative, a 8x10" approximately 59.68x. So 15x and

60x as good figures to have in mind ;-)

<p>

Cheers,

I am particularly interested in the Jobo drum 3063, because on the

Jobo web site it says that most of the smaller tanks can be used

manually, but this one is for processors only, and I wanted to know

whether this is based upon facts or not. It would also be interesting

how the interior of the drum is made to know which problems could

occur.

<p>

Best regards,

Dear Jon,

<p>

I can recommend the Acer 1240UT. It is cheap, but it does very well

what it can. It is basically a 1200dpi (optical) flatbed scanner with

built-in transparency device for up to 5x7". So you could scan a 4x5"

transparency/negative with optical 4800x6000 pixels. Its U.S. price

is about 100-120 dollars only.

<p>

Best regards,

Hello folks,

<p>

I wondered whether one can process b/w paper in Jobo drums. There is a Jobo drum which can accomodate papers up to 50x60cm (20x24") so that would be rather nice. You only need 300ml of chemicals. But the Jobo web site says that this tank is only for processors, and for colour prints. So my two questions: Can I use it for b/w prints too? (Are there any disadvantages?) Can I use it by rolling it on my desk too, or do I really need a processor? (The Jobo web site says that the smaller drums can be used manually too, but this large one not.)

<p>

Best regards,

What I would like to add to my initial posting:

<p>

I also thought of keeping (or even mounting and leaving it there

until I need it) a Packard shutter as a never-die back-up. I thought

the one with 1.75" opening hole (3.5x3.5" overall dimensions) would

fit well.

<p>

Cheers,

Hello folks,

<p>

As shutters are the most likely thing in LF photography to let you down when you really need them, I am a bit concerned about the average life of a mechanical spring shutter.

<p>

I own a Graflex (Rodenstock) Optar 4.5/135 mounted into a Graflex 1000 2A shutter (the Super Speed Graphic lens/shutter combination). All the shutter times sound different, the longer ones sound reasonable (I would never claim to be able to tell whether the short ones sound reasonable), and I didn't have any exposure problems so far, so I assume that at the moment it is fully working.

<p>

Are there any signs I should watch out for to notify of a degrading shutter? Is there any sort of maintenance I should do to it? If yes, do you know any able repair store in Germany/Austria?

<p>

Are the other ones among you who only own one lens as concerned as me too, that their shutter will let them down some day when they are on an important trip/shooting? Of course I am only an amateur, but nevertheless I would like to be able to shoot without any afterthoughts ;-)

<p>

Best regards,